Precise1

LOL, been watching all the Star Wars movies for the last few weeks and watched Space Balls last night for good measure... B

*snort* B

I don't have much input on this other than I have a spare (truck) maf housing that I plan to bore over (probably incrementally larger) and test to see if it compliments my headers/custom exhaust. It might be a suitable alternative... B Bob, how is the diameter related to HP? Seems to me the MAF size should be related to the engines bore, stroke, compression, RPM, etc (air volume capacity). If your information is correct, then the biggest restriction is the stock air box/filter??

6x5.5" bolt pattern, 3.5-4" back spacing?? B

LOL, neither of the socket head cap screws intersect the flow channels, give me some credit!! Each cap screw has 3 serrated lock washers on it... B

LOL, I read somewhere that the Pace Setter paint is only on there to protect the metal during storage and shipping, like cosmoline... Simon, do you want to post some pictures of your headers here or elsewhere? Then we have a comparison/examples of the units on very similar trucks (1995, body lifts and auto tranny). B

I have never so much as opened the hood on a R50 so I don't have any qualified opinion. There is a lady at work with an R50 and I'll see tomorrow if she will let me look at hers. Parked side by side, I should be able to get a pretty good idea. As for Thorley VS Pace Setters, first would be the price difference. From everything I have read, the Thorleys are better made but I have not seen the Pace Setters. The guy at the exhaust shop I went to commented on how well the Thorleys fit on the truck, I'll see if I can get a few photos today. B

Here is some stud info, it was 47mm OAL IIRC. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23631&view=findpost&p=446681 I don't know about that stud, but yes, with the stock ones the M8x1.25 (shorter) end threads into the block. As said, I used 30mm long bolts, 25mm long should work just fine also. I see no need for antisieze, outside of the rust belt they come out easy enough and the torque is only 15 ft/lbs or so. I used Permatex copper high temp gasket-from-a-tube on my headers gasket(both sides) and on the collector. So far so good. B

What I learned when I was reading up on what I could use in California (from an independent exhaust site, not pathfinder specific) was that the precats purpose is to heat up quickly from a cold start, reaching the required temperature for the catalytic reastion faster than the full sized cat. They also said something about it helping maintain the exhaust temperature when warm, but I didn't really understand that part. In effect, it is simply a smog cat for warmup and should not (significantly) effect emmisions when the engine is warm. B

Very good point. I decided not to count on grounding through the filter mount and drilled and tapped a couple of 4-40 threaded holes in the T body so I can run a ground wire. (machinist, not a welder) Pictures later...

LOL, thanks but I prefer to have the gauge. I'm pretty good about not being paranoid, but I really would like to monitor the temperature to see what affects it the most, both out of desire not to fry the tranny and pure curiosity/edification. It was posted here recently, but I'll have to look it up. IIRC 150-180 degrees F was normal with 200F getting hot and 220+F possibly damaging. Sorry, no switch there so I can't help you solve the mystery... I have NO idea. I'm not very sharp when it comes to electronics, so this is by far the safest and easiest way for me to do it. Besides, it is a nice closed loop to the computers temp readings. If you are getting hot with the inline gauge and your idiot light has not come on, either time to check the bulb or just not trust it at all... B

As long as the 89 is a TBI injected 2 door, I'm betting there would be no issue?? One good double check is to go to a parts site (like rockauto or courtesyparts or something) and look up the parts you want to exchange to see if there are different listings/part numbers for the different years. It's not a perfect check, but a good place to start. B BTW, isn't that Steeevo's truck?? (ruggedrocks.com)

Come on now, it wasn't a stupid question GG, it was a frequent one... B

Really Tungsten? Please explain... B

Yes, I just had a Magnaflow cat (2" diameter) installed last weekend. It was with headers and a cat back system so I can't comment on what it alone did, but the difference between a high flow cat and a punched cat is not much, and if you want any low end, you probably want the slight restriction of the cat. Ask Andreus009, he cleared out much of his exhaust and is adding stock pieces back to it in hopes of properly tuning it. 3" and straight isn't the best answer unless you are running nascar... B

LOL, you could have told us it was a one time 3 mile trip type thing, here we go trying to save your AC for next summer... B

The stock manifolds are held on with studs in the head and nuts/washers. I removed mine without issue or broken stud and installed headers using standard hex head bolts. All 6 studs simply unscrewed when rotating the rusted nut, same as a bolt. Soaking never hurts. I used PB Blaster but Kroil is good stuff also. Autozone has Felpro, but I think most chains will. If you want some bolts, I'll mail you 8 just give me an address. *note, if your exhaust falls off or whatnot, it's not my fault. B

This MV, I'll sell you a pair... B

Agreed, it is best to use your AC, even briefly, every few weeks or so. As for running without the belt, other than the afore mentioned, no big deal. B

Yours is an automagic I believe. Too bad, I drove my manual without a speedo for years, just watching the tach and being sensible. I don't think I want to try it in the automagic though... Get one from a part out... B

Well, I just installed headers so this is fresh in my mind. To replace the gasket is not bad, nothing like the timing belt but if you don't have a comfortable place to do the work, forget it. Felpro makes a decent gasket, I don't know about the OEM. The Stealership will sell you some studs, washers and nutz for $4-5 a set. I used M8x1.25x30mm grade 10.9 (grade 8 equivalent) hex head bolts with standard plated washers. Seems to be holding tight, but that was only about 20 miles ago. Oh, congrats on the timing belt/tranny cooler. Check out my thread on tranny temperature gauges... B

I think we talked about this once before? I wonder if there is anything pinned about it? B

You have the electronic cluster. The first attempt to fix is to remove the cluster and tighten the brass screws in the rear. They are ground points and can loosen up. Check the connectors for corrosion/cleanliness and reinstall. B

*snort* Well, I just got the truck back and, well, it's loud. I haven't driven it enough to talk about how much more power it has or low end torque (other than there seems to be a tiny bit of hesitation from idle) but I can tell you that it makes noise. I won't be sneaking up on anyone anymore... B

I believe they are similar, but different mounting points for the bed and the fact that the hardbody is leaf spring, not coil. Still, it sounds like old Dave can handle whatver needs to be done... B