Precise1

This, and buy some el cheepo tool kit in a case for $40 and leave that in the car. I've had 2 ripped off, and I just grumble and get another. In the sticks, alone with no tools is a bad idea! Sounds like you handled it well other than that though... B

Nice! Now go beat it up... B

Damn, took almost 22 hours! Thank you TC... B

When you come to NPORA trying to figure out why your truck runs like crap... It can be idle issues, loss of power, running rich, stumbling at certain RPM ranges, etc. Basically, the computer is getting wrong or no info on how much air is coming down the pipe so it tweaks engine control settings incorrectly. It can be intermittent as well. B

It is the FSM that Nissan provides to the factory techs and should have all the information you need, including trouble shooting proceedures and specs. Divide and conquer. I'd make sure the TPS is set properly and outputting the right range first and see what that does to the idle. The TPS is unrelated to the timing belt and having a tooth off may be what is making one side noisey, but I would think that would make it idle lower, not higher. Yes, download it and follow the proceedure, that is what I would do... B

^exactly. It is on the firewall, by the passenger inner fender and the info you are looking for will be on the bottom right of it. B

This is what we compiled for the WD21. Basically every combo possible exists, Nissan mixed and matched like a meth addict at Walmart! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/20182-wd21-owners-what-drive-trainmodel-trim-do-you-have/?mode=show The R50 might be different though, but I'd still peek. It's all of 200 feet away... B

I'm fairly that is anecdotal rather than qualitative. I've always been under the impression they were the same thing, but maybe only in a pinch and they have different viscosity or additives. *cues TownCivilian with bobistheoilguy link in 3...2...1...* B You are welcome, sorry I couldn't remember all the info. I know it is here though...

Yep, unless it is a sensor that delivers variable resistance or voltage, but even then, maybe. One would think this should be pretty straight forward thoughas it can't possibly have anything to do with active engine systems management. This is a good point! B

Yeesh! I can't even tell where it leaks! Does it just weep ATF from every pore? Ok, I don't think the swap would be straight forward because I believe the pitman arm has a different sized taper or shape and the spline count is different? There is a difference, I just can't seem to recall... Yes, I would go to a Nissan parts site and check the years/numbers. I believe only Nefarious and Tungsten have swapped to the 2wd front end here. I have read some of it, but I'm not a steering geometry wiz so I don't see the benefit, and I just have a hard time believing that Nissan would engineer a weaker system for their 4x4 model and not use the 2wd system instead. Regardless, I simply braced the idler arm and installed a HooHaa center link so I've addressed the shortcomings a different way. If it is going to be driven on the street, I'm not sure a hydraulic system would be acceptable. Best bet is to go and look into the Hard Core Fab section and see what some of the SAS crew have done and copy a proven system. B

Another possibility that may help you in the future is this guy. He runs an on line parts department at a dealership in Texas. He is very knowledgeable, has good prices and I believe he recently started shipping over seas as well. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/ B

Yes, completely disconnect the battery and then turn the ignition on and step on the brakes or turn on the lights or something to drain any 'residual' voltage. Then I'd give it 5 minutes and hook it back up. That way you can run the engine again while it is still warm to minimize run time. It might be a good idea to drive it around the block to help the computer relearn in real driving situations. A couple of Q's, how did you set the timing with the idle high? The ignition timing is supposed to be set at 750-800 rpm idle. Have you checked the output of the TPS to make sure it is adjusted correctly? Mine has a poor connection and it will idle high until I physically wiggle the connector, then it will drop to normal. do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual? There is an entire proceedure starting in EC, page 24; kinda too much to repeat. You can download a copy of the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section. B

First off, verify your gearing. There is a stamped metal plate on the firewall on the passenger side. the answer is on the bottom right, it should say either HG43 or HG46... Considering the number of people with WD21s that are running 33s reasonably well with the stock gearing, the fact that you have 10-15% more HP, and the cost of regearing, I'd say put them on and drive it for a bit to see if you can live with it. You could go with 32" as well... B

Yes, Kroil is good as well, very popular with mold makers. Too bad all the good ones stink to holy hell... I agree that PB Blaster works well. Liquid Wrench is another... I'd have a hard time calling WD-40 a penetrating oil, no matter what it says on the can. You'd probably get the same effect peeing on the stuck part... B

I think your spell checker done messed you up... B

What other ones have you used? B

I'm pretty sure most WD21s were between $35-40k new! I paid $3,200 of mine a few years ago, and have probably put that much more into it in repairs, upgrades and modifications. I don't regret it for an instant... B

beastpath as well... B

Mine are from Energy Suspension and they are black, but I believe red is also available. If you haven't used him yet, contact Steevo over at Rugged Rocks and see what he has to say (fair prices too). Yeah, it seems that way sometimes, but you are right it will be in great shape at a fraction of the cost of a new/comparable vehicle. B

That'll work!! Still, your input is good and someone will come across it when they are searching for answers, so it wasn't futile, it just wasn't timely. B

Thanks for the link, I'll check it when I have some down time. In the meanwhile, I've deleted the duplicate thread... B

Ahh, thank you for the education! Ehem... So, clipping two posts on an LED was too technical? B

I'm not sure about the R50, but I know the WD21 stance is supposed to have a little rake. Looking at our R50, I suspect the same, but I haven't seen one at/in factory condition for a long time... B

Thank you very much! Here is a link to info on getting free Factory Service Manuals for Pathfinders... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26616-factory-service-manuals/ B

Well, yes and no. They go to the lower control arm, not the upper, so it is an independent task. Also, it is best to do it when the vehicle is resting on the tire to keep things positioned. Yes, I will bet that yours are probably original, and that they are probably in need of changing. You can't tell from looking without disassembling, but they take a lot of abose and AFAIC they should be a 60k mile maintenence item. There are different thoughts on the matter, but I prefer the poly bushings since they take so much load/abuse. B