vengeful

If it starts slipping, then you've got to worry. Put a heavy duty trans oil cooler on it, and you'll extend the life immeasurably.

You know....your service manual or owners manual will probably tell you this.

:tonguefinger: Liar.

Eh, not really. More braking surface area creates more friction. More friction creates more stopping force. More stopping force stops the vehicle faster.

I suppose he could mean the extra approximately 6.28318 inches in circumference. LOL.

Genius...nah. Lucky guess. I have come across just about every noise imaginable in the R50 suspension though. Everything from creaks to squeaks, bangs to booms, and clunks to cracks. Some of them are rather unnerving.

Yes, if it were the bearing, you'd get a whump whump whump sound while turning, as opposed to a clunking sound. (Don't ask how I know...) If you're getting a clunk, it's going to be either the TOP nut on the strut itself (NOT the three that hold the mount to the strut tower, but the nut that holds the strut to the mount), or the strut mount itself. First thing you should check is that top nut (it's going to be under a little rubber cover in the center of the strut mount).

That, my friend, is exponentially better. Especially from someone who knew you before, too.

That's because you mentioned both a Husband, AND an Xterra in your intro.

You can say that again, Axel.

I'm still jealous of the 90+ 2-door....We didn't get many of them over here, and even fewer yet with the light bar.

Hah!!!

My left headlight always goes out before the right one. I don't know why, it just does. That said, I've been using Silverstars for a while now, and like them a lot. They definitely project farther down the road than standard halogens, and light up the edges of the road better. I can see road signs farther away, too. I like them, so I'm going to continue using them. While they may not be the epitome of the best of the best of all headlights, they're a great option dollar for dollar. I'm going to keep using them until I find a better value.

It's the gremlins.

Can you?? Sure, if you have a big enough saw. Should you? Absolutely not!! Those provide a great deal of structural rigidity to the back end of the truck.

That information will be in your owners manual. Careful, the first time you open it, the spine might crack a bit.

You can try to get a set of OEM flares from a dealership if you're really that motivated. That route will cost you though.

Well, for starters, this thread is over three years old, and the person you're asking is no longer active on the forums. Other than that, no, I cannot say definitively whether the Osram bulbs are better than the Sylvania. However, I will say this. They are owned and manufactured by the same company. The Sylvania Silverstars are designed and manufactured to meet strict U.S. DOT regulations; whereas the Osram bulbs are designed and manufactured to meet European DOT regulations. The Osram Bulbs do NOT meet U.S. DOT Regulations, and therefore are NOT legal for on-road use in the U.S. Most of the light bulbs that you see on eBay, with the exception of the known brands, also do not meet DOT regulations, and are illegal for road use. Food for thought.

I got the email notification that you had replied, and I thought, "Oh, sweet! There's my answer." ....lol

I recently (ok, so it was like 6 months ago) broke one of my TJM Turn Signal housings. I've been trying to get a replacement now for, well, 6 months with no luck. I have called just about all of the TJM retailers in the U.S. that I know of, and nobody has them. TJM has pulled out of the U.S. market, so there is no support here now. I could, in theory, have one shipped from Australia, but it will likely take a rather long time, and be quite costly. As an alternative option, I am looking into the possibility of replacing the front turn signals with sealed LED lights. Does anyone have any insight as to where I might find one that will be able to be mounted behind the TJM bumper and look appropriate? Or, does anyone happen to know of a TJM retailer in the U.S or North America that just so happens to have a complete 428IND Indicator Housing laying around?

While you're in there, you might as well go ahead and to the Power Valve Screws... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14826 If I had to guess, I would say that one of the screws came loose and got into the valvetrain...check it out.

Same axles, same part number.

Good info.

Also, be careful when you route your air lines. They can be snagged on stuff, pulled loose, rub against stuff and if they're subjected to too much flexure, can develop fatigue and crack.

There were small differences in the differential gearings, however the range offerings were the same. WD21 - 4.325 and 4.625 R50 - 4.363 and 4.636. The transmission bell housings were identical, as were the TX10 transfer cases. However, the gearing for the R50 transmission was a little higher than the WD21 tranny. If you throw the WD22 (Xterra) in the mix, as the successor to the WD21 Pathfinder, then you get a whole other range of drivetrain possibilities. R50 Transmission Gearing with a VG33E, a different range of tranny gears with the VG33ER (Supercharged), 4.363s, 4.636s, and 4.90s.