vengeful

That's a used engine.

The post didn't make any sense, because....it didn't make any sense! I've been wheeling my truck HARD for about 4 years, and haven't had a single problem with CVs. I have replaced an axle once due to a torn boot, that occurred when it got speared by a stick. Just because I haven't broken a CV yet, doesn't mean it's not possible that one might break in the future...which is why I carry spares. With the AC lift, the front suspension doesn't droop any further than stock, therefore it can be run reliably without too much concern for blowing CVs every time you go out. The Manual hubs help to alleviate friction on the boots at ride height at higher speeds, therefore helping to prevent torn boots.

AC are worthless. Might as well be putting the Plastic peice back up there. NOt worth the cost of the steel used to make them. The BlackPanther aren't cheap....but then again, they're much less than the cost of a new Subframe ($1200+) or Engine ($3000+).

[Nelson] HA-HA! [/Nelson]

Umm..ok. How about some details about your experience to share with us so we know why?

On Road: 41PSI front, 43PSI rear. This is after performing a chalk-test on the tires, and figuring out what pressure gives me the best MPGs with the most even contact patch. Tires are good to 60PSI. Off-Road: Generally ~15PSI. But it really depends on the conditions. Wet: 18-20psi Snowy: 20-24psi Muddy: 12-14psi Rocky: 14-16psi

There's a guy on ExPo looking for some....not sure if he got in touch with you or not.

Still $3.049 at the station I use....has been between $3.039 and $3.069 for the last 3 weeks....not much fluctuation there.

Just look through the Pictures section. I'm sure you're bound to find some pictures there.

One-Piece clip-in T-Connector trailer wiring harness $36, no cutting or splicing required.

Come on people...READ. He said no to a stock bumper. He is wanting a real bumper in exchange for a modified stock bumper, hidden winch mount, AND a full set of skidplates. How could you possibly think that a stock bumper would be a fair trade for that? *Aside: Marcel, I take it things went well and you got your R50 back?.....How about a rear bumper like Pezzy's?

Again with the rear diff guard.....it doesn't protect anything! The only reason I could see having a rear diff guard, would be to protect the drain plug, but it doesn't do that! More useless crap to weigh our trucks down.

Cool....but kinda hard to do sometimes.

Or....Getting an appendectime to cure the farts...

It's already July... :tonguefinger:

When inquiring about which shocks will best suit your needs, speak with Mike. He's the man tech/product design/install expert over there, and he'll help you out a lot.

Automotive Customizers (4x4parts.com) carries them as well, and sells them for $150. I'd put a link, but I'm posting from my phone. When I get home, I will post it. I've actually got a set that I use as trail spares. They are still good, but the trim ring on one of them has a small chunk missing. It does not effect the functionality of the hubs in any way, and if you are on a budget, they would be a good way to save some money. I'd let them go for $75 plus s/h. If you're interested, PM me, and I can email you some pics.

I would expect a cheap, poor quality, tape on bling product; poor customer service; slow shipping and outrageous shipping costs. I hate to break it to you but you got exactly what you bought. The term "rocker panel" can be used for several meanings...just like almost every other word/phrase in the English lanuage. It can mean the sills underneath the doors, cosmetic panels applied to a lower portion of the body, or even the lower part of the doors themselves. I have heard the term used in reference to each of these in use several times. Oh...and the reason they have to use a picture of a Dodge Ram (not a Dakota) is because nobody is actually stupid enough to buy those ugly things and put them on a Nissan!

Invaded is too nice. I'm thinking more 'hostile takeover'. LOL Mattie, if you're heading out this way...lemme know!

Pic....

Well, just my effing luck... I pulled off my skidplate to drain and flush the radiator, and what do I see? A bunch of rubber pieces...which I invariably traced back to my non-existant drivers side steering ack bushing. I'll post some pictures when I get home... Does anyone have any tips (*cough* Alex) on replacing them?

I suppose it doesn't matter, unless you plan on running a fairing in it to reduce wind noise.

Looks good, but I reckon that you have your rack mounted in reverse! The angled portion should be facing towards the front.

Looking up now....Will report back with scans from the FSM. Uploading PDF Scans now....will report back with links. P0506 - ISC System P1102 - MAF Sensor P1456 - EVAP Control System These are the direct diagnostic pages from the Factory Service Manual for a 2003 Pathfinder. Your truck is in "Fail Safe Mode" due to a problem with your MAF Sensor. This prevents the engine from running above 2,400 RPM. You probably sucked some water/mud through the intake and it contacted the MAF Sensor. You may need to replace your MAF sensor, but it is possible that you could get away with simply cleaning it, too. Odds are though, that you did, in fact, suck something through your intake and mouse up your MAF Sensor pretty good, and you're going to have to replace it. The possible triggers for 1102 include the harness or connectors, it is possible that it simply became disconnected, but unlikely, and the MAF itself. Inspect your air filter. If it's muddy/damp, you need a new MAF Sensor. The MAF Sensor is available through http://www.courtesyparts.com, or through http://www.nissanparts.cc for wholesale rates. The price from courtesy is $454.

OK. So you need a new rear axle, and figure that the 33-spline R50 rear end would better suit you than the 31-spline of the WD21. However, if you ever plan on modifying the truck and adding a locker, the WD axle will b your best bet, as it is compatible with the less expensive mechanical LockRight. The R50 axle will only accept the ARB air locker.