Slick

not advisable at ALL on the open manifolds. at wrost run open headers....

if you are BDC as you describe by the lower timing pulley being set like the pic i shoed you.. and your cam sprockets are off.. then take the valve cover off.... loosen the rocker arm bolts, and turn your cams until they are TDC (ie: the marks are lined up).... as long as you were only a couple teeth off then this will work easily and wonderful. remember to torque back down the rocker arm once you have achieved your desired setting. oh yeah.. i did that ("that" being the rocker arm trick) AFTER.. torquing down the cam sprockets (else you'll only have to do it again in all probability) in all honesty.... you should still check with the screwdriver.... because i had my motor tore down and knew everything was TDC before fartin around.. i knew what was what in there.

i had the exo carrier when i did the swap.. and my t bars are feeling their age yet i still got 3 & 3/4" of lift...... i run rancho 5000 shocks with the JGC coils.... before and after pics..... (the stock pic was with 29" tires.. now i run 31's) just FYI... **just remember... i only gained 1/2" from taking the tire carrier off (that's about 90lbs right there)..... and i put 31's on and took the fender flares off... but you get the idea here's a link to a pic comparison i did before and after.... http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a77/Slick...=pathyafter.jpg

try having a straight pipe onna pathy...... or do you mean basically running open headers? open headers.... LOUD. deafening LOUD.

yeah. i'd point a guilty finger at H2o pump, alternator and also check your belts

for TDC there are a couple ways.... your cam sprockets should like up with the marks on the rear timing cover, and if you are like the majority of us with no mark on the lower housing, BDC can be achieved when yer timing pulley looks like this: or, as K9 said, stick a screwdriver into plug hole #1 and turn the motor. Pistons #1 & #4 should be TDC. like this

check to make sure there are no broken pins in the hinge area or that the wiring is not catching on something as you're closing the door. sit inside the truck and slowly go through the motion of closing the door and see what happens

well.. for one set of spot lights i used the factory fog light switch i already had.. i know there's a write up about it somewhere with instructions for multiple lights/switches.. somewhere in the garage in electrical whatevers lol -bounce-

no worries. just remember.. pathys like to breathe and fart....... aka: exhaust and air intake are their 2 "hot spots" for improvement and e fans.. sly hopefully my next mod... well... it's about 4th on the list

damn. imma sucker for a good poll... how'd i miss this? anyhoo.. i'll be 37 in 3 weeks.. or something like that....

the noise yer hearin is most likely the broken studs... goes away after she warms up? tapping or ticking noise? (kinda reminds you of a rod knockin) hesitation could be something as simple as a loose vaccum line or sensor... when does it hesitate? what speed/rpm range? mine ran so crappy when i put this new motor in this year i was like DAMN!! wasn't the same truck. i was amazed at just how bad my other motor was runnin.. well hell.. in the end i had a broke piston and blown head gasket... lol

what makes you think it's bottom end? i have yet to hear of a crank failure on these motors...... clues... what's goin on with her? pathys tend to make sickly, disgusting noises when it's something major or minor i've found.. mine is the queen of playing dead...... she's a bitch pssd

lay under your pathy n give the tranny a good shove and see if it moves... check obstructions to the t bars, and tires, and any other susp parts as well. check bushings and torque on all and any bolts in the susp.. i had a clunking and it was a bolt i hadn't torqued down to spec

:o holy crap man! yer talkin a couple hundred bucks and a weekend of work!!!! 187,000 is just gettin broke in! and even if you change the motor... your starter will still be "going"..... you have to buy that little accessory seperate

you will stillg ain some HP from just the headers.. but bein as they will flow mucho better than stock... so eventually you should upgrade to 2.5" pipe and high flow cat and muffler... you will get even more gusto, as well as an extremely nice sounding pathy. sly no.. you are not doing any major harm as it is.. i drove my pathy over a year with the studs broke...... but the longer you go... the more will break......

ok. YES.. thorleys make a difference... a very noticeable one on my pathy with 2.5" pipe, a high flow cat and a single flowmaster 50 series. i love it. (got a K & N too) i got my thorleys from summit for $338 (chrome nickle plated and they're turned nicely blue now after a year).... an perma cool oil filter relocation kit (ya wanna get one... really) and i got factory studs and after a year they're still perfect (the dude at nissan had no clue wtf i was talking about with the 300z studs) and a whole lot cheaper. with the new studs you will want new nuts n washers too.. see below for part numbers and explanations/additions sly thorleys @ summit PN: DTE-464-2 **i have a '92 5 speed pathy** perma cool OFRK @ summit PN: PRM 10695 factory studs from Nissan: 14065-V5004 **or you can get the non turbo 300z studs.. they cost a bit more but are supposed to be stronger factory washers @ Nissan: 14037-V5005 factory nuts @ Nissan: 14039-W1500 umm... i just woke up so maybe there's more... oh yeah. i used the gaskets supplied by doug thorley, and had no problems for the year they were on my pathy (then i pulled the motor... again) but some complain they blow out so grab some felpro gaskets for them **also! if you have an auto..... the thorleys will still fit, i am sure someone who has done the thorley to auto install will pipe up*

dave's been rebuildin chevy auto trannies for the past 5 months now we're trying to find a pathy cheap with a fried autotrgic so he can rebuild it sly

a TD pathy/terrano will not be allowed in the US. that's why we are jealous of our canadian buddies who have them. they were not an option in the states, and as far as i know, can't be registered here as diesels.... *however! you could ship it over and sell it to our northern buddies up there, then buy a WD21 down here sly

if you don't have smog laws why not go with the newer 3.3 VG motor? or casey t's favorite for HP the DT30E or whatever it is (having brain fart).... no.. your ecu will be fine up to 2 cam sizes larger with no ecu mods. dual exhaust is mainly for looks.... it's the headers and muffler and size of pipe that'll give you the extra giddy up 2.5" pipe is the norm upgrade.. but there are a couple guys who run 3".. which i think for a VG is overkill but everyone to his own.

only other 4x4 related forums are pavement sucks 4wd club here in CA :type:

don't worry.. i was a chevy bitch before the pathy and dave (thunderbox) is nothin but a chevy man..... i feel ya........ as far as more pony power, if you have deep pockets, then go for the cams P&P and all them goodies.. cuz they will cost you.... before any upgrades are needed to the ECU, you can go 2 sizes above stock on cams thorley headers (dual exhaust is primarily for looks) and 2.5" pipe through to a flowmaster or similar muffler is recommended, with a high flow cat if you require one like i do, and if you don't wheel or submerge your pathy, and open air filter set up. I just run a K & N in mine. i have to smog my beast too so i am limited in upgrades (until i build my spare motor sly ) figure out what you want the pony power for, torque or just raw HP, smog laws, and if you have none.... dude! drop in a 350! :bow:

depending how deep you plan on going, what you plan on changing and how much you plan on spending...i would suggest you make sure you get ALL gasket off the block (head gasket), pull your oil pan and check for wear/damage on the lower end and oil pump, and change the following stuff: head gaskets all intake gaskets cam seals rear main seal & pilot bearings fuel injection rail seals exhaust studs water pump t stat t belt all other drive belts i cleaned and honed my cylinders and OMG it helped soooo much! gives the piston rings something to bite into sly and anything else that looks pooped. label everything! you will not remember where every little sensor/hose and doodad goes by the time you're done! i went to wal*mart and got some neon colored sticky labels and labelled everything i wouldn't remember with like X1 (both ends ) X2..etc. it helped a LOT when it came to putting it all back together... like paint by numbers lol here's my nightmare with my truck for pics and info http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7681

congrats on the new addition!!!! schweetness! -bounce- :cool2:

the torsion bars. i can NEVER get my pathy level. she always seems to sag one way or the other. ( i know i need at least one new bar) i like my truck LEVEL. cupholders.... ha! mine are in the console on my 5spd auto locking hubs...... they kilt my diff i think ALL pathys should have come with rear disk brakes and, of course.... the steering. nuff said

-bounce- happy birthday dean!!!!!!!!!! have fun whatever you do... and that includes working.... if you must..... but try not to...... -alcohol-