vengeful

You say you had steering work done....it's possible that the air bag coil spring in the steering column was damaged. It is the fault of the shop, make them fix it or take them to court.

Yeah, the 120,000 service is similar in nature to the 30,000 mile service.

He's been super busy with school and work, and hasn't had any time to get online and check in. He did check in a couple weeks ago. I've kept in touch with him off the boards. He's a really cool guy, I wheeled with him a couple times when he had the Pathy. Tranny blew up, then the T-case, twice, so he sold it and got an 05 Xterra Off-Road that he loves.

You don't even have to....it was settled a long time ago, back when I first bought MY sliders like 2 years ago. They're the same!

I purchased my sliders used from Squam1. You may remember him. He had a Black 02 that he sold for a Subaru when the gas prices started getting out of hand. He had them installed on his truck for about 3 months before he decided to sell the truck. I bought them and they bolted right up. No unsightly gaps, no problems with the mounting locations, nothing. The only structural/body changes from the early R50 to the later R50 are front cosmetics and a slightly different liftgate skin. Different step rail design and different mud flaps/flares also accompanied the change. The mounting of the step rails is identical. It would have been fruitless for Nissan to completely reengineer the underbody of the R50 for a simple cosmetic change in 99. The design of the tranny crossmember was changed in 01 with the addition of the 3.5 to withstand the higher torque produced by the motor. The 3.5 actually weighs a little bit less than the 3.3 due to its aluminum block vs the 3.3s steel block, so the front structural rigidity was not an issue.

Not quite.... I was forced into a 3-4' deep sink-hole on the beach by a jerkwad in a Heep, which launched the front end of my truck like 6-8 feet into the air. The back wheels then hit the trailing edge of the sink-hole which snapped the front end of my truck back down to the ground. This motion broke off the entire strut mounting tower arch hump dealy from the inner fender liner. Alignment was fine and the strut and coil stayed intact. I was able to hold it together with a ratchet strap to drive it home. A similar thing happened to....um.....I think it was Herm?? In any event, his was fixed by welding strips of steel to reattach the broken mount. I had the entire inner fender portion replaced from the firewall forward.

Just order the ones for the older R50s....they're the same.

Hi. My name is Dan, and I'm a Pathaholic.

You should eliminate the fuse at the radio, and put a new fuse closer to the battery. Yes, ground the negative. Copied from PM: Yes, basically. You can get everything you need at Radio Shack. Many Chain Auto Parts Stores carry automotive specific electrical equipment. You may be smart to buy a mini-spade type fusible link from your local auto parts chain and some spare fuses that match the mini-spade fuses that your truck uses. I know that when I first started messing around with electrical stuff on my truck, I messed up and popped more than my fair share of fuses. But that's better than the alternative, which is catching something on fire. This can simply be spliced in-line with the connecting wire that runs to the radio. The fuse should be no more than a foot from the power source (battery).

Radio Shack will have all of the electrical connectors and accessories that you'll need. If you go to a reputable one, and the person behind the counter knows anything about electronics, they'll be able to assist you in picking up the right parts the first time around to avoid any, possibly serious, issues. Electrical circuits generate heat. When there is too much resistance, they generate a LOT of heat. Too much heat can produce fire. Fire + Truck = badness. You don't want fire.

I would suggest running a fused (15A (or whatever your radio specifies, but not more than 20A), 14AWG) wire from your battery to the radio. You can splice that wire into the wire on the radio. Be sure to use a proper connector and not just twist and tape it. You'll need a type of spade connector in order to connect the wire to your battery terminal. They make them with round openings that will slide over the bolt that clamps the terminal onto the post. Do the same for the ground. Be sure that the location of the ground is at least a few inches from any other direct ground. Do not use a common ground point, as this can cause issues with crossover, especially if you use a common ground with your stereo. you're going to need to scrape off all of the paint around your ground location and ground it to a bolt, or use a self-drill screw to fix the grounding spade to the chassis. You can then spray some paint over the ground location to prevent corrosion.

I have my 12V+ wired directly to my battery. The ground is sent to a grounding terminal on my chassis. Another option is to tap into the cigarette lighter circuit. I suggest grounding the radio to your chassis, and not using an electrical ground. If you use an electrical ground, you're setting yourself up for feedback. I also installed a diode in my ground wire so that current cannot flow back through the radio when I shut it off. As RWC said, using a Cigarette lighter plug is another good option, if you don't want the radio to be permanently mounted. The only issue with this is that your truck has to be on in order for the radio to work. The main reason I wired my radio directly to the battery is because when I have club events, I leave my radio on in my truck so I can hear when people are calling out to camp if I'm not in my truck. Also, the weather alert only works when the radio is on, and believe me, when you're camping in slot canyons, you NEED it to work.

Well...the 1000 is also a very good antenna. In fact, it used to be the best antenna on the market -- until they released the 5000. If you're trying to save money, save money on the radio side of things -- or, instead of eating out one day next week, eat in, you'll save the money that would make up the difference. Don't skimp on the antenna. Your CB range (even though you don't think you're going to be using it that much) could be the difference between life and death. Go back and re-read kmgar99's post about his friend with the compound fracture. If he didn't have a well installed and properly tuned antenna, he would never have gotten in touch the Rangers, and his friend would have been in a lot worse shape.

Yeah. The Wilson Antennas are the best antennas you can buy for a non-commercial application. There are better mobile antennas out there, but they cost a lot more and are very difficult to mount on a vehicle as small as a Pathy as they're designed for big-rigs. The through-roof antenna will get a better SWR as it's grounded to the body of your vehicle, than the magnet mount, which is grounded through the wire. For a weekend-warrior type application, like what I think you're intentions are with this, the magnet mount will work just fine.

When I installed my CB, it took me 5 minutes to wire the radio, and I spent 4 months finding the right place for the antenna that would give me the minimum Standing Wave Ratio (SWR). The SWR is a measure of how "in sync" the antenna is with the radio. You want the SWR to be as close to 1:1 as you can. I've been through 4 different antennas, and countless mounting positions and types. I've used magnet mounts, ball mounts, bumper mounts, body mounts, mirror mounts, hood channel mounts. I finally ponied up the $85 for a Wilson 5000 Roof Mount antenna (it mounts through your roof, and requires drilling a 7/8" hole in your roof). Without actually tuning the antenna, my SWR was 1.1:1 on channel 1 and 1.3:1 on channel 40. You want the SWR to be even across all channels. It is typical for the SWR to dip slightly in the middle channel range (15-25). I shortened the antenna about 1/4", ran grounding straps for my hood, doors and alternator. And re-grounded my stereo system directly to a ground plane instead of to the body. After 9 hours of work with the latest antenna, I achieved a 1.1:1 or better SWR across all channels. With a "cheap" Radio Shack radio with weather band (it actually runs about $70 because of the weather band, but is identical to the cheapo one inside), I was picking up Skip in November from Northern Maine to Sedona, Arizona. Regular transmissions, I typically get about 25-30 miles of range, depending on topography, a little farther if it's particularly flat. With my previous antenna setup, a FireStik II using a ball mount, mounted on the side of my truck, my SWRs were off the charts, indicating an insufficient ground somewhere in the antenna circuit. I could only get about 100 yards of range with that setup using the same radio. The antenna will make or break your system, so don't dwell too much on which radio to get, but definitely do your research on the antenna. And if you don't know what you're doing, or arent comfortable drilling your truck, have a professional install the antenna. Most truck stops and/or CB Shops will install and tune the antenna for you.

Who are you talking to? You're the one who is coming across as a Jerk, pal.

For quality and durability, you cannot go wrong with a Warn. For affordability and performance, a T-Max is top notch. It's very close in quality to a Warn, but slightly less expensive and more powerful than a comparable Warn winch.

If you're getting a CB, I HIGHLY recommend springing for a slightly higher-end model with a Weather Radio built in. The Weather Alert has saved my butt several times while camping. Also, DO NOT skimp on the Antenna. Get a good, high-quality antenna. A $10 Radio with a $100 antenna will sound better, and get much better reception than a $100 radio with a $10 antenna. Also, make sure that your antenna is properly grounded and be sure to have it properly tuned.

WOW! I knew there was a reason for me to come to the library tonight to get online and check the forums! Jim, Glad to have you back. You don't know how relieved we all are here in the Family to hear that you're doing much better, and seeing a non-devil woman. Good luck with the lawsuit and, I hope to see you around a lot more.

No...I will absolutely not say Congrats....aw crap!

Or eBay.

Not true. They agreed to make more of them just a month ago, however, they they backed out of the deal giving a lame excuse. They're a bunch of hosers, and their bumper quality isn't even all that great. Let's try Shrockworks again. Anyone in, or near, Houston want to give them your truck for a month?

This is not the proper forum for this post. LOCKED.

That hasn't been posted to since October.

Children! Oh, and "bad divorce" doesn't quite do his situation justice. Think World War 3. The woman is hell-bent on making Marcel's life miserable. He's been very pre-occupied with court and other related stuff lately, so BPA has sort of taken a back burner. But, rest assured, once the she-demon is out of his life, he'll be back in full swing! He is still taking orders and making existing skidplates, however, due to his current situation, his turn-around time is very slow, so be patient.