Precise1

I'm guessing Redding, Chico or somewhere like that... B

It's quite pleasant out, mid 80s in the afternoon... B

Rust on the frame and under the seats are both major problem areas. Hit both with a hammer and see what falls off... That's aboot all I know since I'm not from the rust belt and wouldn't buy a car with rust. B

No sheit, you'd see it if it was dark!! That can't be normal. It would probably run real clean though... B

^ That's a good break down. B

I had a similar leak at the EGR connection because the tube doesn't line up to the threaded bung perfectly. It threaded together correctly, but barely since it was under load and a wrench was used the entire way. I developed a tick under load, took it apart and put some Permatex Copper on the threads and re-assembled it. No more tick... Of course. Why even talk aboot leaks if you haven't checked the obvious? The rear most on the drivers side bolt on mine loosened up a bit until it leaked and needed re-torquing... Pretty much X2 on everything he said. Drive it so it heats and cools, vibrates, the gaskets cook, etc a few times than resnug the bolts, I almost guarantee a few will need it. Patience, the right tools and thinking about it will get it done every time. B

Damn, I'm having a hard time finding it myself. When the info gets posted, I'll copy it into the Part Links thread in the General area... B

I'm almost certain that this is the one I got, Magnaflow #39760... http://www.truckpartshub.com/product/magnaflow-39760-direct-fit-converter I haven't found any paperwork proving it yet, but I seem to recall that part number and there are only 2 models legal in Cali, the universal and the direct fit one I listed. I think the site bought it from is on my work emails so I'll try looking tomorrow. IIRC it was about $120 to my door so the link I listed isn't a bad price... B

IT IS NOW!! Updated with Rocky Road Outfitters for Thorley headers link... B

Also make sure your gas cap is holding pressure. 100 degrees creates vapor pressure... B

Both my precats have heat shields and actually, most of the piping is shielded quite well also. My experience is that it is the leaking flange that lights up and burns through the floorboard. The only other heat generator I could think of other than a leak... B

Absolutely!! As for the thanks, you are welcome, I'm glad it helped. Kind of the point here... None normally and even 7mm is odd. The sizes usually go from M6 to M8... Ok, that's just plain absurd!! Thanks for the update, it makes this a well detailed thread. Disconnecting the battery may have cleared the ECU and allowed some voltage to disipate?? I'd definitely still put the harness on though... B

Yes, you are absolutely right, I realized I had it backwards when I looked at it again... B

Cool, good job!! A proper weld will hold... (not a welder, but I know this) B

Well then, you are just a mechanic GOD!!! I've learned to walk away when I start getting pissed, or I'm bound to do more harm than good. That said, we have a spare car so rarely am I forced to repair something to a immediate deadline. It is set up this way on purpose... B

Bring friends, it isn't going to be easy... Interesting correlation, but I wonder if your pre-cat was clogged?? B

By the marks, it looked like the harmonic balancer has spun and galled the crank journal. From what you said, I would go with fill weld, match file (Pretty easy to do, when the pulley goes on, you are done) and tack weld the key in. One option you haven't considered is to cut another woodruff key slot 180 degrees from the damaged one. Then there is a combination of the two which is fill weld the entire existing slot and recut it in the same place... B

For example, we put Yokohama Geolander A/T tires on my wife's 99 R50. They are quite reasonably priced, less than many 'street' tires in fact, but do not appear aggressive. They handle well, are quiet, work well in wet conditions, don't negatively affect gas mileage from what I can tell and are probably superior to most 'street' tires in snow and dirt conditions. Here is the real point; why have a 4x4 if you don't give it a little better traction than the minivan that just passed you?? I highly recommend them for all around conditions and have read positive first hand reviews. What is there about these that Mom will have an issue with?? B

And this is it. Damn, I'm losing it!! No, not exactly, but it shouldn't be hard for me to look up so let me get back to you. Yes, it was a 2" Magnaflow high flow cat, going larger wasn't legal in Ca, 2" was the max and probably sufficient anyway. B

Worked for me... Just be a little bit patient. It is a pain and can take a few tries, but the right approach and staying calm gets the job done. Funny, my work has those too... B

Ahh, ok, I get it. That makes sense now... Best of luck to you two and I hope the move goes smoothly!! I'm born and raised Californian so snow is something you visit, not live in. For $9k you could buy and fix up a Pathy quite nicely and still have gas $ for a year or two... B

Both these may be part of the issue. Some PaceSetters have a restriction at the Y, from welding IIRC and the stock pipe doesn't allow much flow. Remember, with exhaust you want flow with little turbulance and the single choke point sets the gains for the whole system. That said, some back pressure is desirable for a daily driver AFAIAC. B

I have removed the pre-cat and gone with Thorley headers and a Magnaflow high flow cat. This system passes California smog so that is not a concern. I had a thread here that asked about the pre-cat but the answers weren't clear IIRC. Basically, they were more prevalent in the later years and the eastern/northern north america. It is for faster cataclysmic action in cold conditions from what I have gathered. There was no true rhyme or reason though... B

The wife's 99 R50 had acorn husks and mouse sheit filling the plug wells. I had to vacuum, dig, pry and wipe. Point is, it's the last step that matters so go get some long cotton swabs (medical supply store) and wipe around the plug before and after removal. You don't want crap dropping into the cylinder and you want to make sure the sealing surface is clean too... Oh, you should have the right tool in your under-seat tool bag, but if not, a 6" extension with a universal joint and the right spark plug socket should get you there. My advice is to use a mirror to see the plug and well, put the socket/extension on it and mark the free floating point with a marker n the fire wall. You will use this same alignment mark as reference when you hand thread in the new plug... B

It doesn't help, but I'd have them both in my driveway if you were local. Anyone?? B