Kingman

The transmission will bolt up but a custom flywheel/flex plate needs to be made, and there isn't room for the starter unless the turbo is relocated.

I'd take those numbers with a VERY large grain of salt...

If it's equipped with the same TX-10 as in the WD21 (not the all-mode transfer case) it does.

Lucky you to have a full shop with a lift to do the work! I had to lay on 120F+ black asphalt in the middle of summer to do my engine swap, and a transmission swap in another Pathfinder! Oh and, uh, what's with that ridiculous exhaust tip? Is your name Kyle? Truck looks clean though, and that white stuff is just corrosion on the aluminum. Nothing to worry about.

Finally you post a number! Lucky man, you're over the golden rule! 1HP per 10LBS. I bet it's a blast!

VQs have fairly small limits to how much power they can reliably put out in the long run. Upside is they produce a substantial amount of power stock.

OEM clutch might not handle the power, no. But the rest of the drive train will not be an issue at all. VG33 NA 9.3:1 compression ratio plus a turbo=fun. Everything that bolts on a turbo VG30 will bolt on to a VG33. Don't over boost it and it will reliably put down some power. 12-15PSI aughta do you some good. You can make a hell of a lot more power boosting a VG than you ever can with a VQ35.

No, a transmission newer than '87 will not work. The L3N71B is the non-overdrive 3-speed transmission and the RE4RO1A is the newer (and weaker) 4-speed overdrive transmission. Both will bolt up, however, the wiring between the two is entirely different. I've spent hours tracing wiring diagrams, and unless you rewire through the entire engine/transmission electronics harness it simply isn't going to work.

Silly Canuckians spell everything wrong!

I'd use a multi-meter if I were you. Those test lights can mess some stuff up pretty easily if the circuit isn't made for high amperage draws, and I wouldn't dare touch a computer circuit with one. Which injector wires?

The little wire attached to the distributor won't affect anything if it's removed so it can't be a problem. And the engine needs to be running for the ECU to realize something isn't right. Try these two things if you haven't already: tap in to the white/blue wire coming from the orange relay in the foot well kick panel and see if that shows any voltage with the ignition ON. Pin 114 is the 12V out from the ECU to the relay, which goes to the injectors. Check to see if there's voltage there as well. What exactly are you probing to see if there's voltage to the injectors?

Interesting. Power is constant battery voltage to injectors when the ignition is ON. The ECU gives a reference signal to a "safety" relay (inside the kick panel by the front passenger door, it is orange) and does not power them directly. The relay is activated when it receives the ECU's signal and runs full voltage to the injectors. The pulse signal to the injectors is through ground inside the ECU. Two variable load transistors inside the ECU ground each output to the injector as the need to fire occurs, one two one two one two. The two injector grounding circuits are pins 103 and 104. I believe the power wire to the injectors is white/blue. The distributor it's self is NOT grounded. Power to Crank Angle Sensor is black/white, this is where the ECU gets it's power from. Same with the MAF sensor. The engine does not need the MAF to run. With it malfunctioning or unplugged the ECU will enter "limp mode" and not rev above 2500 RPM. It'll still start otherwise.

Tony you already asked a question in another thread specifically about a VG33. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28473&st=0&p=540203&fromsearch=1entry540203

Make him mow your lawn for the next 5 years.

Weird. I've 2 caps with different numbers though I know one of them is correct. It's got the number one plug labeled as number four, etc. I believe number one is with the rotor pointed South West as you're facing it. The only reference the FSM gives you is where the rotor is pointed to in a picture?

Because you said your rotor hasn't been lined up with the FSM diagram, I was assuming that in the FSM the rotor is pointed towards the number one plug, since number one TDC is where most manuals tell you to make sure everything is at. Are you sure you're looking for the right lines on the crank pulley? Stupid question, I know, but I've sworn up and down something was wrong when in reality I couldn't see the first line well enough. Kind of a reference, 20 degrees is basically having the cap in a straight line, not turned at all.

Probably got some water in the plug boots at the spark plugs and cap, and maybe a little inside that too.

When the number 1 piston is at Top Dead Center the rotor should be pointing to the number one plug on the cap.

It also helps if you know who makes the factory parts. Exedy for example, makes Nissan's and many other manufacturers' clutches and always has. On Ebay, a full replacement kit from Exedy for a Pathfinder is around $130. This is where it's stupid in my opinion to purchase "OEM" because it has the Nissan label on it, and that's where the huge price gap comes from. A label. And also, if you go to an auto parts store and buy the cheapest no-name brand part they have, it is no different than buying the cheapest no-name brand on Ebay. It's got nothing to do with Ebay as far as part quality goes, you as a consumer need to research the product before buying... no matter if it's from a parts store or online. We buy a lot of things off Ebay and have never had a bad transaction.

I'd say away from Sucks re-manufactured parts... they have a lifetime warranty, but you end up needing it fairly often.

PAY ATTENTION TO THE BRANDS BEING SOLD IN THE ADS! It's extremely important...

Mine did that too earlier today. Went to put gas in it and the cable was frozen! Took a lot of persuasion and I looked like a total idiot running back and forth from the cab to the fuel door smacking on it.

OBDII? So you wanna put the intake, emissions crap, and computer from a '96+ VG33 on the VG30, without the VG33 it's self? All systems Nissan were OBDI until the mandatory changeover in '96. Problem with the newer motors though, like was said here a while ago, is the insane amount of emissions garbage to suck more power. VG30E operating system is definitely the way to go...

*Needs a VG33*

Some examples: Clutch kit: at most $150 Rear bushings: $200 or thereabouts Oil leak: $20 gasket, if that Transmission: $500 at most. Craigslist. Bearings and brakes: $100 Has that transmission been serviced before? If so what kind of fluid was used? The wrong kind and it'll eat it up quickly.