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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Guilty as charged. Zero progress with mounting so far, but I hope to do some work this winter, including that. The damn rounded dash is the sign of a superior truck. Larger tapers on the center link, rounded timing belt gears, newer and probably lower mileage (not to mention the right number of doors) so you are just fine... This. For anyone with fab skills, and I know you do have, all you need is the guts and you can easily make a housing or mount it in the dash... B
  2. Obviously, don't drive it anymore. It really depends how many miles are on the engine and if you think you might have starved the motor (bearings) of oil. Does the dipstick pick up anything liquid down in the pan? Odds are a head gasket alone should fix you up, but lets cover all the bases... B
  3. I understand that the Chevy 4.3l V6 is a popular swap too... B
  4. Probably because he got tired of installing them all the time... No worries about the trade, the pathy wasn't enough for you off road so you traded it for a built wheeler, and one with style too. The PO probably traded across for something that he could still wheel but that was newer, more comfortable or whatever. Everyone got what they wanted. One thing is that I haven't heard much good about the Dana 20s, especially with a V8 pushing it. Hopefully I'm just misinformed. B
  5. I've heard putting some cheap oil in along with a quart of ATF (for the high detergent content) and running that for a bit is an excellent motor flush. Then there is always Seafoam that seems good when used correctly... No compression check?? B
  6. Yes, I am not sure what you are asking. Have you downloaded the FSM from the Garage section and looked at that section to familiarize yourself? B
  7. It took some searching but I found it. There are still odds and ends unaccounted for (and I know Simon has some pictures as well) but this is probably the majority of the information in one spot... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26160&st=0 B
  8. Yes, I did have the mounts modified. The lower ones were cut and welded back on with a 2" extension (2" body lift) and the uppers were cut off, switched sides and reattached inverted. This lines up almost perfectly. There is a thread somewhere to show all this...

  9. Sorry, I missed the gist the first time. As KiwiPete said, a snorkel is as cold and pure an intake as is realistically possible. If you have a forward facing hat for the snorkel, this is the max air flow you are going to get; the faster you drive the more 'ram air' effect you get. Most traditional cold air intakes scoop up air from up front/down low which is a bad idea for anything that sees harsh weather or off road. Even just being in up front is not desired. That said, how often do you get into water more than a foot deep?? B
  10. I do not recall knowing the stock air box CFM rating, other than it is more restrictive than aftermarket units. Does that mean it is not enough?? I seem to recall Mr510 saying that the stock VG30 only needs 280CFM and this seems to agree?? (barely knows what he is talking aboot) Sheit, that didn't work. Go here and enter 2, 3000, 6000 and I left the volumetric efficiency at the 83% that was default because I have no clue. http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html Personally, I'd rather have an excessive CFM air box due to max readings are always compromised, simply by the filtration medium clogging from use if nothing else. Also, using a tall cold air intake (snorkel ) with a high CFM filter unit will allow me to make the best use of the Thorley headers. Torque arguments aside, I have generally followed the mantra of taking a reliable motor and making it breathe and fart freely for the most significant, cost effective gains without losing reliability or smogability. When I do my intake mod, I'll bet it accelerates, tows and climbs rocks better than a stock pathy. B
  11. Bent or binding linkage and bad alignment can make steering feel stiff. Something as simple as a bent idler arm could do it. I recommend you look into it more. To actually answer your question though, I recall a discussion on this before but I don't think it was ever done. I'll search later if I remember... B
  12. http://www.ecae.com/alt1.html 140 amp alternator with a single V pully. It's not an issue. Many people have swapped in 125 amp Quest alternators and switched the pulley to single V without issue. As for theoretical power transfer limits, I suspect it is complex with many variables such as belt length, belt contact area, belt composition and material quality, belt speed, pulley diameters, etc... B
  13. That's probably a fair price for wheel bearings provided it is done right. A decent mechanic will have no trouble telling the difference between wheel bearings and ball joints, it is very obvious where the slop is coming from... B
  14. When I have my snorkel made, I plan to go with this unit, I'm pretty sure I can make it fit... http://store.spectreperformance.com/products/productdetail/part_number=9833/2231.0.1.1 If you already have a K&N filter, you may as well go with the Apollo unit, but this might affect you so double check that you won't have any issues. B Oh, I'd have to check one out, but I wouldn't trust the water resistant sock. It merely limits the amount that gets to the filter, but if it is more than a splash, I suspect you could still suck up enough water to have a bad day.
  15. I have a 9x12" granite surface plate in my garage for GP. That's why I recommended glass, most people have a glass table or something... B
  16. Ideally, you don't want any play because if you can note some by hand with it lifted, imagine how much it moves when you hit a pothole at 35mph. How does it feel when you drive and how much are you seeing? B
  17. Find something smooth and flat (a piece of glass is probably the best your find), a flashlight and some feeler gauges. Put the manifold on it's sealing surface and test it for rocking, look for gaps using the light and measure them with the feeler gauges... B
  18. Welcome Bud!! From memory so verify all this please but... If you have the newer 'push button' 4wd, Warn hubs might not be for you. IIRC the CVs need to be turning also to properly lubricate the transfer case when you are in one of the 4wd modes. Look around to see if you can find this info and let me know if you can't and I'll try to dig it up... B
  19. Nothing about the English/'Standard' system is common sense so you lack nothing! It all must be memorized not extrapolated!! I know this one due to being old and having been there before... B
  20. You are kidding, right?? ft/lbs to in/lbs is as simple as multiplying by 12... B
  21. Ok, I'm glad you got your info. It was raining yesterday... I'd sell you my spare unit, but shipping the pig would be rediculous. B
  22. Try PMing beastpath to see who bought his and the instructions... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27840&st=0&p=522183&hl="rancho%20uca"&fromsearch=1entry522183 This might help you also. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22937&st=0&p=409383&hl="rancho%20uca"&fromsearch=1entry409383 As far as I know, the Rancho UCAs haven't been made for a years and are fairly rare but maybe email someone at Rancho for information?? B
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