Precise1

Good to know that they (most) are metal and durable plus effective !! I'll have to keep my eyes peeled. Going to the wrecker soon with the futile hopes there is a Pathy there... I'll have that on my list when I go. I see SOOO many Pathys on the road here. It's hard not to do some 'midnight salvage', but thats just so wrong I couldn't do it. My neighbor has a 4 door with about 240K on it that runs like crap and gets no love. I'm waiting for it to die so I can get several parts off of it. He is a tow truck driver, so I could prob convince him to let me part it out and he could still get rid of the carcass. Sheesh, never thought I'd want someones Pathy to die... B

Yep, bought mine new on ebay automart for like $12 each... They call them something like bumper or grill inserts. Just look at the picts and it will be clear... B

Definitely do it wheel366 !! Spent a $100 or so and have the work checked, a law suit may still be comming. Really hope not for your sake though !! DOOH !! Post means after !!! 'Post 95' is after 95, ie 96+ !!! B

Sorry, my BAD !! The 4x4 shifter has some linkage (brackets, pivot points) but the gear shifter plugs right into the top of the tranny case... I work on too many different vehicles and get confused sometimes. Try working on a VW bug, BMW motorcycle and Pathy all in the same day... There's a lot of :furious: , , pssd going on. Still, I'm myself about this one... I'm sure your choice of oil is fine, and generally better safe than sorry with the additive. BUT it should tell you on the bottle, or you can go to the web site and read/contact the manufacturer. Maybe too much LSD additive will make it not hook as well ? B

Need dimensions ??? Here...

Prefer wire frame ?? Here...

*snicker, snort, cough* Bah humbug. Totally unimpressed ! Jack of all trades, master of none ! Wimpy free CAD ? *blows booger on the floor* I have SolidWorks and AutoCAD ! Actually, it's kinda a cool set up they have; no special equipment but a great diversity. It's nice to be able to get online quotes like that, but I warn you, they'll charge insane prices for 1 offs or 'a few' parts. If there is call for something, better off sending the print to me. I'll have my buddy (owns North Bay Precision Machining) make them, or just use his equipment (maybe hand him a few bucks for the courtesy). Something that warns me about this place is they list 'threading-internal and external' as a capacity !! Then they say this "Notes: Small burrs and some material chips may remain after tapping." *snicker, snort, cough* back to *blows booger on the floor* !! Bunch of hacks if they do that. Check out the free CAD though, better than nothing and can be handy. Want a Pan Hard Rod drop mount ? Here...

Yes, it is a standard item. You can get it at the stealership, online, Kragens, Napa, Grand Auto, etc... 4 10mm bolts attach it to the WP pulley. Probably the same for the fan it's self. You may be able to get it out without removing the fan shroud or anything. Simple job, but do it all at once man !! Better do it before the weather turns !! Don't be such a lazy bastage !! Park the truck and get to it !! Besides, you have that beautiful Benz to drive in the meanwhile... B

Did you oil the linkage pivot points ??? They can get pretty crapped up with mud, road grit, mouse carcasses, etc. The factory grease is at least 10 years old, right ?? Also, I put slightly heavier oil in my tranny and it shifts stiff for the first mile or so till it warms up... B

Hey MZ, when the truck is cold, spin the fan by hand. It should be stiff and not really free wheel much at all. Keep the hood open, roll down the window, start it and listen... You should hear the fan blowing hard, then fade out a bit (within 30 seconds-1 minute?) after it has been running. If you dont really hear much of a change, the fan clutch is probably shot. By your milage, I'm guessing it is the factory original. I have had bad luck putting new fan clutches on old water pumps. It changes the ballance, and can ruin the old, already worn bushing in the WP, making it leak. You said you were going to do the timing belt, right ? Change the fan clutch and WP at the same time. This is what I would do if it were mine... B

Do you have an aftermarket tranny cooler ? If not, get one soon !! The stock tranny cooler does not do a good job and are prone to clogging. Heat will kill the tranny quick; this is a known issue on auto pathys. You DON'T want to pay to have it rebuilt ! Sorry, I'm uncertain about the other questions although I know others have experienced them and will post soon. GL Bud !! (2 Pathys, I'm jealous...) B

Yes pmercado, I think it is a good idea to have a list of links consolidated and pinned (probably in the garage section). Thanks for the cutting and editing ! Tell you what, make it your project and stay on top of it for a bit and I'll see if I can send you a free NPORA sticker... Lets try to let a few more people chime in and post links; we'll go from there. Good idea, and nice contribution. Take a moment and post you links folks !! B

YYYEEEEEEHHHAAAWWWW !! Congrats Bud !!! Sorry about your future gas milage though... B

You got to be F-ing with me lgranch !! That was/is on the road ?? I can understand being broke and driving POS cars or being mechanically clueless, but thats just plain insane !!. It couldn't possible drive even remotely 'normal' !! You'd have to pay me a lot of $ to drive that over 40... B

Definitely check out the previous post, he does great work !! Not trying to mess with his business, but I'll do a write up soon about how to make your own out of UHMW Polyethylene. Details to follow in a week or two... (many of us have more time than $) B

If you have an angle grinder, dremel, drill (go buy a wheel), cut a slot in the head and use an impact driver with a screw driver bit, or a screw driver with a BIG handle. (I have used a screw driver held by the stem with vice grips for rotation while leaning on the handle with my chest/stomache for like problems) Have you soaked it with a penetrant/lubricant ? They do help with plastic also. Try a torch to expand things ?? Be careful though... Luck Bud. B

Geez FLAper, don't know what to say other than sorry, that really sucks. I have a couple of good kinks in my back that I'm not sure what the current status of is, but I did them to myself in motorcycle crashes. They do remind me sometimes so I guess I sort of understand. Sorry to hear it, but we play the cards we are dealt, eh ? Never heard of draw life... Be well Bud. B

Ok, 1 step farther with the wrench trick. When you can't get enough leverage on an allen wrench (especially when the short of the L is the 'handle') slip the closed end of a wrench over the allen. Insto-handle !! Lever away !! Try it a few times and the appropriate size of wrench and direction will become plainly evident. Only warning about Red's ratchet extension trick. Ratchets rely on a cog/pin (gear/toggle) heads to lock. These can fail !! I have done it a couple of times !! Keep it in mind and where you are pointed; this can result in SEVERE bloody knuckles/busted hand. Still, thanks Red !! I can tell already this thread will need it's own category, but keep them coming; we'll sort it out later... B

Ok, I thought it was something like that. Good to hear it actually works ! I have the rear wiper/washer/defroster and it works fine so I couldn't care less that I dont have it. Only thing I can see wrong with it is mangling it putting things on the roof rack. But then I dont have that either... B

No problem Red... If it is something interesting, post a pict ! I was looking at 4runners also when I bought the Pathy. I prefered the size, styling, price, and characteristics of the Pathy... Not to mention the 720 that I was replacing was the best vehicle I have ever owned so Nissan was favored. B

I was given a very good suggestion by andreus009 about starting a category of "Tips and Tricks" that we know/use in mechanics, electrical, hydraulic, etc. I can see this becomming its own category, but to get it rolling lets just use posts for now. Please just submit on topic and keep commentary constructive, parallel or expansive. Details, photos, etc much appreciated. I'll start with removing broken bolts/studs. 1) Soak the offender with penetrating oil; This never hurts ! Give it a sharp rap or two with a hammer for good luck (it can actually help). 2) If possible, grind, mill, file, etc the top flat. This makes starting MUCH easier. 3) Use a spot drill or center drill to start the hole you are about to drill in the CENTER of the broken bolt. Make sure you are on center and parallel to the bolt. THIS IS IMPORTANT !! Rig up a guide with a piece of wood and C clamps or something if it helps. (if the item is removable, this is much easier to do on a mill or drill press !) Make the spot hole is slightly larger than the drill size. 4) Selecting drills: this has many nuances so bear with me. Always use quality drills: they work better, last longer and are less prone to breaking. Use left hand (counter clockwise) drills when ever possible. Sometimes due to heat and vibration they will break the bolt loose and unscrew it mid process !! You can use standard right hand (clockwise) drills but they can actually torque the bolt in tighter sometimes. Cobalt drills are harder and may be required for high grade bolts, but dont flex as well as HSS (High Speed Steel) drills so are less forgiving and more likely to break. Standard 118 degree web drills work fine if you spot the hole although they take a little more force and drill hotter. 135 degree split points start and cut much better with little or no spot hole. I make my own 140 degree carbide ccw spade drills that work wonders. I won't explain as if you don't know what this is, you wont have access to them. 5) Drill size is important ! OK, you are trying to remove a 1/4-20 bolt. Minor thread diameter is .196-.207". I like to keep .02" clearance incase you drilling crooked or off center. This means a good drill size for a 1/4-20 bolt would be about .16". It's well worth doing a little homework before you dive in. If you are reading this, you can find the info on the web EASILY. 6) Drilling the hole. USE OIL ! Thicker the better. If you don't have actual 'cutting oil' use gear oil, motor oil, household oil in that order. WD-40 or silicone spray is better than dry, but not much. Hand held drill speed should be 250-700 RPM, the bigger the drill, the slower you go. Pressure should be firm, but 'feel' it. Often you can tell there is a problem before the drill breaks. Dont drill too deep ! If you dont know how deep you can go, play it safe ! You can always drill a little more later. There may be a an oil channel or water jacket nearby ! If you are drilling deeper than 3x the drill diameter, 'clear' the chips by taking the drill out and restarting. The chips can load up the flutes and sieze the drill which=broken drill if you are not used to it. Ok, you have drilled the hole and the bolt did not break free or back out. You have 2 basic options now. 7) Bolt extractors. EZ-out (spiral ccw bolt extractors) is popular with some, but I dont like them. Too brittle and weak; I have broken a lot of them and I do this stuff for a living. I like the square style, much more durable and if you bell mouth the hole and it doesn't bite any longer, you still have options. You insert them into the hole, tap them in with moderate force then put a wrench on (recommend tap wrench) and unscrew. Hopefully this works. Use feel and sounds to tell whats going on; when in doubt, back off a bit. DO NOT SNAP IT OFF IN THE HOLE !! This means starting over with a x10 dificulty level. Makes for a bad day folks ! Ok, the bolt extractor wont get the bolt out, feels like it will break or bell mouthed the hole and wont grab any longer. 8) Redrilling: If the hole is well centered and you have the #'s for the bolt diameters and a good drill selection, pick a drill much closer to the thread minor diameter and redrill the hole. Repeat if necessary. I have literally drilled out the entire core of bolts and all thats left is just the thread its self. This comes out easy like a helicoil, or you just grab it with needle nose pliers and unwind it out of the hole. Good luck, and just be patient. Odds are, you wont need to get to the last step. In case everything fails, my next write up will be tapping and thread chasing. Enough for today. mws, there was a specific request for your grease/piston blind hole bushing removal method writeup. Feel free to cut and paste or elaborate if you wish. B

Just out of curiosity, does the rear spoiler actually DO anything, or is it just for looks ? B

About time. I guess he finally understands he is not in any position to make demands. Personally, I wouldn't pay the @$$ a dime but if you do, make sure you do it after 15 months... GL Bud !! B

Thought you said you were married ? And you still don't get enough ?? What a glutton !! B

Well, in the spirit of ever having some stickers made, I think you should just go ahead with what you like DJD. As he said before, he just wanted some stickers for himself, then thought it would be nice to get input and offer them to other people. If you like the final design, great, if not don't get any... I see this going the way of the T-shirt; every time theres a general 'Yeah, thats fine' someone pops in and suggests something else... Personally, I like the tire, a truck would be fine also but we have the tire one finished. If you dont like the tire, cut it off ! If you want something totally different, design it up and have some made. I'll probably want a couple of those too... B