Precise1

Ok the 90 doesn't have electric fans and as you said clutch, I'm guessing you have the fan clutch. If it is quite loud, yes, odds are the clutch is bound for some reason. Can you turn it by hand? You should be able to get 1/2 rev spin trying hard. It should start up loud, then fade away as it warms up something like 15-60 seconds. I'd bet this is the problem. If so, change it soon as it will probably put unwanted stress on the water pump. B

Thanks 91PathSE, I think I understand now... Now, if you put the X SC motor in the Pathy... No, not normally, but how many mile is on yours? If an injector leaked down pressure in a cylinder, it would be like that until it was cleared out. If some oil from the valve area migrated into a cylinder due to an imperfectly sealed valve, it could act like that until burned off. If it was cold, it could act like that. You see where I'm going... I have a BMW K75 with a 750cc power plant that is an inline 3 cylinder laying on it's side so the spark plugs stick out horizontally to the left. From day 1, sometimes it would blow out blue smoke when started, due to oil leaking into one of the cylinders, It's inherent in the design, but is no flaw. There were oodles of K75 and K1000 built (up to 93ish?) and there are still many of them on the road. Mine has 78,000 on it... Some 'Putt, putt and a puff of smoke' after sitting a while doesn't necessarily mean a great deal. B

Mr P covered the answer well. With prep, tools, a place to work and some help (luck) it won't be a big deal. If it HAS TO be running in 2 days, do a lot of homework and set up another ride incase something happens (or doesn't). I'm doing the play it save angel bit... B

Nice!! Good info!! Thank you very much. Too bad I have a 95 with a speedo that reads 32MPH regardless if you are going 2mph-65mph. After that, it dies down slowly back to 0 about 75mph. I drive by tach and how fast everyone is going... B

Nice score on that!! I hope it was a good deal... B

When was it that you upgraded the tires Aaron?? B

Ok, so, they weren't equal in mods/cost/ability??? I'm really asking for a realistic comparison; I don't know many people that had both. But to say a super modded X kept up with a hardly modded pathy makes no sense. Just asking Bud. B

The wheels don't need to be changed, who ever told you that has a screw loose!!! Yes, there are several lines to be changed/moved. Brake lines, gas filler lines, coolant lines perhaps if you don't relocate the radiator, etc. I HIGHLY recommend you take some time to use the search function to read up on body lifts. Many people have done them and there are plenty of threads about it. If you have trouble finding the information, we will help you. What condition is your truck in? Any real rust? How handy are you mechanically? Do you have a good selection of tools and a good place to work on the project? Will you need to drive the truck within a day or two or can it be done over a week? These are the questions that determine if $500 for the install should be paid. B P.S. Where the heck is Loisiana?

Check the throttle valve switch? Check the idle up solenoid valve? B Could you need to adjust the throttle cables? (strike that)

That was a joke. You know, tongue-in-cheek. I have to ask though, was the Pathy as 'built' as the X? B

That is a good point, but I'd guess that the volume is so low it shouldn't make a difference. Years ago when I researched motors running on Browns gas alone, you needed to ceramic coat the pistons, cylinders, etc to keep it from rusting away on you. B

VERY few people here have the Z24 motor so I don't expect a fast response. Have you tried web searches? B

First, soundly whack them on the head with a hammer a few times, but not in a way to damage them. This is known as 'ringing' it and will help break the rust/corrosion free and any penetrant you use has a better chance of being effective. You should try heating it with a torch then letting it cool (thermal expansion will further assist breaking it free). Then apply a penetrating solvent (PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc). Let that sit for a while then try to break the bolts free. Use an impact driver (mechanical is fine also) first, then a wrench or socket. Repeated applications of penetrant on the really stubborn bolts is advised. Good luck and be careful. If you snap some bolts, I have a write up somewhere on broken bolt removal and thread chasing. B

Sorry Bud, but it happens. Like NT said, don't let it bring you down (like Pezzy). Have a good attitude when you interview and you'll shine!! You have to have things going for you, you drive a Pathy and belong to this site... Best O luck!! B

Hey, I hopes it works out like you need it to, and good luck selling the Pathy. Make sure to post picts of the X and don't be a stranger!! I'm sure some people would love to get together and out wheel you... B

Check the vacuum line under the hood for cracks/connections first. Then the diaphram... Hmm, let me go out and look at mine. Bulb or the sensor/connection at the transfer case. I believe it is quite accessable from underneath drivers side... B I think the sensor was easy to see when I had the shifter boot removed, you can still get to it from underneath but it will be tight...

What did Forrest Gumps mother say?? B

In the past, when I saw those while riding my bike I'd turn around and buzz it. I always hoped they'd record the speeds and the print out would have 1 listing for 117mph in a 35 zone... ;D B

Yeah, I'd say you have more tools than most... I'm glad you got it worked out and hopefully it will be running soon. B

Yes, exactly as Martin says, my old D720 needed the same treatment. As a matter of fact, it was the smog guy who showed me the tweek... Better compression/less blowby/slightly different timing?? It does help... Don't bother sneaking, run it at the highest rpm allowable. Also, a fresh oil change can tip the emmisions a few percent in your favor. I generally time my tune ups every 2 years. B

That's a good discount as it is!! Sorry, I wasn't trying to force a better deal, just didn't think before I typed... Thank you very much for all your effort and good help, Rob. You've made a big difference to a lot of people here! B

Black soot, but dry? Did you run the truck before you pulled them? From my experience, that indicates severe rich running, perhaps with some oil burning. Your case seems to be odd though... The tips should be tan when everything is running right. Can you borrow a coolant system pressure tester? Pressurize the system to 15 PSI, watch to see how fast it leaks down (may force the leaks so you can see them). Keep the plugs out, then crank it and see if any mist comes out of the plug holes. I seem to remember a buddy that had intermittent problems, the head hasket leaked when it was cold, but almost sealed up tight when warm IIFC. Made it hard to trouble shoot. Keep at it, well help all we can. You can test for codes any time you want, it's usually worth trying and will do no harm. Do you know where the write up is? B

Rob just says to mention that you are a NPORA member. Perhaps there is no discount, but he ships you a Hershey Kiss along with your part... LOL, can't argue if the Nissan Part is cheaper... Glad you are getting it worked out so well. B

You are welcome... Is that $57 with the NPORA discount? If so, still not bad, like you said. B

This may facilitate... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18653 B