k9sar

...and his wife gets lonely

I have... but only at the u-pull-it yard

if I recall correctly, the 'bolts' that hold the shroud are actually like little lag bolts that go into the radiator frame. All torque specs should be in the FSM which can be found here somewhere by searching. If you can't find it, I'm sure someone will point you in the right direction. I'm at work curretnly so I don't have access to mine.

I pulled my rods out and drilled (from the back) another 3/16 or so. If you poke around, you will find that there is a lot of room to take the hole deeper and still retian the rod by its little nub. The spring is more than adequate to push the rod out even with the deeper hole. From my other post: 1. Took steering wheel off to gain access to the 'brushes' that make the connection to the back of hte steering wheel. These are spring-loaded copper or brass rods that had worn down to the point where they did not make good contact anymore (there are 3, 2 for he cruise control and 1 for the horn). I pondered extending the existing rods by brazing a piece on or reshaping them with a hammer but I decided on a much simpler solution. I removed the back plate that allowed me to drop the roda and springs out of the housing (that also holds the wiper and headlight levers). Turns out that the holes are just slightly bigger than 3/16" and the rods have a bit of a flair on them at the spring end. About halfway through the plastic, the holes narrow to just under 3/16" which gives a lip to retain the rods so the springs don't shoot them out in your face when you remove the steering wheel (ok, they aren't THAT strong). I took a 13/64" drill and ran it into the holes from the back and continued past the 'lip' for another 3/16" or so in depth. This gave the rods further room to travel to make contact with the back of the steering wheel. Put it all back together and all three functions work fine.

definately a second on the recheck after a week or so of driving. Haven't had a problem yet but it only takes once.

if teh cam seals are leaking, replace them. Grab some from the local store (shouldn't be very expensive) and you can return them if you don't need them. If it ain't leaking, don't f*k with it.

Good luck. One thing I might suggest it to take your starter to the local parts-whore and compare it to what they have (hopefully they have both versions). Starters are fairly simple mechanisms so if the mounting lines up and it looks close, it'll probbaly be ok. Or, tear yours apart and clean the crap outta it and see if that fixes the problem. Oil, carbon dust, etc can get on the contacts, screw with the commutator,etc.

ummm... I use needle nose pliers and an adjustable wrench. Shouldn't be so tight that you need a socket for it.

Not on my pathy but I have seen on other vehicles where a metal clamp that holds flex brake lines actually started to rust and, as it did, constricted on the brake line and kept the fluid from flowing well. The problem was characterized by the brakes wearing badly and the vehicle pulling. The crimp point actually started to act like a 1-way valve. You could force fluid through and put pressure on the brakes but the pressure would not release when you took your foot off the pedal.

me too

biggest problem was that I had to hold the headers in place and try to get the bolts started where, if you use studs, you can slip the manifold on and then worry about the nuts. One of the pro's was that, by not having studs sticking out, there was more room to maneuver the headers to get them into place.

I scrapped the idea of studs when I installed my headers and just went with a high grade bolt and lockwasher.

plug wires in the wrong sequence would be my guess.

My belt's a dayco. no issues

parked in a snow pile that was plowed in a parking lot... just because I could

replace the studs for the exhaust with 300z ones. Search the forums for the part numbers.

holes can be temporarily fixed with cheap cookie sheets and a tube of silicone caulk. May buy you some time so the wife doesn't get sick while you look for a replacement.

Took out my idler pulley that was making horrible noises. Opened the sealed bearing and found it to be full of crap but the bearings themselves seemed to be ok. Cleaned it good with carb cleaner and it rolled nice and smooth. Smeared a little grease in the bearing and sealed it up again. RUnning much quieter now but I know it's shot. Should have a replacement from rockauto in a few days.

of the 7 matks, 15 degrees is the middle one (see Adam's post) I love seeing people chime in with suggestions but don't let it get you confused. Make a list then check them out one by one until you find the problem. don't forget to post the solution once you are back to running again so that other's may benefit from your experience

yes, it should be 15 degrees, not 5.

Check the timing. To adjust it, there's a bolt at the base of the distributor that, when loosened, will allow you to rotate the distributor to adjust the timing. For timing adjustment, get a timing light and hook to #1 sparkplug. Check the marks on the crankshaft pully. should be about 5 degrees BTDC. Someone else can chime in on how to read the marks, I don't have my FSB available at work. maybe it's 15 BTDC. Hell, I forget

My situation was that hood motion would affect how my pathy ran. The way the connector on top of the MAF was built, there was a break and intermittent connection due to the wires actually touching the hood when closed. I would hit a bump or something or there was some twisting/flexing that caused slight hood movement which would wiggle the MAF wire and it would run like crap. I rebuilt the connector so the wires come out horizontal rather than vertical and no more issue with it. Tell tale sign was that, with the hood open and engine running, I would grab the MAF wire and give some wiggle or slight tug and it would affect the running.

if there is a loud click, the solenoid is throwing. Could be f'd up contacts due to oil drippage so the starter motor never receives power when the solenoid tries to make the connection.

I would definately look at the big wire running to the starter (constant hot) and make sure there is a good 12V there. Also, as mentioned above, the starter is very prone to getting mucked up from oil leakage above it. I removed mine, disassembled it, cleaned everything and put it back together and got several more good years out of it.

I forget which head #5 is on but if it on the drivers (distributer) side, checking the timing should tell you of the crankshaft and the DS cam are out of sync. Compression test will definately reveal a bent valve but in lieu of that, do the timing check. If it is good and #5 is on the disty side, there is an issue. IF it's bad, your cam may be off a notch. You might be able to 'rent' a timing gun from a parts store liek they do tools.... buy it, use it, return it. I know Advance Auto has a program specifically to do that. Alternatively, perhaps the 'ol Walmart 30-day rental/return policy might be an option (lol)