Precise1

There are quite a few in your area. Maybe post in the regional section towards the bottom of the main page? B

Agreed. I have a 2" body lift and so not have the issues/symptoms some people have described but the bushings are still in decent shape, and perhaps 1" makes all the difference... Yes, I think you are right, but only a peice or two... B

Pulling the bulb was too technical? B

Rob got Zombied... B

You'll get it figured out, it's all in the details now. Details can be... irritating at times though. If it doesn't affect drivability, articulation or parts wear, I wouldn't bother messing with it, just something I noticed. Check out Rugged Rocks, (steevo, great guy and member here) I know he was selling them, but I do not know of the manufacturing source... B

Squire stock is hellishly expensive though, and then you have a pissed off knight lancing or macing your truck every time you park it... B

I wouldn't take one if they paid me too. B

What happened to the better pictures?? B

That turned out great! Your rear axle looks a bit pulled forward, and adjustable rear links are available to address that, but otherwise, that is about exactly how I wish our R50 looked. I'm holding off to do it to a 2003 or 2004 though... Congrats, I'm sure you are loving it again. B

They have been individually fabbed by people and discussed for a long time, a person or two have even sold them. Thanks for pointing out that AC is selling them now. B

The universal joints on the front drive shaft. Do they rotate freely and without binding? I had a shake on the old pathy and when I jacked it up, the drive shaft was wagging the tranny/rear end. It was all due to the universal joints. B

You started it, now finish it! Post picts, before and after! Quit being a tease!! People here have hammers... JK of course B

Keep asking Bud, that is the whole point of the site. As for bones, old and feeling, I don't want to talk about it... B

If you remove the rear sway bar, it will allow for some serious articulation which you want since yours is mainly a hunting/trail rig. Drivability won't suffer too much as long as you leave the front one on. There is no way you would bottom out in any sort of 'normal' straight line situation without 1,000 lbs in the back, especially since you put in lift springs, no? I wouldn't worry about it now. Finish the work, take it out and see what it does VS what you like. If you decide you want stops, then go to the junk yard (time permitting of course) and grab a set of the stock ones, they can be cut down if you wish as well. I'd stick with the bolt on ones as long as the existing threads are in good shape. B

Sorry Bud, my box was full for a bit but I cleared some room. You can PM me now... As for editing, there is a 10 minute rule due to asshats editing things long past and confusing issues. I know it isn't convenient, but it is necessary. No probably about it. I just walked out and looked. Easy, as they aren't installed yet... That is good to start, but the new (and heavier) bars shouldn't take as much twist to bring things up so maybe one spline advanced? This is where it all becomes subjective... B

Sway Away bars (I'm assuming that is what he got) are labled LH and RH 1/3 of the way up the shaft. B

I tripped over this in the How To section of the Garage. It should help... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32546-how-to-replace-strut-rod-bushings/ B

Some people have bored out the center hole. It depends on the rim style, how much will be removed and if there will be enough material afterwards. B

Ok, I recommend you reindex the bars and set the lift the way you want it (I recommend .5-1" max from the bumpstop so you have some down travel) and then go have it aligned. I'm not saying this is the only thing going on, but I'll bet it is a significant contributor. Definitely something that needs to be rules out, and your tires will thank you for it regardless. B

Why do you want them? I took mine off... B

Ok, from what I understand (haven't done them) the lower control arm bushings are a PITA, but generally last a while so maybe yours doesn't need it? The UCA bushings seem to wear out faster, but are generally easier to do, especially if you go with aftermarkey poly bushings. Basically jack it up until the wheel is light/off, undo the two bolts and wrestle the assembly loose. You may have to unbolt the upper ball joint to press/burn out the bushings, but I don't know. I'm a long way from stock any more. The poly bushings can be pulled in and out... Regardless, the torsion bars generally don't require replacing, just re-indexing, usually only 1-2 splines and that should be independent from both jobs other than jacking it up... Did that help? LOL B

Did you have it aligned after you lifted it? B

You might have some play somewhere, the centerlink, idler arm, tie rod ends, etc that is allowing the shimmy but I am fairly certain it is the 4wd mode in full traction conditions that is the root cause, or what wore out the components themselves. I'd love to hear what snow and ice people have to say (I live in Cali), but I've heard this described before. Interestingly enough, one 'solution' I have heard of is to lock the front diff (weld, air, mechanical) and run manual hubs, only engaging one side thereby allowing free turning and not making the differental operate when driving is a straight line. B

No it doesn't. They just tell you that to make you feel better because you have a 87 Chevy Camaro... Just out of curiosity, do you have a mullet? B

It is the 4wd engaged on pavement that is the issue, all information warns not to do this. B