vengeful

Topping out the struts isn't a big issue. It's more of a minor annoyance. You're not going to cause any premature wear/damage to the struts by topping them out, provided you get quality struts. However, if you overextend the CVs, you're going to bind them up, could break a CV or bind up your front diff.

Found a pic that sort of shows it.

Exactly. And it contacts the power steering tensioner bracket, which prevents a proper seal from being made with the block.

Your steering rack bushings are pretty deteriorated dude. You should probably replace them before they disappear like mine did, giving you 3/4" of lateral play in your steering rack...SCARY.

Well...if you're going 15", just get a floatation 32" tire. If you go with 16", the thread title is your size.

Hey Pezzy, didn't you run into the same problem 3 years ago?

How bout now?

How bout now? Done yet?

So...are you done yet?

So did you get this done yet?

Nope. You just have to be careful where you drill. On the subframe side, go at the outside of the subframe, so you can access through the LCA mounts, and don't interfere with your steering rack. On the front part, it isn't underneath the radiator, and there's a flat piece directly in front of the a/c condensor that is where the holes will come through. If I still had my truck, I'd take a pic and show ya's. If we do it on Mike's I'll be sure to bring my camera.

What I did for my skidplates after I snapped the bolts off in the holes, was simply drill new holes through the cross members and use a nut on the other side. Also, Mike, I've got an extractor set, and we could have a go at them when we play with your diff.

The strut mounts/bearings they sell are the KYBs.

So, you're telling me that you've put 80,000 miles, on the QX4 that you hardly ever drive, in less than 2 years? Again...I call BS.

Oh yeah? I call your bluff.

Don't complain about the oil filter on the VG33, until you've tried to get to the oil filter on a B18C1. You can't even SEE the thing, let alone get a filter wrench on it. I spent about 20 minutes feeling around for it. It's mounted sideways on the block, so no matter WHAT you do, you spill oil all over the exhaust manifold.

Well, the K&N and Mobil1 oil filters are 100% the same, except that the K&N has a nut welded to the end to make it easier to remove it. They're overpriced for what they are, and the NAPA Gold, which is made by Wix, is actually among the best oil filters available in terms of filtration capability. If it's workin for you, why change it?

Air.

You wouldn't have to relocate it, but it would involve running wires to the other side. I guess it wouldn't be too difficult if you could get your hands on all the parts.

You get what you pay for. The cheap lights will work, but not very well. The more expensive lights have more R&D time into their reflectors, come with better electrical circuitry and are of a higher quality so they'll last longer. You could compromise, and get a set of Hellas.

I will not order something from an online store that I cannot talk to a human being first, whether on the phone, or face-to-face. http://www.sierraexpeditions.com - Good alternative for more generic stuff to AC. Not as much Nissan specific stuff, but they're getting there.

I've had bacon nearly every day this week....MMM...

Moved this to the SAS forum for ya.

Did you check your TREs? Steering Rack bushings? Subframe?

Have your truck 4-wheel aligned and have a full suspension inspection performed. Or, crawl around underneath and look for something bent. When I bent my rear lower link, the steering wheel pointed crooked as well because the truck was actually crab-walking due to the mis-aligned REAR axle. Something is bent or out of whack. Get it fixed or you're going to be eating up your tires rather quickly.