nismothunder

Do you have a heavy foot,If I put my foot to the floor in my 95 it would bounce off the rev limiter(6500) before shifting...

Look on the front of the rad,there should be two coolers,one is the AC condenser and the other is the aftermarket cooler...if theres only one then they didnt install one(unless your pathy doesnt have AC)

Could it be the termosatate sticking,thats one of the things that killed my f150...It was sticking and no heat was coming out of the lines,we would have to pull over and pound on the dash until it unstuck(some reason that always worked) and then have it on full blast until it cooled back down...but then it would close again...

I think he has 4.37 gears...I dont think going to 31s will affect the rpms that much,since in fact he should be going 85-90 mph if he didnt reset the speedo when he went to bigger tires,I mean 80mph at 2700 rpm is really good,in any truck..., hell in my 150 80 is 2100,but my rear end is ether 3.55 of 3.73...

ok...so I have the 4.6 gear ratio and its at 2900-3000,I would say that bigger tires affect mpg(you should get better mpg if your going steady,wosre if its stop and go) If you have 4.3s you should get better mpg going 70,since the rear end isnt spinning as much...

The rod gooses through a hole on a tab on the handle and theres a little rubbery band thing that keeps the rod in the hole...

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH no...can not help...but maybe hit up GG,I'm sure he would help you out... Unless your the guy who started the forum I believe your on ya own...Know get collecting pop cans on the side off the road and you'll have anuff in about 212 years...(give or take a decade) Well I donated my ...hoped ya liked it and you put it to good use...

Hey now^...

Your still keeping the filter thats in the tranny right?If not wont there be fluid pick up problems?

Well if your running any thing thicker then 5w-30 then thats your problem...(and a old starter and or dieing battery) The thiner the oil then the easyer it is to turn the engine over and faster you get the oil up to temp... on a side note my 86 c-vic winter beater would only start if it was plugged in for 3 + hours...it was not a too cold engine problem...it was simply time to replace every wire between the dizzy the block...I replaced the plug wires(no efect) replaced the wires that run to the coil...bingo that was the problem...Simply go out at night,open the hood and have somebuddy crank the engine...you should see lighten in a bottle from the bad wires...that should take care of your problem...(if the engine is turning over fine but not catching...)If the engine is turning over slowly,clean the battery temmanal and see if that helps,if it doesnt change to 5w-30(or evan 5w-20) and see if that helps... You can also help your engine by blocking off some of the radiator to help keep heat in and by putting insulation(the shiny reflextive stuff) on the bottom of the hood to help keep heat in longer after you shut the engine off...

there should be no reason for the solders to get that hot,if they get that hot the pathy will be on fire...

agreed,dont use crimp connectors,solder them together,... Yep the amps are in the rear,under the widows,yes you cut the ecu...

I belive the last Q is your mirror control...is there a little flat switch under it...?If so then that is what it is... The tire Q is,your turning to hard and getting tire spin...to solve this,turn turn so hard(sometimes this is hard to do) or just replace the rear tires with used ones that you picked up for cheap and dont worry about it...

Do you still have the two piece axle shafts?My 95 doesnt,and I believe the 2 piece axles where only a 87 2 wheel drive thing?I maybe wrong though...Look at the amsoil site,they have greases for everything...

^ six buck filter,I get fram(Some people dont like...I never had a problem,but I never left them on more then a month),super tech and Ac delco...the super tech and Ac delco look just like wix and have about half the price...

Theres some truth to what your saying,back when syn oil was first coming out people where having trouble becauses the valve guides where made to accept leaded gas,so they where softer then they are to day,and the oil was so full of ditergents it was wearing the valve guides so much in such little time that the cars where smoking badly by the time for another oil change.It is not true to day,the modern cars run on unleaded and last longer then ever before(at least they should...) But if the engine is a higher milage engine that was never care for then yeah,changing to syn oil mayproduce oil burn off and leaking gaskets,only because the leaks where already there and over time sludge(and carbon) had built up around them,inefect blocking the leak.If its a old engine,or higher miles on it and never had syn oil in it I wouldnt change over from conventail,since the cars been run just fine on dino bones for a long time,and it has provided fine protection. Now if you buy a old car or truck and have the engine rebuilt(or rebuilt yourself) then it would be great to run syn oil right off the bat,(after break in on proper grade oil) Syn oil provides less burn off,so if your thinking about going to dino bone oil since your engine that was run its entire life on syn oil,dont,since the oil will burn more rapidly then with syn oil...The only true fix for a smoking engine is a rebuild,But going to a thicker grade(5w-30vs15w-40) oil will produce less burn(plus boost compression a bit in case of worn rings) off then a standerd economy oil... But this has its own draw backs,more cylinder wear and the canch of spining a bearing if you just hope in and take off in cold weather...Not to mention that it is a little more diffrentcault to start in cold weather.

Should be one the 3rd already...for about 10005 miles or so...

You could also use a pintle hitch mount to the rear bumper and take the winch on and off when you want,but this greatly depends on the metal used in making the hitch and on rear bumper reinforcement...

The Simply fix...get one...the not so simply... You need to modify mine using a peice of...oh 1/8 inch thick squire tube thats about 18 inchs long,you mount that on the main plug(where you plug it nto the hitch)You then weld a piece of steel on each side(the leath of the big frame cross over in the front,I dont know the measure ments are off the top of my head)you then drill a hole oneach side so you can tread a big mother of a bolt in thereand lug it done,wire and then you have a wince on the front that can also be mounted on the rear. Note,I made all these...ideas on the spot so I dont know how well they would work or if its even fesable since it would eat up ground clearance to the point where you could drive over a curb with out getting hung up...unless you truck is sas'ed and has 35+ inch tires...

I'm not...It works just fine with a harbor freight 10k winch and is made out of 1/8 angle iron...

Well osr I'm way ahead of you...I have made my own and it conects to the frame using a signal bolt...and I'm able to switch it from truck to truck in about 10 minutes...beat that...

I indeed think he needs to change that...and then maybe some custom tire deflators so he can get the better mpg from less windresistence...

I'll go out on a limb and say its a spectre intake and spectre washable air filter...But I'm not positive though...