vengeful

If you're sure you can't use an Optima, try an Exide Orbital. Same concept as the Optima. You may also want to look into Odyssey batteries. They're not cheap, but there's a reason for it. However, I've seen plenty of 03/04s with Optimas, so I know it can be done, just might take a little creativity on your part.

It sounds like it's in Limp Mode due to one of the numerous problems that is triggering the MIL Indicator. Have the DTCs read and let us know what they are. We can't really help you any further than what we already have without knowing the codes. It's also possible, however unlikey, that since the truck was abused so badly, and neglected so severely, that the timing chain has stretched and there's too much slack which is throwing off the timing... But yeah, definitely get it out of that shop. Another idea for ya. Some Nissan dealers will offer a free 100-point inspection that includes scanning codes, they'll also give you an estimate on how much it would cost to have them fix it - but you can do it yourself a lot cheaper if you're mechanically inclined. If your local dealer offers this service, you can bring it in and have them tell you everything that's wrong with it, then you can know exactly what needs fixed.

Yowch....that's pretty gnarly dude. Definitely going to be a badass scar!

Well, he said that he may buy a newer one in the future, and 15s don't really work on the newer ones, unless the brake pads are half worn. 16s would make his life easier if he were to switch the wheels over to a newer R50.

As has already been said, it's your rear lower control arm bushings. I would recommend replacing all of the suspension bushings, as well as the steering rack bushings. Since it's an LE, it's got the Bose Stereo. Those are problematic, and very common to fail. Just buy an aftermarket unit to replace it, you'll be happier in the long run. As said before, could be the master switches on the drivers door. This could be due to a number of things. Get the codes pulled and post all of the MIL Codes for us, we'll be able to help you further. e.g. IACV valve, MAF sensor, TPS, just to name a few... Was the truck doing this before you went through the lake and killed the engine? Sounds like you ruined a MAF. This could also be due to your control arm bushings. Replacing those will tighten up the entire vehicle. Also, it could be the u-joints on your driveshaft. Fuse, or clock....or the wires came unplugged.

You've got these wheels, correct? 15x6.5" Steel wheels, backspacing is 4.75".

Yep, that's especially common among the Import crowd with their cold air intakes sitting 3" off the ground. LOL. Oh yeah, by the way, Alex (not alexrex), how's your hand man?

PWND!!! Nice one Tyler!

Grown, like....Brown with hints of green.

I think the more accurate color would be Grown.

POWA SHIFT!!! VTEEEEC! LMAO.

My new rig!!!! No, I couldn't find one in white...

Two words...Max Stryker - 38.5" boggers on his R50. Two more words....Tyler M. - VH45 V8 and a SAS... Just takes a little more creativity to get it done, and it's so much more impressive when it is!!

That sucks Alex. Be careful man! Heal up soon!

Yeah, a little bit...Of course, I hit the dollar limit TWICE on that fill up. $4.98/gallon. $50 limit. Jerks.

All R50 Pathfinders are equipped with a 21 1/8 gallon fuel tank. Approximately 21.1 gallons. The most I've ever been able to squeeze into mine, even after running around for a week on the fuel light, is 20.4 gallons though.

I've got an 8-Ball on my t-case. It'll work.

Can't really see much in that picture...but thanks....looks like the TREs are good, maybe adjusted a bit long judging by the toe of your truck. Unlikely, but it's possible. They are very tough. I've never had a problem finding used knuckles either... I'm thinking the most likely happening is that the forward LCA mounts at the frame bent, or the frame itself bent where the LCA mounts, causing the wheel to be lopsided. However, without a picture showing that, I can't tell for sure. Oh, duh...obvious point...did you check the centerlink? Though typically when they bend, the wheels toe in, but with the new TREs, it may be so far out of whack that it could do that... Check the t-bars?

That's probably the same parts guy who suggested that I upgrade the radiator on my old 1968 Beetle. I'm guessing you went to 4 different locations of the same chain? Try a different chain!

Well...if everything was in spec, the wheel wouldn't be cocked like that... There's something you're missing... Can you pull off the wheel and take a picture of the suspension to give us a closer look?

Did you check that your control arms aren't bent? - Tie Rods need to be adjusted properly. - Did you check where the control arms mount to the frame for bending? Something is WAY out of whack there...

Weird....Crazy people with their crazy prices... Maybe the $179 is a bundle package price or something, or the $99 is like an introductory price? Either way, it's a lot of money for something that can be done with a $25 clinometer... Hmm...I'm not finding it on ACs site anymore, but they're showing this digital one for $172.50...yikes!

Um...it's $179...but yeah, not cheap. I paid $25 for mine...haha.

Well....in order to replace the bushings, you have to remove the links. It'll take much less time to just replace the links... Then, you could put the poly bushings in the old ones, and sell them. Don't forget to get new nuts and bolts, as you'll probably have to cut the old ones off.

Those would work. I typically use the frame on both ends. Just behind the front wheels where the control arms mount and just in front of the rear LCA mounts.