vengeful

That sucks dude...I'm in the same boat...going on 5 months now... The Smart car dealership down here is looking for a salesperson. I know that doesn't help you much, but I sent in my resume. LOL.

You want a nice dose of WTF...youtube search Woman Fart....

Igloo maintenance! LMAO

Discounttiredirect.com - UPS Ground shipping is free/included in their price. Besides, car tires shipped from Tire Rack are usually about $35-45 for a set of 4...not bad, really.

Then why is she having trouble? :idea:

Yeah, that's nothing a good set of snow tires won't fix. Snow tires will also help with stopping...but they won't keep the person behind her from plowing into her.

They also list a 3.2L V6 Gas.... Those look kind of cheap, to be honest.

Blizzaks. Take a look at the Hankook iPike, too. We use those on the Rally Car and they work really well.

1/2" Grade 8 bolts will do fine. The only reason my strut tower broke was I launched the truck out of a sink-hole on OBX at 30mph and slammed the front end down extremely hard. Insurance covered it, oddly enough! You think I'm going to wheel the Acura? LMAO!

Damn, I knew MZ was an old fart, but WOW! Good on ya, makin it to 100!

Granted I was more concerned with not getting sucked into a Vortex than my tires at that particular moment... But a little bit of research revealed that the Dunlops were actually S-Rated (112mph).

DISCLAIMER: The below is a rough approximation. The figures calculated are in no way determined to be accurate. Please review the Notes at the bottom. Let's see here. Of course we're just estimating, but, the advertised curb weight of an average R50 is ~4300lbs. The weight distribution is 62/38 F/R. 62% of 4300lbs is 2666lbs. Assuming unequal distribution left/right*, on a 8% difference, that means that 54% of the weight is on the drivers front, and 46% of the frontal weight is bearing on the passengers front. Meaning that the drivers front strut is supporting 33.5% of the total vehicle weight, or approximately 1450lbs. Consider the diameter of the strut mount bolts, at 10mm (about 3/8"). There are three bolts supporting the strut mount to the vehicle, which means that each 10mm bolt is supporting up to 484lbs at any given moment. Now, the forces exerted on that bolt, are the weight supported multiplied by any acceleration acting on that bolt. Gravity, suspension harmonics, suspension movement, etc. The acceleration due to gravity is 32ft/sec^2 using US units (of course the calculations are easier using SI/Metric units, but Ft/Lbs/Sec are easier for most people to understand. Each bolt, under maximum strut extension is seeing over 3570PSI of force!! Let's also not forget what happens when the truck is compressing the struts, that force will go up exponentially - so much so, in fact, that my own truck broke off the entire strut tower from the inner fender skin! Not something you would want to trust a safety critical part to a washer! *Drivers weight, weight of fuel in tank, and other factors apply here to generate the uneven left/right weight distribution. NOTE: This is also assuming a STOCK bodied R50. Once you add accessories, such as a bull bar and winch, the weight distribution is even more front biased, and the forces exerted on those little 10mm bolts are even more exaggerated. ADDITIONAL NOTE: Also realize that to determine the exact forces exerted on the strut mounts would be very complex, and would have to take into account exact corner weights of the vehicle in question, sprung and unsprung weight, center of gravity, and it would depend on exactly what situation the vehicle is in at a particular point of interest. At rest, the forces exerted on the strut mount are the corner weight of the truck pushing down, and the force of the spring, and the strut pushing up. So you have compression forces acting on the mount from both sides. The calculations above are a VERY rough estimation based on approximated figures and should be taken only as such. These are not accurate figures, but are merely an approximate representation to give you an idea of what is going on in your suspension. This is why it is imperative that you use a high-quality strut mount, such as the OEM Nissan one, and not a cheap mount, like the KYB, which will fail after a short period of use.

You have a PM.

Yeah, not very much, but they do...well, did.

Yeah, the back-seats aren't the best, but, if the trunk isn't loaded to the gills, they do recline a bit, which helps dramatically. Memphis, TN, to Washington, DC - 940 miles, 17.5 hours, stops only for fuel/food/facilities....was quite tired and a bit stiff from sitting for that long when I got in, but no soreness. But then again, sit in any chair for nearly 18 hours, and tell me you're not a bit stiff...

Yes, this site is heavily biased towards off-road recreation and performance, and that could make finding information relevant to street performance difficult, but it's first and foremost a Pathfinder site. And there's no reason not to help a fellow Pathfinder owner because of his or her intended use of his or her Pathfinder... Besides, better street performance translates into better towing stability and performance as well, something we can all appreciate! Let's try to keep this thread on-topic and keep the bashing OFF of the public forums, shall we?

Boys! Take it somewhere else! To each his own, right.

No, that was available 99.5-2001. 2002 and later were mono-tone. I'm not as tall as you are, 5'11, but I drove my 99 3.3L Automatic from Arizona to DC in 3 days, solo, and had no issues. They're actually quite comfortable on long trips and surprisingly stable at triple-digit plus speeds...I was in Kansas, and there was a Tornado....

To answer your question, yes, an LSD will aid in on-road traction, just like it will aid in off-road traction (to a certain extent). The information above about re-building the LSD with additional clutch packs still applies to "tighten-up" the LSD and increase the break-away torque. With your BMW, you're probably used to a fairly tight LSD. The OEM R50 LSD is anything but. You'd probably notice a marked improvement in winter traction with a good set of all-terrain M&S tires, such as a Bridgestone Dueler AT REVO, if you can find one in the size you need after lowering your truck. (Boy, that sounds strange for this forum!) That would be my first step, before starting into the Diffs. Get a good set of tires, and see where that leaves you. Then if you're still not satisfied, you can add the LSD.

Guilty!

Just because Jeep never put a 60 on a Waggy, doesn't mean that there isn't a Waggy with a 60 rear under it. Now, that said, most Dana60s are Full Width axles, and wouldn't match a Wagoneer width front 44. Seems like either the guy's got set of full-width axles that he put under a Waggy, that he's trying to sell, or he doesn't know what he's talking about. Either way, I'd be skeptical, and would want to see detailed pictures with WMS to WMS measurements before determining weather or not it's a fair price. But, as 87 said, for an R50, you'd be better off with a HP44 front/9" rear combination...or, even keep the 233b, as that's a pretty damn stout axle to begin with.

Also, you may want to try http://www.car-part.com

I may have a rear defrost switch floating around somewhere. Let me look today and get back to ya.

All, 1990 on V6 Hardbodies had the 28 spline shafts. Actually, all V6 4WD Nissans had the same shafts and hubs, Pathfinder, Hardbody, Frontier, and Xterra, up to 2004.

Yeah, the car definitely did it's job in that crash, which number one, is protect the occupants!