Kingman

Is your sway bar disconnected or are the bushings bad? That'll make the wheels camber so much it looks like they're coming off the ground.

Damn dude, sorry to hear. I'll keep an eye out down here in Vancouver. My buddy's Honda was stolen and was in a police chase up in Longview a few days ago. Thieves suck.

I don't like clear lenses because the beam pattern isn't as precise/controlled and they oxidize over time. That's what I was talking about, the nasty yellow lights on older Fords and stuff. But for real brightness, H4s+power+relays, these are a good deal. I really wish they made them in glass, if they did I would already have some.

Sometimes you just gotta work with what you have. If you don't have an actual spring compressor, get a hold of some meaty ratchet straps like TrailChaser said. They work just as good as long as you have the strap centered on the spring.

Got new tabs. $48.75.

Huh? The good Euro lights have the most well controlled beam pattern that allows you to run stupid bright lights without affecting oncoming traffic. Euro-spec lights own DOT-spec lights any day. The problem with those Eagles is that they are plastic, we've all seen what happens to plastic headlights...

Figured out my Pathfinder can't do a wheelie anymore. It used to be able to kick the front tires 4-6" off the ground but now it won't. I think it's because of the MTs not grabbing the pavement as well, they just spin.

He's mistaken. Pretty sure he thinks you're talking about removing the cats and putting straight pipes in.

OP, when you bleed the brakes use DOT 4 fluid instead of DOT 3. Completely compatible, but the DOT 4 has a higher temperature rating and also absorbs a lot less moisture. From what I've seen it's about the same price and lasts longer.

Any time "left" or "right" is said for something on a vehicle, it's supposed to be in relation to sitting in the driver's seat. Not standing outside facing it. It's a little detail that makes a big difference.

What's your malfunction?

You would know if your engine didn't have any oil pressure, the lifters would be ticking like crazy.

All of that information is here on this site. Just search. In swapped a Z31 engine into my Pathfinder. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27948&st=0

How about this. Rev it up slowly to about 5K with very little skinny pedal. Then mash on it. If it ticks when you mash on it, it's the manifold studs. All of the exhaust needs to escape NOW due to the sudden load causing more ticking.

I think I know who you're talking about, if it's the one with the sideways mounted throttle body on the supercharger inlet... he blew it up not long after. Z31s come factory boosted. I know you know that and I also know you know that they really aren't "easy" to make power with. Yeah, you can do an NA2T and make 250WHP running 10PSI maxing out the turbo, fuel, and ECU systems... kind of a gamble if it's going to be reliable or not. Do you really want to do a half-assed boost job and end up paying for it down the road? There are threads on here about people boosting their Pathfinders. 2milehi is the most recent, along with shift250 who put a VG30DETT in his. However neither were that cheap and they're doing it right. If you do throw the stuff on, at least get a Nistune board or Megasquirt to run the thing. They can adjust the AFRs and pull timing instantly if they pick up any detonation. Can't do that with a stock computer.

That's what mine is running off of, actually minus the TPS.

If you have an auto transmission, it will not hold up to the power of a supercharged engine. They fail as it is, Nissan beefed up the transmissions for the Xterras and Frontiers to handle the power. You'll also either need to cut a hole in your hood or install a 2-3" body lift to clear the supercharger. The internals of the engine are strong enough to handle about 400HP conservatively, it's a bad tune and detonation that blows them apart in a hurry.

Loctite the studs in the head, anti seize on the nuts.

Go find a wrecked supercharged Xterra or Frontier. Take the engine, transmission (if yours is auto, if manual leave it), and the entire wiring harness and ECU. Put it all in your Pathfinder, a smaller supercharger pulley, and be happy with it.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to have some 10MM exhaust studs fitted to your heads while the new engine is out. You'll never have to worry about them breaking.

I've noticed no difference without the VSS wired in other than the cruise control won't work. Driveability hasn't changed any. The little differences *shouldn't* matter much when it comes to the ECU. MY1PATH is running a Cali ECU in his Federal Pathfinder and the only downside is the CEL is on due to there not being an exhaust temp sensor. The O2 sensor being different would likely cause an issue though unless you rewire if need be. You can check the wiring diagrams and pin out to see if they are the same. The speedometer on the round dash style is controlled by the sending unit/sensor on the transfer case, which interchanges with the cable style.

Yeah but the engine was free so I'm not complaining much. It seems to be doing great now though.

Not really. The inherent issue with the WD21 is the factory transmission cooler clogging. They redesigned the cooler. But yes, generally on an RE4 reverse is the first to go. Hope it's something else.

I'm gonna make a quick list of the things that have gone wrong with it. Throttle cable frayed and jammed Alternator went bad IACV went bad Cracked throttle body couplers Blew a piston ring on No. 3 No. 1 injector went bad ECU resistor fried Electric fan switch went bad RMS started leaking Varnish on one of the lifters making it tick randomly MAF went bad

Put a new air freshener in it.