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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. JUST DON"T LET HIM DRIVE IT!!! B
  2. I pried, I twisted, I could barely get it to move... Then I gave it a shot of WD-40 and popped the thing off in 30 seconds. Learned something... As for safety glasses, I'm a machinist and when I'm under the car, this is how I roll... B
  3. Good job. That should work just fine. WHen it is raining you may get some splatter but shouldn't be a big deal, not to maention the Germans used water injection in some of their fighters, you might get an added boost!! At worst, put a quick drain drain plug in the bottom of the P trap... B
  4. Maybe not in Cali. Not only does all the approved equipment have to be there, but it has to be within inches of the stock location. Got your O2 bung 2" down stream farther than stock? That's a smog check failure... Yeah, I know. B
  5. *snort* Glad to hear, I've been planning to tweak mine again but then I have tweaked it before so the deadly steering box adjustment screw that isn't to be messed with has already released the poison. B
  6. Ok so they are not Carb/50 state certified or pending but may only be legal for use off road? If so, you have just disappointed my wife. B
  7. How much do your rims weigh? How big/wide/heavy are your tires? What elevation are you at? You have added a lot of extra weight with sliders, bumpers, etc...right? Is your drive train well lubed (tranny, U joints, rear Differential)? You have custom exhaust, that may be having effects... You got the point, there are many factors and each one can easily change the fuel economy a .5 to 1 MPG. Most of your factors are adding up negatively you, in town at least so it hints to weight, inertial mass/unsprung weight and fuel ratios upon acceleration. So you understand how much things can be changed, I put manual locking hubs on the wife's R50 and got 2mpg more on the highway... See my Pathy below, it is an automatic and I sometimes drive agressively. I get less than 15 mph in town and I've never gotten a good highway reading... See the first answer and Adam is exactly correct. My first pathy was stick and I would shift between 2000 and 2500 only to cruise in that gear on flat without accelerating, 2500 and 3000 normally and 3000-4000 if I was trying to get some power for a hill or merging or something. B
  8. I'm sorry to hear, but you are supposed to look for the rust with a hammer, not your eyeballs. Especially since you know where and what to look for. Ok, now that we are here... 1) It sounds like this one isn't nearly as bad as the last so bonus there. 2) To that I say http://weldingsupplynj.com/ http://www.hotfrog.com/Products/Welding-Equipment/NJ and http://www.thomasnet.com/southern-new-jersey/steel-service-centers-80132103-1.html Sounds like one has the need and $, the other willing and the equipment/supplies are available. Be sure to post pictures... B
  9. AAHHAAA!!! Someone buy them and try it out!!! B
  10. I think that may have been Morpheus, a service manager at a dealership in Canadia. He since went turncoat and sold/is selling his Pathy so I don't think that project ever got past the idea stage. Here is one... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24064&st=0&p=438736&hl=R50%20headers&fromsearch=1entry438736 And two... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24585&st=0&p=448692&hl=R50%20headers&fromsearch=1entry448692 B
  11. Alrighty, how to wrap this up?? In a nut shell, it cost me about $380 to fix and all I did was replace one injector and the fuel filter. The resistance call out of the injectors is 10-14 ohms @ 75 degrees. I checked injectors 1 & 3 and got 34 ohms and 12 ohms. I started the vehicle (it ran rough), let it warm up,then sit for 10 minutes for everything to heat up and rechecked the injectors. Infinite resistance on injector #1 and 14 ohms for #3. For kicks I checked the wiring harness for proper voltage and no problems there. On line I could find rebuilt injectors for $50 but they didn't specify the color code, so I wasn't going to use them. I found some Beck/Arnly injectors of the correct color (black for mine) for $95 new but I really didn't want 1 new and 5 old injectors (silly perhaps) so I bought a set of 6 used injectors along with the fuel rails from this place http://www.ninfiniti.com/ for $200 shipped to my door. Another $125 for a decent OBD2 reader (buy a $50 unit or a $300+ unit, don't waste money on a midgrade one) and another $50 for a full set of new seals and a fuel filter from RockAuto. The car runs like a champ, the best since we have owned it thanks to the full tune up. The faulty injector was failing intermittently when hot, how annoying is that?? I now have spare black injectors with full seal kits that I'm willing to sell at a good price. PM me or check in the Classifieds, and Thank You to everyone who helped!! B
  12. In the process of doing this. The hoses are loose but fighting me enough that I called time out @ 7pm Friday. I'll fight with them again tomorrow... B
  13. Accidentally overtorque?? Look, if you 'overtorque' a stud, versus a bolt, where do you think the added stress goes?? Into the threads of the aluminum head. I can pull a stud out of the head just as easy as I can rip the threads out with a bolt. The real point is not to be a monkey and overtorque and either fastener will work fine. I used 10.9 grade bolts since I had a box of them and I'm not about to pay 80-$100 for exhaust hardware. They are working fine so far. B
  14. Thanks, I get it now. I was only 1/2 right. The Pathys have 1 fender, the HBs have two, the difference is in the bulge. The 4wd HB bulges the same as the Pathy and the 2wd is insecure... B
  15. I'll have to believe you, I don't have any 2wds to compare to. Ok, Factorynissan parts differentiates between 2wd and 4wd fenders for the D21 (1995) but does not for the WD21 (1995). This means that all Pathy fenders are the same (thats what I thought)? So what D21 fenders are interchangable with the the WD21, the 4wd items only?? Just trying to get a definitive answer... B
  16. Yes, pretty much. Two other thoughts are that you can extend that end piece farther back, still parallel to the roof and cap the end and slot the underside 1/2 of the pipe diameter and 4-6 inches long, sort of copying the Safari snorkel intake port. The second is that you can buy various snorkel 'hats' fairly cheaply that will keep rain and crap out too. I've been looking at this a lot since I plan to have a custom snorkel fabbed, but I'm going with a metal pipe that I'll have a local exhaust shop bend for me. I'm going with an Australian forward facing intake with prefilter and water seperator. B
  17. Good point, I forgot about that. Of course they wouldn't be the same... B
  18. There have been a few people experimenting with exhaust lately and the general concensus is that some backpressure is desired, but mainly to keep low end torque. I have not heard of a lot of people burning valves but then very few run straight pipes either. I have sold a stock mid pipe with precat that andreus009 put back on to recapture some power and both Tungsten and I have wound up with almost identical exhaust systems, simply because it is a logical, proven combination. MY1PATH is giving you good info also, but I think you'd want some backpressure. B
  19. None of the parts suppliers differentiate between 2 and 4wd when selecting fenders so I suspect you have 'more bulge' on the brain... B
  20. I disagree. Not only is it illegal and irresponsible, but for under $100 you can put in a high flow cat that will not negatively affect performance. Best of all worlds... B
  21. Good point 87 (and Ty) what if you extended the last bit a little farther parallel to the roof and cut the end like ---/ ? B
  22. Ok, that makes sense... I have a 48 state ECU from a 95 5 speed but I don't know if that is a good swap for your 89 and I can't remember if you have a manual or not. B
  23. Sorry, but I can't say much about the failure modes of the auto trannys Here is the info on the automatic shift kit. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11862 In all honesty, if you don't mind shifting the manual tranny is stronger, more reliable and affords slightly more power and better mileage. B
  24. You are correct Sir, almost identical other than it is 10.9. A minor detail... http://www.jgmes.com/library/table_fastener.htm B
  25. Measure the threads to understand so it doesn't happen with the next one... B
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