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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. I'd be amazed if an ultrasonic cleaning did anything for the resistance... I understand Alkorahil's point with junkyard injectors but if you source them well, I see no harm in used injectors, especially if you are not replacing them all. I bought an entire fuel rail set, pressure regulator and 6 injectors from NOW (Nissan Only Wreckers in Sacramento, Ca) for $200. There was still a little gas in the parts when they arrived. I replaced one injector (with new seals) and it works perfectly, now I have 5 spares if any of the others decide to crap out. That said, I just pulled a set off of my parts truck. I have yet to determine the color coding or if they match what is in my DD so I may have some spares for you. Let me try to take a look in the next few days. B
  2. Yep, pull a system off of a benz, audi or volvo and set it up... B
  3. Do you want to risk 1 or more cylinders running lean or rich when the O2 sensor has the ECU changing things due to misleading feedback? It could even affect emmisions and smog tests. Then there is what MY1PATH said (didn't know that). Alkorahil (Rob Lacy) who runs a parts department advised me not to mix and match injectors. His advice is rock solid and that's good enough for me... B
  4. All of the above. Seriously, I have one of each (Hayes from when I bought my first pathy, FSM found here for free and a Chiltons that came with my second pathy) and cross reference them often. Also, there are several threads here about tranny removal but I'm at work and don't have time to search for you. B
  5. Yep, good product through Steeeeeeevo at Rugged Rocks=no problems. All I can say is remember it for next time. We don't endorse many businesses here, but the ones that we do are 5 star. Good luck with your ordeal. I feel your pain once I stopped laughing (been there). B
  6. No. As a certified scuba diver, I can tell you that I would have no problem driving along as long as the truck wasn't gulping water. If you only ran a snorkel up to the bottom of the windshield, it wouldn't be very effective. Why run only 1/2 way up when it is easier to secure at the top anyway?? Also, the misconception is that snorkels are only for amphibious vehicles. Sure, that is 1 application but another is clean air. Ever follow another vehicle or 5 on a dusty road? You can't hardly see crap and start choking; well, your motor intake has it even worse. Ever wonder how fine your filter blocks? How quickly will it clog and reduce the engine's ability significantly? There is a third reason, performance. For most vehicles, the airbox is restrictive by either intakes, filtering or both. While some snorkels plumb into the stock air box, others go with custom filtering. One will give you some increase, the other a bit more. Water proof the dizzy with some silicone or even put in plugs to give a shot of WD40 before you go for a dip. Trust me, that works like a champ... LOL When you are parked in a puddle. What about when you are crossing a stream. I've seen no problem turn' into OH SHEIT real fast. It sounds to me like you have decided already and just want to argue about it... Look at it from my side. I have a 95 WD21 with 105k miles on it that I have fixed up most of the way I want to and this includes a stock motor, headers, free flow cat, 2.25" pipe and a Flowmaster exhaust. It farts like Liberace but chokes like Ashlee Simpson. I'm trying to get all the 'free' power from it in a smog state so to match the exhaust, I plan to have a custom snorkel made that starts at the roof line with a forward facing hat (prefiltered and water separating) with 2.5" min pipe running into the fender in a aftermarket 350CFM filter before stacking up to the MAF (fardly 2+ inches, it's in another thread). I will have cleaner air through larger piping with positive pressure (if I am moving fast enough) through a filter that won't restrict it. I am certain it will net HP gains, help prolong the life of the motor and keep me from worrying about dipping a fender in some water occasionally. B
  7. Ya, I'm guessing fuel delivery problems... B
  8. Quiet frankly, in that application, I really don't know. I would think that the welds would be more prone to cracking due to shock than a homogeneous sheet. Also if the primary face/top/bottom was bent out of one sheet, it would be cleaner and look better than seams everywhere (obviously you can't bend everything). The advantage to welding would be patch type section replacement if it was damaged, where once you crease a radius (bend) there is no real way of fixing it. 3/16" will be plenty strong in either case and one seriously heavy bumper!! I seem to recall a discussion about fabing and the general consensus was 1/8" was plenty sufficient. B
  9. I believe that the thickness matters also since you can only effectively bend so much. Welding bonds the metals, while bending can fatigue it. A radius (bent) is stronger than a sharp corner though (welded). Without better understanding of what you are planning, I don't think that helps much. B
  10. True, but I had to neck down to 2.0" for the CARB legal cat. I went back to 2.25" diameter after that, but I suspect 2.0 would have been fine also. B
  11. The shop is Major Muffler on Dutton Ave in NW Santa Rosa. Older guy owns it, works on custom hot rods all day, not just mufflers either. Great guy and one of his sons works there (cut and lifted my ARB bumper to mount with a 2" lift), the other one owns Pro Crane if you need any serious sheit lifted... As for the pipe size, look at it this way. 1.75" diameter = 2.4 square inches cross section (stock IIRC) 2.00" diameter = 3.1 square inches cross section, 29% increase 2.25" diameter = 4.0 square inches cross section, 67% increase 2.50" diameter = 4.9 square inches cross section, 104% increase 2" is probably fine, with 2.25" overkill?? This comes down to opinion, but I use math. For a VG33 with 10% more displacement, 2.25" with 67% greater area seems fine to me... I am not a career exhaust tuner though. B
  12. Ok, go to the Garage section off of the main page, pinned towards the top is a Factor Service Manual thread. Go in there and read how/where to download a copy for your truck. Do it and then look it up. A study of the schematics will show you how it all works and a study of your truck will show what needs to be done. B
  13. I went with rattle can black. Simple, cheap, easy to touch up and can last for years if properly done. 2nd vote would be bedliner, I simply don't think anything else is worth the $... WAIT!! What aboot POR-15?? B
  14. I'd generally agree, but some people don't maintain their vehicles so they have short lives. Talking about the POs of course... B
  15. Ok, if you beef up the power by a significant factor, be prepared to run a SAS or change front end components constantly if you use 4WD. The strut front end wasn't exactly designed for 300hp and 33" tires... You are far better off pulling it (or buying another VG33), doing a little port/polish, cylinder hone, rings, cams, valve lap, intake and exhaust. That should put you a bit over 200hp easy and still be 100% reliable with no slash-and-burn modification. And seeing how much room there is between the block and the firewall, a little matters a lot. B
  16. There you have it. Correct spelling and correct values... Damn good guess 87p. B
  17. Tires are not perfectly size conforming. Here is a good site with details, reviews and actual tire diameters!! http://www.offroaders.com/tech/AT-MT-Tires/ B
  18. I don't know if the 96 have the same flex circuit board back as the 94-95s, but my initial guess would be a faulty ground, something the 94-95 can suffer from. B
  19. Hey there, where in Cali are you? Reason I ask is that I have most of a stock exhaust system and know of a great exhaust/fab shop nearby. Yes, 2.25 seems to be prefered, 2.0 is still an upgrade; I wouldn't go larger. I have Thorley headers, 2.25 pipe into a Magnaflow high flow cat and a Flowmaster Delta 60 muffler. It farts really well, but sounds a bit ricey at higher RPM. I'm hoping that will change when I get rid of my chrome exhaust tip... 2 or 4wd shouldn't matter for header fitment, but no, there aren't a lot of choices. Do not think that a decent smog tech won't notice the headers, they spotted and commented on mine instantly, but at least it was a compliment. B
  20. Yep. MaxStryker is the #6 or 7 reason that pathys are destroyed. See above. There seemed to be cudo's floating around, but I'll go ahead and say... "If your truck recovery involves a boat, you might be an idiot..." B
  21. Click on the black inverted RR logo in UNCCP's signature, it is a link to Rugged Rocks, an online parts source started and owned by Steeeeevo who is a great guy, member here and has good prices. I'm pretty sure he ships to Canadia... B
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