vengeful

It's probably either a pre-wiring for a factory tow package, or for a bumper mounted license plate lamp. I would order a T-Connector and use it. They clip right in line with your tail-light wiring harness on both sides of the vehicle and doesn't require any cutting or splicing. Then you can run it either down through the gromets, or under the carpet and out the hatch (what I did, keeps the wires safe from corrosion, impact, etc).

The only problem with a thread like this is that the VQ35 has only been around since 2001, so there's not that many people who have very high miles on them. My truck is a 99, 8 years old now...holy cow, my truck is 8 years old???...and I've only got 130,000 miles on it. Wow...did I just say, ONLY 130,000 miles?

If you could get a wider shot of the wire location, I could tell you what it is for...It's hard to tell from that shot.

Stupid answer: check your gas cap. Enginerd Answer: You've either got a short circuit in your EVAP Electrical Control system, or one of the venting/purging valves has gone bad. Check the Vent Control Valve that is located on the EVAP Canister, and the Purge Control Valve (Not to be confused with the PCV Valve) that is in the engine bay. It's also possible that you have a line-leak somewhere in the system, so if the valves check-out, you may want to have the system pressure tested. Also, I had a bad connection in my Throttle Position Sensor which was making my Vent Control Valve go haywire, and causing the ECM to throw an EVAP Code...it did not throw any codes related to the TPS. There is a LONG list of check items in the FSM for these DTCs, but I would start at the above places. If those aren't the issue, let me know.

Please resize those pictures to a more managable size... Thank you.

You could easily work 31x10.50s in there...You'd probably have to roll the fenders, but it would fit fine. I towed a 2400lb car trailer with a VW Rabbit full of spare parts, total weight was probably just shy of 5,000lbs, with a tongue weight near 500lbs (max rating for the truck), stock suspension, with 31s, and it didn't rub at all. My suspension bottomed out at every bump, but the tires didn't rub. You'll be fine with 31s.

When I did my stereo setup, I purposefully chose amps that would fit in the cubby underneath the rear carpet. Everyone warned me about overheating, but I'm running 2 500W amps under there and have never had a problem, even in the hot summers in the Southwest. As long as your amps have good heat dissipation, that's an ideal spot for them. Could you fit one amp in there, and possibly fit another inside of one of the side panels? I know the one on the passengers side has a bunch of room behind it.

True, but when it's 3 degrees outside with a layer of ice and snow on everything, I'd rather let the knuckle draggers f- with my truck.

I'm just copying this write-up out of the Xterra Snorkels thread in the R50 forum for ease of searching down the road. And besides...you can't have too many how-tos, right? OK, before I get started, this has been something that I've been researching and looking into for about 2 years, on-and-off. I had finally saved up enough money that I could buy an ARB Navara Snorkel to test it out. I purchased a spare fender for my truck, just in case it didn't work at all and I had f'ked up my fender. I decided to go ahead with it after I smacked a tree at Paragon and put a rather sizeable dent in my drivers side fender. There have been threads here, at PCOA, AC, NOR, and several other places about R50 Snorkels. With all of that interest, I was apalled that ARB wouldn't make one specifically for the R50. There were even several people on PCOA willing to donate their trucks for as long as it took for ARB to mock one up. (Does this sentiment ring any bells? TJM with the bull-bars anyone? Bastages!) Anyways, I digress. You don't care about all that crap, you want to hear about MY snorkel, and my install experience. Do you realize how hard it is to type without a left index finger? Just kidding...but really, I nailed it with the cut-off-wheel and left a pretty sweet cut on my knuckle! Battle scars baby! On to the good stuff! I went over to Spike's place today to install the snorkel, since he has a shop and every tool you could possibly imagine. His place is amazing. Shade-tree mechanics wet dream. Ok ok ok, I'm digressing again... First of all, when you order your Safari Snorkels Nissan Navara TurboDiesel snorkel, since those are the only ones available for the D22 chassis, it will include several things: Snorkel Body Snorkel Head Rubber Connector S-Shaped Connection Tube Bag of Hardware with: 6 studs, 5 medium sized fender washers, 5 medium sized foam washers, 1 large sized fender washer, 1 large sized foam washer, 6 nylon lock-nuts, 3 silver hose clamps, 1 black hose clamp, 2 small screws, 3 small bolts with washers, and a small bracket to attach the snorkel body to the A-pillar. Foam fender gasket Fender template (whoever packed mine up forgot to include this, so I just used the fender gasket as a template, which, for this application, I think works better.) Detailed instructions and parts list as well as exploded drawing You will need to buy: A universal air intake tube (available at AutoZone for about $20, this is the one I used. A 3" air intake mounting plate (this is what I used. Permatex Ultra Black Silicone Gasket Maker 2" rubber pipe cap - a PVC one will not fit over the air box hole, a rubber one can be stretched over it with some coaxing. 1 longer stud with the diameter and thread of the existing studs. An extra half inch is really all you need. You will need several tools, including: 13mm closed end wrench 13mm socket ratchet Drill 16mm (11/16") Step bit (Unibit) 95mm (3 3/4") hole saw (optional, as you can use the grinder to make the main hole as I did) Grinder with cut off wheel (or Reciprocating saw, grinder works better) An assortment of screwdrivers, both phillips and slotted 3" hole saw 3 1/2" hole saw Large heavy cloth The instructions that Safari provides are VERY GOOD. I will provide detailed instructions, as they are included with the package, however, I will also provide tips based on each step, and where the Safari instructions do not apply, I will include modifications based on what I did. The Safari instructions will appear in italics. 1: Removed left front wheel and wheel arch liner. Remove boom bottle from behind guard. Remove indicator from guard. I did not remove the wheel. I had plenty of room to work. If you're stock, you might want to consider it. The wheel arch liner has to come out for you to gain access to behind the fender (guard as it is called in the Safari instructions). The "boom bottle" is the big intake resonator that is in your fender. You do not have an Indicator on your fender, so you can skip that part. There is a big wiring loom inside of the fender, leave it clipped in for the time being, until you're done making your outer-fender holes. It is sufficiently out of the way to avoid any damage. 2: Remove air cleaner assembly, including pre-spinner. The R50 does not have a pre-spinner, so that is not a necessity, but removing the Air cleaner assembly up to the MAF plate is necessary. You will need to cut a 3" hole in the side of the bottom portion of the air box for the plumbing from the snorkel. You can do that now, or later. 3: Tape the template to upper rear corner of left hand guard. With a felt tip pen, mark out al holes, including new indicator position. Drill a 4mm pilot hole for each hole position. Drill the main hole to 95mm using the hole-saw (2 holes required). Drill the remaining five holes to 16mm using the step drill. This is where I started to really differ from the provided instructions. After this point, I really didn't follow them much, except where I had questions. I used the foam gasket as a template. You want to tape it so the top corner is at the top corner of your fender, on the outside of the lip, not on top of it. You may need to take the snorkel body and maneuver it around on your truck a little bit to get the proper positioning. This is where I marked my holes to drill. I used a silver Sharpie, as it is easier to see on the black. You'll also notice that I put markings where the corners of the gasket are. I made these markings a couple of days ago, and wanted to be sure I aligned the snorkel and gasket up properly to re-check the holes before I drilled them. You should always double-check your holes before you drill them. The the top hole farthest towards the door needs to be very accurate, as there is a structure reinforcement behind where you're drilling that does not allow you to drill out to 11/16" using a step-bit. It should actually be place about a half inch farther back from where I placed it. I had to use a drill saw to ream out the hole a little to get it aligned with the stud. You will need to buy a longer stud for this position as it does not quite line up with the provided stud. An extra half-inch is really all you need. I used a grinder, with a cut-off wheel to cut the main hole, as I couldn't find a 3 3/4" hole saw. Neither Home Depot nor Lowe's carries one. I suggest using a grinder instead of a recip saw, because you're working with rather limited space back there and the recip saw doesn't do curved cuts very well. A metal jig-saw with a small intrusion will work as well. The farthest forward mounting hole I drilled out to 7/8" as it was also mis-aligned a little bit. My fault though. 4. Using the air hacksaw, join the two 95mm holes together. Also cut out the new position for the indicator. De-burr and paint all holes. This step can basically be omitted, as you will likely be using a grinder to cut the main hole, and do not have a side indicator. You will need to deburr the main hole, but if you use a step bit for the other holes, they are self-de-burring. I do suggest squirting a little bit of paint on there to prevent corrosion. 5. Remove door sealing rubber from "A" pillar. Install mounting studs to snorkel body and place snorkel on guard. Verify position of upper mounting bracket in relation to standard trim screw (see drawing for details). * Trim windscreen moulding to clear upper mounting bracket (see drawing for details). Install upper mounting bracket and mark out the remaining two holes. Remove bracket and drill a 4mm pilot hole, remove trim and drill holes to 8mm. Deburr and paint holes. Insert plastic plugs and refit trim. Install upper mounting bracket and refit door sealing rubber. This is a very wordy step. It spells out pretty much exactly what you have to do, except that the top hole in the bracket will not line up with an existing screw. You will have to drill 3 screws into your A-pillar for this. I used some #10 x 1" self drilling screws for ease. It worked out very well. I did NOT trim the moulding, but it could have been done. It worked out fine without trimming it and the door clears just fine. Intermediate step not necessary on the Navara. You will need to put the snorkel onto the fender and align it with the a-pillar bracket. On the inside of the fender, there is a structural support that will need to be cut in order to plumb the snorkel. You can do this one of two ways. You can either use a grinder and cut the obscuring portion away and route your plumbing between the fenders, or you can cut a hole through it and route your plumbing straight through. I chose the latter. You will need to remove the fender for this step. Using the 3 1/2" hole saw, I had marked where I needed to cut and cut out a 3 1/2" hole through the inner fender into the engine bay. I then selected a location on the air box to drill out a 3" hole to connect the universal air duct to. After you have done this, position the fender back on the truck, and make sure that your plumbing will align with the hole. If all is good, bolt up the fender and continue on with the Safari Steps. If not, ream out the hole in the direction you need using a recip, air hack, or drill saw. Do not use cheap tools for this, as it is hardened steel and it will break them. I broke a Harbor Freight drill doing this. 6: Place foam body gasket onto snorkel and position snorkel on guard, fasten snorkel using necessary hardware, including rubber washers (see drawing for details). Can't get much more self-explanitory than that. I will say that it won't line up perfectly, but it's pretty close. With the lengthened top-rear stud, you should have no problem getting the nuts onto all of the bolts. 7: Fit connecting duct to snorkel, refit air cleaner assembly minus the pre-spinner. Smear a small amount of silastic in connecting duct at air cleaner side. Fasten all hose clamps. This step is different for the Pathfinder since you must drill out a hole in the air box to connect the plumbing. Fasten the connector plate to the air box in the location of your hole, and connect the universal duct to that. Use a generous amount of the RTV silicone to seal it up. Use the silicone on the snorkel side too. Use the provided hose clamps to hold it all together. Don't forget to cap off the 2" hole on the bottom of the air box with the 2" rubber pipe cap, and silicone that, too. 8: Refit indicator lens and wheel arch liner. Reattach your plastic wheel well liner. 9. Install air ram and fasten. Attach the snorkel head to the top of the snorkel body and secure it with the black hose clamp provided. You do not need to seal up this portion, as it is going to be pretty durn high up. If you removed your wheel, this is the time to put it back on. If you disconnected your MAF sensor to gain access to the bolts on the MAF plate, don't forget to reconnect it. Check underneath your hood for tools before closing it up. Make sure that all your fender bolts are torqued to the proper specifications, and that all bolts, and screws, are tight and secure. Wait until the silicone is dry, and take your truck for a test drive. This will actually give you a slight performance increase over stock, as it is a true cold-air intake, since it is drawing cool air from up by the roof. It also increases the air flow into the air box and engine by increasing the size of the hole in the airbox from 2" to 3". You did what I did and forgot to install the rubber cap on the other hole on your airbox, didn't you! Well...go back and take everything apart and put it on. :X I trimmed the top corner of my fender to allow the snorkel to fit more flushly against the fender. Alignment: It's not perfect, but it's not terrible either. Finished Product: The head sits slightly crooked, since the snorkel is angled more towards the vehicle on the Pathfinder than the Navara (Australian Frontier). But, if that's the only real issue with it, then I'm happy! Driving Impressions: The truck feels snappier, even compared to the JWT Pop-Charger. It holds speed on the freeway much better than before, partially due to the ram-air effect of the snorkel, and partially due to the cooler, denser air it is drawing in, and still partially due to the larger volume of air it is drawing because of the larger hole in the intake box. I do NOT see the snorkel at ALL from the drivers seat. It is completely hidden behind the A-Pillar. I see a little bit of the fender portion on the fender, if I'm looking for it, but it does not obstruct the drivers view in any way. I am 110% completely extatic that I installed this snorkel! No...scratch that...1000000000%!!! It's amazing. The looks that I get on the road are incredible. Everyone is looking at me like... :eek: Is that a snorkel on a Pathfinder!? It's great! I can't wait to get back to the east coast to test it out in the water and mud!

That's the same place as the VG R50s....not that hard to get to...

Or....you could just get the lifetime alignment from Firestone and bring your Pathy to Mr.Reverse in Utah.

I've got a fan out of a 12.6L Turbodiesel Volvo Tractor Trailer rig fixin to go into my Pathy. As luck would have it, the shroud is exactly the same size as my radiator! Only pulls 30A at start-up too, and moves over 6,000CFM of air. If you power it on while laying it on the ground, it'll levitate like 8 feet into the air. It's ridiculous.

I thought when you said "head units" you were talking about something else. Time to wash my brain....

I guess it's more convenient to do everything at once?

$950CAD for an ARB Sahara!? Damn, that's a good price! Even at $1100 with shipping and everything that's a good price! They're usually like $1200+US!

Currently, white walls out... But...Once I add my next addition, I think I might have them switched around.

Those pictures were hosted on a site that is temporarily offline. I do not know whether they can be uploaded again or not.

This is STILL the case Fueler... Marcel has never been in Arizona, and I'm not there anymore either... And again...for clarification, I AM NOT BLACK PANTHER ARMOR. I am merely a friend of Marcel's and I am relaying information to you for the sole purpose of information. I have no financial or contractual ties to the company, I am merely acting as a liason between NPORA and Marcel (who IS Black Panther) during his time of absence from the boards.

There were no cards when I signed up...

Yes, they will work. However, on Auto-4WD Models, you cannot use the Auto mode with the hubs unlocked, as the front wheels will be disconnected from the axles, and 4WD won't be fully engaged.

Are you sure you have the RCAs in the proper output? It's also possible that there is an option to turn off the signal to the subwoofer. This will still allow the amp to turn on, but not provide any sound to the sub. Check through the menus and see if the Subwoofer is turned on at the head unit.

To add to that, if somebody replies to your question in a manner that you do not understand, it is ok to ask for clarification. sssh

I tend to be overprepared for any possible situation that could possibly arise. This could get long... Every Day: Spare Tire Tire Repair Kit Emergency Lighting (temporary mount on vehicle) First Responder Kit OBA Craftsman Mechanics Tool Kit (basic hand tools) Tool Box with other hand tools incl. Torque Wrenches, pry bars, etc... Fire Extinguishers (which reminds me I need to get them recharged) Two Mag Lights Hi-Lift Jack Stock Bottle Jack Reflective Triangle Road Flares Flare Gun CB Radio HAM Radio Shortwave Radio Weather Radio Police/Emergency Scanner Springfield XD .45 (where legal) Cell Phone and Charger 400W Power Inverter Emergency Blanket Emergency Heat Source 1 Gal Distilled Water Food Rations (Clif Bars) Bungee Cords Ratchet Straps Rope Tow Strap and Shackles Wilderness Adventures: All of the above, plus: EMT Bag w/ AED + O2 Extra Spare Tire Backup Air Source for tires Camping Equipment More complete food rations 1 gal drinking water/person/day Spare Fuel Safety Related Modifications to Vehicle: Fire/EMS Electronic Air Horn Strobe Lights Flood Lights A/B/C, A/B, and B/C Fire Extinguishers Permanently mounted Mag Lights There's more I'm sure, I'm just not remembering it all...

That looks freakin sweet man! Nice work!

You just called 50% of the females on this site BUD!