Kingman

Good catch James. That would make more sense as the TPS is mostly used as an idle, half throttle, and full throttle switch for the ECU. There's a potentiometer inside as well to control an automatic transmission (the extra 3-prong plug). What are the injectors doing that's not normal?

I've had those codes come up when there wasn't anything wrong. The truck didn't run any different after I unplugged the battery, so I ignored them. Clean ALL grounds if you haven't already. They're extremely important to Nissan ECUs. The AIV is an emissions component. On a TBI engine it's right by where the intake tube meets the fender. Not sure on how to test it as I laughed at it and threw it away a long time ago.

Is the sticker going on a badass SAS'd unstoppable Pathfinder? If so, it'd be cool. If not... gay.

Random thought. I replaced a transmission in an '88 and also fixed an annoying ticking that came from the AIV dealy or some hose around it. It was obnoxious under load.

X2. I've been one that got lucky with just doing a fluid flush and an aftermarket cooler install. The slow-to-engage reverse problem went away and my shift pattern became normal again. It's a fairly cheap "fix" and if the transmission does need to be replaced, well at least you'll have a nice new cooler to go along with it. Never ever run a new transmission on an old stock cooler.

Similar set up. Reverse requires the most fluid pressure so it's usually the first to go.

That won't make his fuel pressure drop to 20PSI under load. Unplug the pressure regulator for a few, see if it makes any difference. That'll force the pump to run at full pressure. If it maintains more than 40PSI while driving your regulator is probably defective. Or if it doesn't make a difference it might be time to pull the pump.

It's even nicer in person. I bookmarked this, lots of info!

A Z31 ECU has a totally different pin out and plug style than the '90+ Pathfinders. Like MY1PATH said, Infiniti M30 ECU would be a way better option.

The frame needs to be modified a bit to fit the width of the VH45, it's a pretty big engine. Most Nissan wiring harnesses only need a few chassis wires to run. However. Swapping a Chevy V8 into a Pathfinder is pretty much bolt on since there are kits for it. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/performance-engine-swap-kits-c-367_172.html

It's also too short to have to keep re-telling the same information that's been covered hundreds of times that can be found by SEARCHING. FYI. I'm sure you'll also find a ton of threads, just like this, that were started due to lack of searching *before posting* in the first place...

Pathfinder: Unplugged the CHTS. Runs great now. Datsun: Spent all day trying to tune the SU carbs on my 620 after both floats went bad. One right after the other. I thought there was something wrong with the front carb, I couldn't get it to tune at all and it had a pretty solid misfire most of the time I was trying to fiddle with it. I did the procedure over and over and over but nothing worked. Turns out something hit the #1 spark plug electrode and crushed it. Not a clue why that happened. And now I also have to fix the #2 plug threads cuz they're all fuggered up.

Good looking truck. What part of Oregon?

That's pretty much as big as it gets with a VG.

I have 267/75/16s (basically a 32" tire) with 3.5" of backspacing and they rub the corners of the fenders and flares in front. 11.5" wide tires are probably going to rub like mad unless you do a bit of trimming.

Oh, one of those situations! Good luck

It'll come out. Try letting it soak for a few days and beat on the bung (not the sensor) with a hammer. Should break all the rust off eventually.

Cavitation, metal particles, super dirty oil, etc. Same way any other oil pump can fail. It's just not as common on Nissans. OP: The VG30E computer will run a VG33 no problem. Since it sounds like yours is a VG30E (1993 Pathfinder) you can keep your stock ECU. They will compensate for around 10-15% displacement change. Also might want to look in to running your stock VG30 cams with your new VG33 engine. They have a little higher lift so you can open up a little power, or find some cams from ANY pre-1987 VG30 engine. These are AB series cams and have the highest lift and duration, plus you may be able to get Euro spec versions of these pretty easy. To clear up some confusion... VG30I 1986.5-1989 I is Throttle Body Injected VG30E 1990-1995 E is Multi Port Fuel Injected So... what year is the truck you're putting the new engine in?

Shut up. I put a spacer on my Z and dyno'd it. I'll get numbers tomorrow.

Not really. I have a good MAF for one of these.

Autolites are garbage. Personally I'm at 3 of those suckers that were bad out of the box or failed shortly after installing. The porcelain is pretty weak on them and they have a tendency to crack apart. Does your issue vary with how much throttle you give it? Maybe try cleaning the MAF and wiring.

I've had issue with the wiring to the MAF before and it made the engine do some weiiirrd stuff. Corrosion can be anywhere and usually the TPS is corroded on the TBI engines as well.

Did you check the wiring for corrosion or breaks first? Usually that's the issue and it's free.