Precise1

Yes x3 While copper is a better conductor than platinum, platinum is also highly conductive so I think "much more effectively" applies correctly. I'll defer to your superior experience in all of that, being as I don't work in a shop and have never even owned a turbo. The only thing I was calling BS to is that plugs temperatures will be different due to construction material. In reality, plugs in the same heat category will perform similarly, regardless of construction material, due to the design. That is the whole point to the heat code... Applied to a Pathfinder, it really makes little difference. I had one drive to my house for a tune up, and it ran/started fine with 260k miles on it. All the plugs had a gap of .09-.1"; I suspect they were the original factory plugs. I've run the standard, the V power and the G power (platinum) and they all work fine; the platinum seem to stay the cleanest. Applied to turbos, if you wanted heat, why not just install a platinum plug of a higher heat rating? I did think that turbos ran cooler plugs though... B

I have to question this... To say that the platinum plugs are colder doesn't really make sense as the heat range of the plug is designed, and incorporated into the part number. Example... NGK BKR6ES (standard) NGK BKR6EGP (platinum) The 6 in each is heat range, the lower the number, the higher the heat IIRC. A plug either runs in the same temp range, or it is a different part number. Then there is how timing affects the temp; advanced timing tends to run hotter, so a cooler plug might be suitable to avoid detonation. None of this really applies to a low compression, low RPM, non induction/turbo, regular unleaded burning Pathfinder though... Maybe this is a specific BMW/performance thing, just like Nissans prefer NGK plugs, but I'm have to call BS when you say copper is hotter than platinum when both plugs are rated for the same heat range. That just doesn't make sense Bud. As for difference in cost, it is what, a buck a plug? Then they last longer as well, and even if you change them every 60k miles (probably overkill), you are out an extra $25 over 1/4 million miles? Not really even worth talking about... B

So, a set in two months... Are you installing them correctly, to the correct torque? Could you be getting defective bushings? Who makes them? I don't believe I have ever heard of anyone else having this issue with poly bushings... B

Yeah, I always change motors because of oil filter locations! You do have a point though, they did learn and vastly improve that on what is essentially the same block. Odd that it actually takes a smaller filter though, IIRC. B

So, just for reference... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40572-1999-pathfinder-rough-idle/ Did you ever download the FSM? Section EC (page 54) has a good diagnostic flow chart for 'Hard or impossible to start when engine is cold'. Too much to type, so that is where I would start. B

Thanks, but for now I'll let things stand. I am talking to Steve, and I suspect he would prefer his response to stay as a rebuttal/defense, and the picture you posted/your observation is quite pertinent to that. If Steve wishes, I will clean the whole thing up, but sometimes things need to be said as well, at least in a calm manner. Thank you for posting those links and getting things back on track. B

Difference of opinion/misapplication/poor installation aside, we all need to remain civil; there is no acceptable reason to be otherwise. Steve, as a long time member of NPORA, you know better. I understand that you are trying to protect your reputation and that you back your products, but since you are too old for this crap, please act like it. I edited your post, if you have more to say, take it to PMs, or we can start a thread in the Dispute Resolution section where each involved party can post, and no others. Moving forward, I'd say that the above photo speaks for itself. As a machinist with 20 years of experience and having machined virtually every plastic there is, I can say that it is unusual for HDPE to split like that, especially under a simple compression load. There is obviously something else going on to cause that... As for the OP, I don't know who makes the best spacers, but as was said, there are a few quality sources, it comes down to price, location and your preferred material. B

So, as someone who works with tools for a living, I can testify that these are pure sheit, but they'll get the job done a time or two... The world is your oyster security fastener remover kit. http://www.harborfreight.com/33-pc-security-bit-set-68459.html B

I'll go out and look this evening when it isn't 100 degrees, but I'd guess that you have had a short somewhere or have way too much unfused draw. The amp draw to melt plastic like that is probably starter related, but something is definitely wrong! I damn near sprayed my monitor with beer when I read that! 40+ amps through unfused 16 gauge wire? That whole run was a fusible link! Mind bogglingly stupid aside, the power loss probably meant those lights were only putting out 75% of rated lumens anyway... I'm currently toying around with a simple/small photo-voltaic battery backup system, and while the charge from the panels is minor, the power from the 2 12 volt, deep cycle, 90 amp/hr batteries linked in parallel is nothing to play with. Everything there is 2 gauge wire, shielded and protected terminals, etc. I can pull as much as 150+ amps peak (normally won't do 10% of that), but wiring is something to overkill, not just throw together! B

Also, if you are concerned about popping out a coil while flexing (You Animal!), drill a hole (and deburr) in the shock mount spring perch, and loop a heavy duty wire tie or two through it and to the top coil of the spring as a keeper. That should make the difference between driving, and chasing your suspension down a hill on foot... B

With metric bolt grades, there is 8.8, 10.9, 12.9. Harder is not always better, depending on application, but in this case I have to ask what you had installed; 8.8 or 10.9? I know you wheel hard, so could you have snapped a bolt that was too hard to yield? B

Yes, that ground strap is supposed to be secure, and no, that isn't the stock fastener by a long shot. I've driled and tapped more holes than most people have seen, but in a machine shop, not on a Pathy engine block. Are you asking advice on how to deal with them? Yeah, by the looks of it, someone cheated Gramps and should be horse whipped. Unless Gramps agreed to a quick fix; some old timers do that, my dad included... B

The FSM is available for download from the pinned thread in the Garage section, that will have the maintenance schedule in it. That said, unless there is documentation to support that it has been done, when I buy a vehicle to keep, I change all the fluids, lube the front end/drive train, inspect the brakes, check the wheel bearings and front end, maybe rotate the tires. That should set a good base line and make you familiar with the vehicle, maybe allowing you to spot something like oil leaks, etc. WE NEED PICTURES!! B

Looks like they know what they are doing... Yeah, I didn't get much mileage out of the dialogue, but the pictures speak as well. I hope he did a little more front end work than just that idler arm brace though. B

Yep! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/7466-how-to-prevent-fire-clean-blower-resistors/ Glad you caught it before there was a real problem... B

Mine is in the side yard awaiting a restore, I've owned it for almost 20 years and refuse to sell it. It will probably be my only bike soon, and it looks exactly like that picture; the S model in black with the lower cowling, 2 two temp heated hand grips and detachable hard bags (not pictured). Yes, BMW bikes are something to aspire to, and hopefully, own. B

It is in the pinned thread in the Garage section, should be the first link of the first post and download away... B

That would pretty much mean you have a wiring issue. I'd start by testing the connector wiring and going backwards from there. Did you download the FSM yet? B

Yes and yes. See what you can find with the advanced search function (if you can call it that ). B

The Pathy (WD21) and the Hardbody (D21) are almost identical from the front doors to the front bumper, so I believe we are still the best source for most things. There are a few D21 owners floating about here already, and many Pathy owners have owned them. You can head over to Nico Club as well, but there might not be as much traffic, and I hear that it isn't always as friendly. B

Not that I know of... Gives me an idea though, let me talk to the other staff. B

Glad to help, that is the main point here. It isn't a pricey part IIRC, but you'll need new bushings as well. Hopefully they cups aren't damaged. Good luck, and call out if you need help/info... I'm just north of San Francisco myself, but there are members dotted all along the coast. B

Being in CA, you have a chance of finding a serviceable one, but generally speaking, these are hard wear items so new isn't a bad idea if you plan to keep the vehicle. 300 miles, north or south? Might be someone near... B

Pretty easy, really. IIRC, remove the lower dash panel that wraps under the steering wheel, the cluster trim, then the cluster... B

Yeah, won't load for me either. Doesn't sound good... I went to advanced search (the sun looking thing to the right) and searched for rancho steering stabilizer http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&section=search&do=search&fromsearch=1 Then rancho steering damper http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&section=search&do=search&fromsearch=1 That should do you... B