Precise1

Let's see... I removed the fender flares, the seat belts, and the ash tray. Today I'll pull the ECU, disconnect the fuel lines, remove the starter and break the engine bolts loose. B

It could. There is a post by k9sar that outlines the resistance range a while back and a very recent one by someone else talking about voltage output. The FSM should have the diagnostics in it. When rich though? Air filter?? MAF wiring or dirty?? EGR valve issues??? A lot of possibilities unfortunately. I'd simply start checking the basics. B

Hey Bud, you want to go through the For Sale section and post in the Parts Wanted section of the Classifieds for this stuff. I can move this thread if you wish... That said, I have all 4 fender flares in ok shape that I would sell cheap, but I do not have the bolt on mud flaps front and rear. Correction, I may have the ones off of my second truck (I have to look) but I was planning on keeping them if the California cops gave me trouble, but none have. Let me know exactly what you want and I can take pictures for you if you like. Willing to trade flares for quad... B

I'm almost certain that I read that the WD21 tranny was 1 pint from L to H which means it would be the same for the 96-00 R50 and by extension the 01-04 R50s as well. If nothing else, it is a safe increment. B

Incontinent?? *slinks away* B

Welcome Lisa!! Take a moment to consider what everyone has said, they are all valid points. The nice guy who coppied all the repair links for you is a dealership mechanic so you can count on what he has posted. Yes, your truck needs work and someone has to do it, but it doesn't have to bankrupt you either. Tell your son to get on here and learn how to work on his vehicle, he'll be glad for what he learn all his life. If he doesn't seem excited about it, have him go through the Member's Rides section to see what people have done with trucks like his. If he still isn't willing to work on it, smack him in the back of the head and tell him to enjoy walking... B

There are two 'bolts' and one stud from what I can tell (1995 should be the same). One round headed 'bolt' on the bottom, one on the top under the rubber and in between the two it looks like a stud attached to the end piece. I'm not 100% sure without taking it apart, but that is what it looks like and it doesn't make any sense any other way of how it would come apart. I'm sorry about the damage, it was obviously absolutely unnecessary. I will say this though, if you value your Pathy, get/make aftermarket bumpers; the stock ones are useless and only for cosmetics. B

Who cares?? Just kidding Bud, but I couldn't pass a set up like that... For the cold weather battery issues, have the battery in an insulated compartment that gets vented with exiting cabin air so if you are using the heater, the battery is also. A small 50 watt heater can be added to keep the battery above freezing. True, using a heater diminishes the range, but hey, no one told you to live there. Realistically though, it also makes you get worse mileage in a gas/diesel vehicle. How about a Frontierish sized truck but with a shorter bed (the space used to house batteries)?? The hood is shorter because all it houses is a small 1 or 2 cyl diesel motor to spin a generator strong enough to run the vehicle at say 50-80% power when the battery is low or recharge the battery when draw is low or absent. Put, say, 50 HP motors at each wheel, above axle design for clearance (cant remember the name) and you have true all wheel drive without all the cases, axles and CVs. Electric motor feed back is very fast so it would be easy to have traction control but add 2 different modes. One that just drives one motor for highway cruising efficiency and one that allows user selected what wheels are powered (any combo) manually. With the electric motors you get 100% torque at 0 rpm so tire sizes could be large and if the batteries had a range of 50 miles, that would be enough for most peoples commutes/errands. Remember that the truck is charging while you are in the store/at work/whatever if you so wish, plug in otherwise. Of course the roof/hood/tonneau cover is photovoltaic plastic (they already make it in sheets, 12% efficient. 18% is the top notch glass panels you see used on houses). While there are some issues to address, this is all used/proven technology ranging from military vehicle drive train to diesel/electric trains themselves. I'd take a serious look at a vehicle like that... Yes, I would also like a diesel, solid axle patrol from 2 door to 5 door 7 seater but lets get real, alternative power is the future and using it will allow us to also use dino power. As for the rest of the Nissan lines, I don't know them well enough to think that I know what is best. B

IIRC Mr510 stated that there was no real point in messing with the stock intake because it readily moves more air than the VG can use. Light port/polish, put on a free flowing filter and a straight intake tube and call it good. I'm in no way saying you shouldn't do your intake project, but as I understand it, it won't make a huge difference. B

Ok, in that case... Read this How To and I'll dig up another that is supplimental. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12828 Don't worry, it isn't that hard, but takes some focus and a few specific tools. B The other http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23280

I got my XRC8 winch at 4wheelparts.com for $250+tax out the door. I know the roller fairlead comes with it and I'm pretty sure the cables too. I'll check the box tomorrow, it's sitting on the shelf in the garage. (I have a used winch with electrical cables so I never paid attention to that) I bought my control arms used, but go to the local truck shop and ask about Superlift UCA's for Hardbodies (4x4 V6 of course). They'll want to sell a kit (front and rear), but explain that ther was front end damage and you just need the UCAs. They can be sold seperately... B

When does poly not last as long as rubber, much less longer? Serious question... B

Funny how most statements are retro "bring back" mentality. What about the Leaf and that whole direction?? I'm using this as a reminder to fill in later... B

Right here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18653 Same state as you and Rob is a GREAT guy. Prices are pretty good for dealerships and Rob owns a Pathy so he knows exactly what you need. I do recommend changing the tensioner, cam and crank seals, thermostat, bypass hose and water pump so you won't have to go back there for a long time. I replaced everything (radiator hoses, fan clutch too) and it cost me about $300... B

There is a flex gas line connecting the two hard fuel rails on either side. Make sure this is tight at both ends and not leaking. Look around each injector to see if there is any wetness. This is hard on the drivers side, but do your best with a flashlight and mirror. Check the flex gas line from the hard line on the passenger side frame rail to the fuel filter (cant miss it just a little back from the battery) and also the flex line from the filter to the fuel rails. Make sure all the clamps are tight and the hoses aren't cracked or weeping. Keep a fire extinguisher in the vehicle and handy!! B

Your pathfinder is fat!!! Exactly!! 2.2 for weight, .61 for distance, 1.05 for volume, 2.54 for measurements and (Cx1.8)+32 for temperature. It is simple whether you are going from metric to standard or the other way around. It is the Brits who are totally wacked with their hogsheads, stones and farthings... B

It's soooo much nicer working on vehicles when you have something else to drive to work the next day. As long as you actually do work on them... B

I know the feeling, but don't say it too loud or some people will rip on you for not wheeling like you stole it actively destroying your truck. Ok, that said, I bought my XRC8 for $250+tax (watch for web sales), I bought 5 Crager Soft 8s for $212 delivered (Summit Racing), and you can get Super Lift arms, only rear shocks (front don't change in length) and JGC coils for $250-300ish depending on a few things. Seriously, don't let the $ burn a hole in your pocket. Have the $ ready and wait to get a deal and the most bang for buck... Do you have a winch bumper? What rims do you have now?? What's wrong with them? I think I'd lean towards the lift first... B

Do this first, at least the fluid, but the cooler isn't hard or costly either. Elaborate please... B

That thing looks great!! I have no idea of how good it is though. Sorry about the MPG, why is it so bad?? B

You might be able to press them out (or pieces of it out) with 30 tons, but more often than not people burn them out with a torch and clean up with a wire wheel... B

Precision, fit and finish may also be inferior. Looks the same doesn't always count... B

Describe how far and how hard you pushed. Did you hear a ratcheting noise?? Did the wheels turn? Once when I was in a hurry and incautious (new to auto trannys also) I went from Drive to Park (was shooting for Reverse) while rolling forward slowly. The truck made a horrible ratcheting noise until it stopped moving. Afterward drove/shifted fine... B

I can't tell you the length of the studs, but the thread is M8x1.25. I used 30mm long socket head cap screws, 10.9 grade on mine when I installed Warn hubs. The thread depth is considerable (I never bottomed out) so you have a little leeway. Hope this helps... B