k9sar

yea, but imagine how much a shop would charge to do it

ball joints are fairly cheap and, if you have a seperator (or a big hammer) are fairly easy to replace.

this has been addressed as to a possible problem in the wiring harness

here

on my 95, if not in 4WD, the front drive shafts are still.

before dumping money intoa new starter, make sure you have the voltage getting to it. could be the ignition switch, a relay, or even a bad connection in a wiring harness. Your starter should have a 12V hot (big-ass wire) and you should be able to measure 12V on your solenoid connector when you turn the key to start. read this. It seems to be more and more common.

I'll second that. Caught my carpet on fire last summer

let us know which (if any or all) of the methods work. 88 had the instructions posted on his site but that got hacked and is no more. I thought I had the instructions in my FSM but couldn't quickly find them so I grabbed posts from one of my other forums. Can't guarantee which will work but people have reported success with each. Good luck.

use the search. Several of us have installed JGC springs and did writeups about it. I think I even included pictures. hmmm... let's see... you will need to deal with the pigtails. I cut mine off. I think 88 heated his and bent them out. Personally, I don't like to heat springs. Kinda F's with their ability to spring but if you keep the heat on just the pigtail, you should be ok. One benefit of doing it that way is that you will probably be able to shape it to taper to the previous coil and have a nice seat in the boot where if you cut them, it won't seat great. I got a good amount of list using .56 coils so you should get 3" easy. here's my pics a thread the writeup that should cover you.

another: 1. Slide the driver's seat back as far as it will go. 2. Pull up the carpet under the seat to expose the remote box. 3. On the top-center of the box, there is a button. Push and hold it for about three seconds. The alarm will burp and squeal and then beep once a second. 4. While the alarm is beeping, push the lock/unlock button on your key fob. The alarm should beep, acknowledging the acceptance of your remote. 5. If you have another remote to program, push the lock/unlock button on that key fob. 6. When your finished, put the key in the ignition, turn it to ON, and turn it off and remove it. 7. Try it out...it should now work! Good luck

another reported method: Get in the vehicle. Close and lock all doors utilizing the driver's power-door lock/unlock switch. Insert and remove the ignition key more than six times within a 10-second period (at a rate of one insertion/removal cycle per second). Don't rush the process, and be sure the key is completely withdrawn from the ignition-key cylinder each time it's removed. Turn the ignition to the ACC position and press any button on the remote one time. The hazard lights should flash twice, letting you know your mission is a success. If you were going to program more than one remote, you'd simply unlock and lock the doors once again with the driver's switch and press the one button, one time, on the second remote. The procedure is completed by turning the ignition off, unlocking with the driver's switch, and opening the driver's door.

Set-up: Key out of ignition and driver's door open & unlocked & passenger's door closed and locked. Procedure: 1. Insert key in ignition and remove. 2. Press the driver's MANUAL door lock switch, LOCK to UNLOCK, 5 times. 3. Close and open the driver's door. 4. Press the driver's MANUAL door lock switch, LOCK to UNLOCK, 5 times. 5. Insert key in ignition and turn ignition ON and OFF... Once to add a new code. Twice to rewrite over ALL previously stored codes. Three times to confrim how many codes are stored in the ECU. 6. Remove teh key from ignition. The car will now respond back the selected mode by automatically locking and unlocking the doors... once to add a new code. twice to rewrite over all previously stored codes. one to four times (slowly) to show how many codes have been stored. If the confirm mode was selected the process is complete. Otherewise: 7. Press the transmitter switch on the key for 1 second. After the signal is received, the car will respond by automatically locking and unlocking the doors once. 8) Close & Open driver door 9) Press transmitter switch on the remote for more than 1 second

yes, it is possible to program your own remote and you can get them on ebay fairly cheap (20ish?) (search for G57NTX318) I forget the procedure but I'm sure it's here in the forums someplace.

a bit far for me too... like 2900 miles or so.

Glad to hear you're making a rebound Marcel. Your skids have saved my butt more than once so far. If you need any info on WD21 applications (including things that I had to do for installation), just let me know. Scott

header's back obviously

I like that the icon showing new posts actually indicates if you have posted in that thread already. Good for those "hi, I'm new" threads. I don't need to open them and discover that I already whored a post to the thread

once it's nice and clean, it should be obvious if there is any excessive wear

I don't think test 4 indicates any codes unless your CEL is on. 55 means 'no codes'. You may need to look at the other tests though I'm not sure which one. If the RPM's are fluctuating and teh car isn't, could be tranny clutch slippage. AT or MT?

I think ball joints were like 50 bucks or so and a c-link runs about 125. for 1100, they better be providing a big 'ol jar of vaseline as well.

I cut my connector out and just soldered in replacement wires for my FL. My battery had leaked and dissolved it. read here

sounds like you have bypassed the ignition circuit when you installed the starter. Check to make sure you did not reverse the wires on the starter (though I think that's impossible) Also, there is a chance that the starter solenoid is f'd and throwing constant 12V to the starter but if it was new, you wouldn't expect that. The starter has basically 2 wires, a constant hot and a hot via ignition circuit. The solenoid is so you don't fry your ignition switch. When you turn your key, you throw 12v to the solenoid on the starter. This is through a connector and not the big red wire (which is why I don't think you crossed them). The 12V to the solenoid throws a switch and connects the constant hot (big red wire) so the starter cranks the engine. Try disconnecting the connector on the solenoid. If it still cranks, your starter is bad (the solenoid switch is thrown all the time). Also, check the voltage on your connector to make sure that you only have 12V when the ignition switch is turned on. If it's constant 12V, I would think a faulty ignition switch.

inside the latch mechanism on the door. When you close it, the D-shaped ring is not only grabbed by the latch mechanism but it pushes up a rubber switch inside the latch. Open the door, throw some light up inside the latch and poke a little with a screwdriver. You'll find a rubber wedge shaped thingie that moves. That's it. I believe you can get at the wiring from inside if you pull the panel but I've never been there.