vengeful

Check the link I posted above, eh? There's also a How-To Thread here in the Garage section...

Well, that snorkel was designed around the RHD R50, with the aerial on the left side, so it would have to be made to clear that....

Buy the Navara snorkel and do what I did, maybe?

You can....I'm browsing in Bacon Vision right now.....mmmmm bacon.

I had to pull out a hacksaw to take it apart when I stripped down the truck. It sealed up just fine, almost too well. I got a plastic bag stuck on the snorkel inlet on the highway and the truck damn near stalled out. I did have to angle the tube that came out of the snorkel into the fender, and use a flex-hose to go into the engine bay, because I didn't want to cut the Unibody chassis structure (like the australian one requires you do). It didn't line up perfectly with the fender, but I still think it looked a lot better than the goofy one from AU that sits on top of it.

2 posts up.

Reminds me vaguely of the rig from I Am Legend...LOL. Killer job there Colby. You've definitely done `er justice!

Well...I turned off a Paved Road, clicked in the hubs, pulled on the t-case lever and I was away....the rest is history.

This club shall henceforth be named: Nissan Pathfinder Off-Road and Bacon Appreciation Association.

No? http://fnd4pth.com/chic02/Pathy/snorkel.htm

Nice dude! That looks killer!

I've got a Lincoln WeldPak 3200HD. It's the biggest 115V welder lincoln sells. They say it'll do 5/16" with flux, but I've never tried anything over 3/16" with it. It also has the ability to accept gas, or flux core for true MIG or flux welding. I don't see it on the Home Depot website anymore, though...

That's what I did on my 99, too. Though, I pulled the plate off, drilled a 1" hole, threw a grommet in there, and used that. I can't wait to see it, dude!

Dean...That's not bent... THAT's bent!

Or something else...I recall that he bought them from Tyler for the same deal you got Mike...What a joker.

I flat out refuse to give in. I will never have a myspace account.

PM me.

Well...this thread IS in the R50 Section...

D'agh. I always reverse those.

Yes, your first question is correct. The smaller the amount of backspacing, the closer the inside edge of the wheel is to the wheel mounting surface, which correlates to the farther "out" the wheel will stick from the wheel hub. To clarify, a 3.75" backspacing will work even without the lift. 3.75" backspacing may not be necessary unless you're trying to clear 32" tall tires. If you're only going to a 31" tire, you don't need to space the wheel out that far, and the stock wheels will work. What tire size are you planning on running? What size are the wheels that you're going to run?

Firstly, it's the REAR control arm bushings that cause the "death-wobble," so an alignment isn't necessary. You should probably go ahead and change ALL the bushings now though, or you'll be back in there doing more later. Without fixing the underlying problem that is causing your tires to wear unevenly, putting new tires on is a waste of money, because those tires will wear unevenly, too. Fix the problem, get a GOOD alignment (I've always had very good luck with Sears, oddly enough), and your tire wear should even itself out eventually.

Complete rip-off. It's a 5 cent resistor. It tricks your ECM into thinking you're getting less airflow so it cuts the fuel down...basically just leaning out your engine and making your truck run like crap, which is then read by the O2 sensors, and the ECM compensates by triggering a check engine light saying that your MAF is malfunctioning, then runs you in closed loop, which uses more fuel.

Well, you can fit 285s with some 16x8s with 4" or less backspacing. If you go with any higher backspacing, then the tire will contact the spring perch on the strut. 285s WILL require that you trim some. Most people just go with a 265.

Nice catch. That's definitely a mistake. 4.5" would be 0 offset on a 9" wheel. 5" would be 0 on a 10" wheel.

Hmm...sounds like it could be Steering Rack Bushings...or maybe Tie Rod Ends. Yep, still thinking Steering Rack Bushings or maybe Tie Rod Ends. DING DING DING DING DING....We have a winner!!! Steering rack should NOT move at all...this could create a potentially unsafe situation where your steering rack becomes completely detached from the subframe preventing you from steering AT ALL. The steering rack bushings are a very common replacement part on R50s, at about your mileage. I had to replace mine at about 140k. The drivers side bushing gets it much worse than the passenger side bushing, because it's directly under the oil filter, and you can't help but spill oil out of it. We all know what dirty 5W-30 does to rubber bushings! Fix them first. It takes like 15 minutes, and they're about $20 from the dealer.