Precise1

I recently fixed a P0301 and P0138 code. My issue was that the injector for cylinder #1 was intermittently failing when hot and the Bank 1 #2 O2 sensor was getting high readings. (I was told that the #2 O2 sensors do not affect the air/fuel mixtures but are more of a secondary verification) I replaced the injector and the O2 code quickly cleared its self and the CEL went out before I ordered and replaced the O2 sensor. You can read up on it here if you wish... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27522 Since you have a random misfire (not a specific cylinder) I'm guessing more ignition related components like cap/rotor and perhaps wires. At least inspect these. The one bank fouling, not both makes me wonder if it is a cylinder specific problem like a wire or plug?? If you do have injector issues, I have 5 spare injectors and new seal kits that may be of use to you. B

Have you gone to the Garage section and downloaded the 1994 Factory Service Manual in PDF form yet?? (pinned at the top) That may have the wiring information in it... B

A better solution is what MaritimeMan did years ago... He relocated it and never had a problem. I couldn't find the thread on it, but I stopped looking when I found that quote... I personally don't like the idea of unplugging it and hoping there isn't a problem... B

Drill and tap is simple, it's more the removal of the unit to do it is what is annoying... B

Yes, correct. I believe the older Calmini's did not have them and when enough people complained of the famous squeaking, they added that feature to the product. B

That is where I put it, the logic being that I know what temp the tranny is operating at. That is all that matters in my opinion... B

In order... No, there is not that I know of. I seriously doubt it would be more than 5 degrees cooler. It is a short distance and the flow rate is significant.* Waste of time IMHO, rather add a larger or second cooler in series. *I work for an injection molding company that runs molds at 300-400 degrees F with oil circulating thermalators and injects plastic at 750 degrees F. I am somewhat familiar with line-foot temperature drop scenarios... B

Yep, that's why I only describe them. People can sub in their own word for it but they know what I mean... B

Very nice, I like the thinking and execution... Don't bother, you'll only bung things up... Several good suggestions to try first... B

You mean Delrin?? They used a hard plastic for the bushings?? I have also heard that waterproof bearing grease (ie for boat trailers) works very well and may be easier/cheaper for you to get. B

Look in the services section, there should be a promotional code posted that gets you another 5% off of that freakishly cheap price... B

Cool, I'm glad it was just a miscomprehension, not a problem... B

And?? B

Maybe this should be pinned as a How To (install a more powerful motor and still pass smog)?? B

Did you ever find a T fitting?? B

Not stupid at all!! I dug this out of a thread... Double check that of course by putting a line into a clear container and having someone crank the motor for 1 second. DO NOT LET IT START AND RUN UNLESS YOU LIKE TRANNY FLUID EVERYWHERE. Here is the entire thread on installing a tranny fluid filter and temp gauge... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24503&st=0 B

Yep, I've heard anywhere fom $500-800, mainly depending on the area. There are a few things that you may want to do at the same time (or at least have inspected). The cam seals, crank seals, thermostat and thermostat bypass hose. These all need the water pump/timing cover removed to access... B

For all anyone knows, he is a certified welder with 10 years experience. Just because he welded them himself doesn't mean they are substandard. I'm a machinist so if I make a part on the equipment in my garage then it isn't as good as the ones I get paid to make at work? Not arguing, just saying... You pulled the winch out of the ARB bumper?? It is an internal, forward foot mount so you literally ripped the front of the bumper out along with the winch?? I have never heard anyone complain about defects with an ARB bumper, just price. What was the rating on the winch?? Yes, the hard body one will work for a 1.5-2" body lift. any taller and it will have to be cut and extended. No problem though because if the welder uses a second plate, the bumper will be stronger than stock (in that area anyway). As I said above, I have not heard of complaints of ARB bumpers failing and they do have 2 points to hook up to. If you do get the ARB, do get a winch too, it's 1/2 the point... B

Good idea!! B

Does that mean you are going to wave the finger and quit, Jen?? B

I went through the thread and glossed for suspension parts, didn't find any but missed it in the first post?? I apologize. *sigh* I'm getting old... No problem Bud. I'm just trying to do the same for my wife's Pathy. Don't want to lift it (much) but I want to get rid of the sag and slop that 160k miles causes. I'll just figure it out another way... Good luck yourself, I hope you get a hold of that guy and it works out so you can get the parts for yourself... B

X78 on the mix and match but if you are like most people and these pathys are the norm of the bell curve, a SE model will probably have more of the popular and useful features. That said, I saw one SE the other day that didn't have a sun roof, roof rack, external carrier and had the fleet vehicle steel rims. Weird!! Like everyone says, get the one that is lowest miles/best shape/best price. Virtually everything else can be added. Need a roof rack?? I have 2 in the garage... B

*snort* What?? You thought you were done?? B

TPS?? B

I'd guess idler arm, center link, ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, etc. Just a matter of which... I'm willing to bet that your lower control arm brace bushings (towards the rear, a bar that goes through the frame) are shot (most are, they don't last long) and that affects the ability to handle a hit greatly. B