Slick

to my knowledge all pathys came with fender flares from the factory

head bolts. allen socket 10mm little 10mm bolts at the end of each head (one on each)(i used a 10mm socket for those guys) intake 6mm allen wrench (take small wrench with you for leverage) um.. lemme think... hmmmmm.. depending if we're talking complete motor to pulling heads.... you will also need a 12mm socket..... a 14mm socket.... a flat head screwdriver.... a phillips screwdriver....... pliers or something to get clips off.... a sharp knife...... and patience. mas K9 said.. be careful how you take all that stuff off, there is an order and you can cause arpage if care is not taken. also.. do not pry the heads off with force.. you will cause damage.. be gentle.. even the most stuck heads come off with coaxing..... i am sure i'll think of more....... but that outta keep you busy for a bit. so.. breakdown: sockets: 10mm 8mm 12mm 14mm screwdrivers: phillips flat head wrenches: 10mm 12mm itty bitty tiny one for the allen wrench other: 10mm allen socket knife pliers or other for clips 6mm allen wrench (longer the better and a loose one.. not one part of a set cuz it won't fit) ratchet (obviously) extension bars (one short one long) beer -alcohol- patience :furious:

nah. i am gunna buy some larger than stock after market cams for the other motor build (the "illegal" motor sly ) so i won't be in need of any extra stock size cams (i have the ones in the purple turds heads that i did not reinstall as spares) thanks tho K9.. but i may be after those heads minus cams/valves/etc.... can i have the fuel rail sly my god wheel.. WTF? you are just NOT having a good time of this are you? if there's anything i can do let me know. almost makes all my issues seem irrelevant

well.. the best i got outta my old girl was about 15mpg in town and 18 freeway.... that's the MPI

ok. first thing you HAVE to do is take your pathy off road...... THEN and ONLY then can you say the ONLY thing you off road is your R1 (whatever that may be? a bike i assume?) you will be suprised.. as i was. hell.. i sold my jeep over this and even preferred to wheel my pathy over the jeep in the end.. and my jeep was all lifted n bad ass while my baby was stock then extremely versatile vehicles indeed. cons... hmm.. i have a 92 5 speed.... no "cons" except the IFS..... now.. my pathy and i have a love/hate relationship.. i have done an exceptional amount of motor work to mine.... and so have not yet attacked the suspension just yet.. beware that if you have no idea when your t-belt was last changed.. DO IT. every 60,000 miles religously. t-belt breaks and you'll be inna world of hurt... change the h2o pump and t'stat while you're there.. good insurance. an oil filter relocation kit will also allow you an extra 1/2 quart of oil and save you much broken knuckle action on oil changes.. also.. for more pony power and a nice rumble.. thorley headers and some 2.5" pipe runnin to a good muffler and a high flow cat sly and a K & N air filter .. VG motors love to breathe n fart good.. they run better that way most of all......... enjoy your pathy and she will teach you much :bow: mine taught me to throw spectacular temper tantrums and also how to pull a VG30E motor apart with my eyes closed with a wrench in one hand and a jack n coke in the other -alcohol-

the cases for hide-a-keys come in many varieties, but they are magnetic and you can stick them anywhere your heart desires (as long as it's onto metal) to hide it under your pathy you can even paint the little carriers they come in so you can camoflage it sly oh yeah..... i have never lost a hide-a-key yet... though i did knock one off in the ickiest mud once.. luckily i found it

i know 90-95 are 28 spline.. pre 90 are 27 spline and 95+ are 31 spline... does that help? or do i need to walk away and find myself again? lol

K9 might be able to better help you with teh lifter thing.. haven't gone into taking my heads apart yet... (check my thread as K9 gave me advice on that procedure) gasket set.. here's a linky to the one i bought... most excellent http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product372.html as for you heads.. a machine shop will be able to test them for any cracks/leaks, but you can flip a sucker upside down, (make sure surface is completely clean with no gasket left on it) take a straight edge metal ruler and lay it from corner to corner.. there is a certain size feeler gauge you stick in the center of the head (you are allowed so much of a gap there) but i can't remember what size gauge it is.. it does say in the manual.. even my haynes manual had the gap... manifolds on with heads? WTF...... noooo..... i took all the crap n doo dads off then pulled my heads..... easy peezy.... just check the untightening order like i would leave my thorleys on there to pull my heads off.. makes noooo sense to me on that one.... the less crap that's left on there the easier it is to remove heads -study-

even if you screw something up you have a spare set of heads right? sly

:cool2: i think i'll stick to my pocket being the carrier.......nobody ever calls me anyway... :sniff:

i am not 100% sure where it is located on an R50.. but try on teh LH side of the motor (driver side) on the intake.. if you don't know what it looks like i can show you a pic of mine on my wd21. it is very easy to change.. don't get charged $200 for a 5 minute job

it still weighs 50+ lbs with the tire off.. and the weight is not even which makes it a PITA best to have help n not squish the toes.. hehehe

you are by no means "in over your head".. have faith.. no.. per our conversation on the phone earlier.. you can get away with using the original valves, but they will still have to be reseated after the cam is in place.. so still in need of someone to do that for you, but definitely cheaper

let me ask you this......... WHY are you changing cams? is there a specific reason? are you upgrading? and yes, a valve job is highly recommended with a new cam. even I can't do a valve job.. though i may try to experiment on my other set of heads.... for replacing a cam, it is not a simple job of popping the valve rail n presto new cam.. there is much work that goes into it.

gasoline if left for any amount of time will eat any hoses/lines/rubber. oh yes. if you dry it quick it will do no harm.. i got my big ol brush up in there in the gas (i held the hosed end out of the gas) and cleaned away, then immediately dried it off with a rag. Sometimes the cams will not eaily rotate (they will keep "jumping") and so if they jump, you will not be able to get it lined back up without loosening the valve rail. If you can turn the cam without it jumping, more power to yah! Pulling the heads is simple really... if you have most everything else off up there it is a wise idea to just git-r-done on the head gaskets.. you don't want to get 1,000 miles down the road n blow the head gasket out.. that would royally suck fo sho. yes. when standing in front of your pathy, to your left (which is the RH side of the motor) it is 1, 3 & 5. to your right (motor LH side) is 2, 4 & 6. if you are gunna change cams, and go to alllllllll that trouble, then i would pull the heads, cuz unless you are a very experienced mechanic, someone will have to do the valve job for you thus needing the head and all.

make sure you have help getting it off cuz boy, it sure gets heavy once the bolts are out! (they weigh 75lbs with tire)

here comes slick to save the daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay!!!!!!!!! lol. kidding. ok.. pm me your address and i can mail you spare t'stat housing bolts. You can also get them at any local parts store. :contract: FYI: GASOLINE IS YOUR FRIEND. i should know.. cleaning stuff i went through 3 gallons of it. sly no need to chuck your t'stat housing... carb cleaner is also your friend. spray some down it... you'd be suprised. If you are careful not to get the hose part of the housing tube wet with gas, then gas is MUCH quicker and cleans them up nicely. don't worry about rust deposits.. the motor has been sitting for a while... hell.. my motor i turned into the purple turd had been sitting 5 years... mmm.... you will have to drain the radiator every 300-500 miles for the first 1,000 or so anyway cuz wait til you see what yer rad looks like after just 1/2 hour of running the motor... mmm.... ugly.... drop yer cam sprockets (and bolts) into a pan of gas... and clean them.. come out nice n shiney no worries on the cam.. you can simply loosen up the valve rail a little to free up some movement and put her back to TDC (just that cam if everything was TDC before).. then tighten the rail back down. you may need to loosen it again when you torque back down the sprockets on reinstall. i had the same problem. Both cams (after doing above mentioned maneuver) should be on the marks... make sure the crank is at TDC. are you pulling the heads? if so, you can check TDC (as well as checking crank marks) when #1 & 4 pistons are 'up" at the top, you know you have TDC. (See pic) If it's not.. simply put the timing pulley back on the crank and flip her over til she is. answered Q #2 alread. #3. not quite sure what you mean.... but yeah.. oh.. ok.. :idea: my light just came on.. be careful not to change the shape of the surface.. i had a itty bitty burr and i left the sucker.. had other things to do. #4 answered above... no worries #5 you can take the cams out with heads off, FYI.. while you're there i highly suggest you change the head gasket. i can hook you up with a link to parts dinasaur in AZ who i got a complete gasket overhaul set from for $113 and it arrived in 3 days. -study- Host all your pics on photobucket.... it's free, and allows LOTS of pics to be hosted. good luck, ask away, and check out my pics n posts here on my motor build: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7681 -bounce- #6

no. our local napa is pretty expensive, and when nissan said $66 + tax and 2 days i said.. JUNK YARD! -bounce-

bolts are dead easy to get out. i took mine off inna about 5 minutes. no biggie. done externally.

sssh mmm.. not in my town.. i tried everyone around before i hit up the local JY... and i hit the jackpot there........ gawd i love freebees! -bounce-

oh. and here's my broken bastige

don't use your brakes

I sent a pic of my pathy last year.... but kudos to michael for gettin his rig in there! -bounce- :cool2: my jeep got into 4wd and off road mag readers rigs couple years back

If you would have said 1 stripped out.. I would have said you could get away with it for a few days, but 2 is a bit dodgy. Your wheels will feel unbalanced, and it puts extra strain in the lugs that are still in use. I am sure there is other damage that can come from driving with 2 less lugs.. but in the end it is your decision. Unless you do something stupid your wheels will not fall off... lol. Hopefully someone else will chime in on this issue also with more info. I personally wouldn't do it with 2 stripped and useless lugs.

samne set up as above, dave got his at kragens.. like $34 or something... worked great on my pathy