Precise1

If it isn't raining when I get home early today I'll set you up. I have one mounted on my WD21 and another sitting in the sideyard, so it's pretty easy... B

x3 on the inline filter. I went with a spin off filter like an oil filter, but anything is 10x better than nothing in my book. Also, unless you have access to compressed air, I wouldn't put any fluid other than tranny fluid through the cooler as thats the best way to clear the internals (other than having a flushing machine) that I can think of. B

After just glossing this thread, I'm thinking you could be right. The good news is that it only takes 10 minutes to check... B

Agreed, cone filters and water do not mix well at all. Remove the mounting bracket for the airbox closest to the MAF, the box will sag down on that side (and rest on the fender?) and align much better. You might do a little bendy to the remaining brackets, but that's a matter of preference. Damn, I had forgotten about that Adam... B

I didn't look, but is there a diagnostic test for the KS in the FSM?? Yeah, over the years I've seen the KS code is almost always one of several, not stand alone. You are welcome. B

*waits* B

Nice work getting it all in one place!! I'm a fan of the Blitz 5 gallon metal ones. Readily available, fairly durable (I have one that's 30 years old), several mounting options available and not too spendy. B

Nice find, too bad they are so far away. I just found a local source for new, all metal jerry cans w/spouts for $65. It seems pricey but considering it is hard to find them instead of the plastic containers, I'll find some budget room for 1 or 2 before they disappear. B

Odds are that if something else is tripping the knock sensor code, it will post a code also. FYI the knock sensor doesn't have to be where it is located, a few people have relocated it. MaritimeMan installed a new one on his bell housing so consider that. Try plugging in a 'new' one to see if that keeps the code from coming up again first. B

I just thought it was clean aluminum... Do you want it to shine or just look metallic? Just bead blasting the paint off would leave a matte aluminum finish. B

I've heard complaints like Nunya's repeatedly. Will wheel spacers absolutely be a problem, probably not. Can they be a problem, definitely. Leave the spacers for show cars and trailer queens, use the proper hardware for what you are "beating the living piss out of it on a trail" (and a DD I assume). Really?? You, Dowser?? Really?? B

Leaf spring VS 5 link rear, different frame and a few other biggies... B

They change the gearing to compensate, just like they run huge tires to compensate for something else... B

I'm not going to comment on your choice of rims, but rather point out that I wouldn't recommend using wheel spacers and is 6mm difference in BS really going to be that big of a deal?? B

The destruction of the Torqueflight in my 1977 Fury was the end of of it's life so I can't really agree with you. B

Sorry, I don't know about that, but I have to ask... Have you checked/replaced the temperature sensor for the ECU? I understand this can effect fuel ratio considerably... B

Exactly why I don't have a roof basket and lights up there. Taller has it's own issues... B

Very good point as they are 'custom'. Several other people have had isues getting replacement parts for their Calmini front end components, from Calmini!! Not an ideal business model if you ask me... B

Good job starting down the road of maintaining your own vehicle (the basic things anyway). You save $ and gain satisfaction... As for holding the flashlight in your mouth, get one of these, they have 1000 uses other than working on cars. http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-HD33A1EN-3-LED-Headlight/dp/B00081GATG B

Thanks a lot Mom. Sorry, but I hate people who do stupid crap like that... B

^Same things I always say. Left hand drills, drill through first, the heat, vibration, torque and allowing the material to collapse on its self often does the trick. The left hand spiral type are ok for larger sizes, maybe 3/8 hole diameter and larger but I never use them on small bolts. The only other thing required is patience. Try to rush, short cut or or get frustrated and you will only make things worse... B

Actually, I think it was mid/late 1993 production year when they switched from square to round toothed sprockets but I don't have proof of that. 1994 and 1995 definitely have the round teeth, making the recommended replacement interval 105k miles instead of the 60k miles of the previous type. B

You are welcome. Read up on the How To's first to make sure you have all that is required. Many people also change the thermostat and bypass hose because it is behind/above the upper cover/waterpump and also change the crank and cam seals since you are right there anyway. B

Yup. f you valuse the motor, do not drive it until you do this. If you don't know if the timing belt has been changed, assume it hasn't been although the fact that the crank pulley seems to be backwards indicates that someone has been in that far already. Your 1994 will have the rounded tooth sprockets and the recommended change intervals is 105k miles and every 4 years (my 14 year old belt still looked good at 97k miles). The job isn't that hard so consider doing it yourself and there is a good write up by a Nissan mechanic in the Garage/How To section. B

90-100 lbs IIRC and no, don't use an impact gun unless it has an accurate torque setting or you use a torque adapter. I've broken a tire star on the side of the road trying to remove lug nuts and ever since then I torque my own lug nuts and by hand. Not like it's hard... B