vengeful

Yeah, I like that feature! It seems that all of the smileys, except for the standard IPB smileys are gone from the database...the same thing happens when I update the NIORA forum. All you have to do is put in the location of those smileys on the server again, and they'll work.

Nissans prefer to sit a little bit nose down. They handle best when they've got 2-4 degrees of positive rake (ass high). The alignment stays better when it's raked down. The truck holds the road better. I highly recommend, for the longevity, and safety of the vehicle, keep it a little nose down...

Not back then I didn't.

My truck sat level from the minute I did the lift....y'all are just crazy.

I left my copy out in the truck, and I'm too lazy to go out there and get it right now...not to mention, I'm not 100% sure where I left my dag blasted camera.

Yup Yup.... If anyone wants a signed copy, please send SASE to me along with a $5 donation to the Save Murphy fund.

BLG, I can understand your frustration with the situation, but resorting to name calling and personal attacks in a public forum will certainly NOT inspire any sort of sympathy from your audience or from Phil. Not only is it improper, it's against the forum rules here. Consider this your warning.

Ouch...that's no fun at all. Side impacts are the worst kind of impacts for occupants. Since you had to be involved, I'm glad you had to be on the giving end of it, not the receiving end. Hope everything works out for ya.

Here's a detailed writeup that Keith did when he performed his 5-speed swap on his R50. It's tailored to the R50, but it applies to the WD21 as well, just have to modify a few things... http://www.overlandtrucks.com/system-f/NPTC.pdf

Optimas have NOTHING on Odyssey's... https://www.expeditionexchange.com/odyssey/indexmain.shtml When I redo my electrical system, I'm going to run the Mean Green 160A Alternator, with (2) Odyssey PC1500s and (1) Odyssey PC2150 (in the back).

All the specs are in your FSM...you do have one right?

No.

And you're a turkey! Gotta submit to be writ!

The factory alternators on the VQ35 Pathfinders have a rated output of 110A. The factory alternators on the VG33 Pathfinders have a rated output of 90A. The factory alternators on the VG30 Quests have a rated output of 110A. The factory alternators on the VG33 Quests have a rated output of 125A.

They're regularly on eBay. They sell for $60-100. You can also order one through the Dealership, but be prepared to spend $300+

http://www.fnd4pth.com/R50/FSM/2002/2002_DTC_P0447.pdf

P0447 is your Vent Control valve....the gas cap has nothing to do with that code. I'm working on posting the FSM section for that code online right now. I'll post a link to it shortly.

Jegs.Com carries Cragar Wheels. Your bolt pattern is 6x5.5" A cheaper alternative to the Cragar Soft 8s are the Unique 297s I would avoid the wheels with the D-shaped cutouts as they haven't been as strong as the circular cutout wheels in my experience. I've had both, and the d-shaped wheels have been super easy to bend/warp.

I think he had them there, and was unimpressed by the quality of the sound reverberating off the metal roof, which was his original reason for wanting to put them in a box. Though, if you applied sound deadener to the roof, you'd eliminate the need for the boxes.

Your best bet is to simply get some foam baffles for the front speakers. That will insulate them from the doors enough that they'll sound good. For the rear 6x9" boxes, you can either leave the boxes empty (air), or fill them with PolyFill (available in the Crafts section at WalMart). It's a polyester blend foam fill used for pillows, and a lot of people use it to stuff subwoofer and speaker boxes. Personally, I don't believe in the stuff. A properly designed box will sound much better without any fill. Use 1/2" MDF plywood for the speaker boxes and seal them up well with some caulk (not cocking ), so they are air-tight. An air-leak in the box will definitely hinder your sound quality. The best shape for a 6x9 is a trapezoidal box with the speaker on the angled face. This will provide you with the best sound imaging in the vehicle. However, without knowing the exact specifications and requirements of the speakers themselves, I must leave the actual planning and design of the boxes themselves to you. Also, if you're on a budget, you can pick up some of the heat-form, adhesive roofing tar paper rolls from Home Depot or Lowes for an inexpensive alternative to Dynamat. It will help to alleviate vibrations and road noise inside the cabin, and will definitely help your sound quality. Put some on the door skins (the metal part), the roof (under the headliner, pain in the rear, but so worth it, especially if you're running a subwoofer) and on the sides and floor of the rest of the body. Good luck, and definitely take some pictures of your progress!

I had seen that before....ridiculous.

That really sucks man....

Mine came with my hitch when I bought it from JCWhitney.

I recommend installing the Quest alternator (see the How-To section for a write-up). They come in 110A and 125A varieties. I had my stock alternator tested and it was only putting out 45A when I swapped in the Questy. Then again, I do have a lot of aux lights, and a pretty big stereo....

Yeah, but you have a new motor.