vengeful

D'agh. I always reverse those.

Yes, your first question is correct. The smaller the amount of backspacing, the closer the inside edge of the wheel is to the wheel mounting surface, which correlates to the farther "out" the wheel will stick from the wheel hub. To clarify, a 3.75" backspacing will work even without the lift. 3.75" backspacing may not be necessary unless you're trying to clear 32" tall tires. If you're only going to a 31" tire, you don't need to space the wheel out that far, and the stock wheels will work. What tire size are you planning on running? What size are the wheels that you're going to run?

Firstly, it's the REAR control arm bushings that cause the "death-wobble," so an alignment isn't necessary. You should probably go ahead and change ALL the bushings now though, or you'll be back in there doing more later. Without fixing the underlying problem that is causing your tires to wear unevenly, putting new tires on is a waste of money, because those tires will wear unevenly, too. Fix the problem, get a GOOD alignment (I've always had very good luck with Sears, oddly enough), and your tire wear should even itself out eventually.

Complete rip-off. It's a 5 cent resistor. It tricks your ECM into thinking you're getting less airflow so it cuts the fuel down...basically just leaning out your engine and making your truck run like crap, which is then read by the O2 sensors, and the ECM compensates by triggering a check engine light saying that your MAF is malfunctioning, then runs you in closed loop, which uses more fuel.

Well, you can fit 285s with some 16x8s with 4" or less backspacing. If you go with any higher backspacing, then the tire will contact the spring perch on the strut. 285s WILL require that you trim some. Most people just go with a 265.

Nice catch. That's definitely a mistake. 4.5" would be 0 offset on a 9" wheel. 5" would be 0 on a 10" wheel.

Hmm...sounds like it could be Steering Rack Bushings...or maybe Tie Rod Ends. Yep, still thinking Steering Rack Bushings or maybe Tie Rod Ends. DING DING DING DING DING....We have a winner!!! Steering rack should NOT move at all...this could create a potentially unsafe situation where your steering rack becomes completely detached from the subframe preventing you from steering AT ALL. The steering rack bushings are a very common replacement part on R50s, at about your mileage. I had to replace mine at about 140k. The drivers side bushing gets it much worse than the passenger side bushing, because it's directly under the oil filter, and you can't help but spill oil out of it. We all know what dirty 5W-30 does to rubber bushings! Fix them first. It takes like 15 minutes, and they're about $20 from the dealer.

Mine is one piece, and I like it that way. TJM redesigned the bumpers later in production to reduce shipping/freight costs, and to make manufacture easier. The two peice bumpers are the newer design, but I think you lose a little bit of rigidity because of it.

I'll never own a vehicle without a hatch of some sort. If I need a vehicle with 4-doors, it'll either be a 5-door, a wagon, or an SUV. I see no real reason to have a 4-door car with a trunk. They're only good for carrying people, you can't fit anything in them, they don't get that great of fuel economy, and their performance isn't that great. They're very mundane... But then again, I don't have to justify my opinions to you...so...

Saw one in person the other day, and it doesn't look THAT bad. It doesn't ooze Nissan like the last Maxima's did, but rather it harks to a bit of Lexus and BMW design. I guess they're gunning for more upscale buyers with it. I would never buy a sedan, they're just so impractical, but that's my opinion.

If you measure the backspacing, you can use the above chart to determine your offset. If I'm remembering correctly, I think the backspacing of the 7JJx15 Alloys (SE wheels) is 4.75", but I'm not 100%. 4.75" would equate to approximately a +20 offset.

Usually, when you order struts alone, they just come as struts. The covers and top-hats are sold separately. Do NOT buy the KYB strut mounts, they will disintegrate on you in a matter of months. The OEM Nissan ones are the best, and really the only option there. Though, they are rather expensive, they're worth it. They should both come with the top nuts, as it's not recommended to re-use them, but if they don't have them, you can source it from the dealer. When I received my struts from Tire Rack, they were partially compressed (to ride height), so I couldn't tell you one way or the other. I will say that I could NOT compress them by hand though. The KYB GR-2s are very stiffly valved.

My TJM was plowed into a couple of small cars, a stone wall, a VERY large rock (Pizza Rock at Rausch Creek for those who know it). And it's no worse for the wear. A couple scuffs, but no damage to speak of.

T-15 is simply the Style of bumper, not the part number. Each bumper is vehicle specific, so no, you can't just find one from another vehicle.

ET is Offset. Offset is measured from the center line of the wheel, in mm. -5ET means that the wheel mounting surface of the rim is 5MM towards the inside edge from center. Which translates into approximately 4" backspacing on an 8.5" wheel.

eBay? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Black-Nissa...sspagenameZWDVW

The Erection Before Time.

The Forbidden Erection.

Congrats dude...I think he'll end up going by Erik...

Sorry there Colby, but you were beat to it!

Erection Attacks!

^Needs a girlfriend <Needs a girlfriend \/Needs a girlfriend

Nickelback - Gotta Be Somebody

The Passion of the Erection....or should that be The Erection of The Christ?

Um, yeah, it's held on by 4 immediately obvious bolts. Just get under there and look, it's not that hard.