Kingman

That'll do. ECU throwing any codes?

Damn man congrats on both!

A what?

Well if it's mixed like a milkshake and it's that high up, probably about a quart or so of coolant in the oil. However I've pulled the dipstick on a few where you'd never know there was coolant in the oil by looking at it, then you pull the drain plug and over a gallon of the stuff comes out then, separately, the oil. Bizarre when that happens. So, are you sure the truck just isn't out of gas?

Well people say that timing chain guides are an "issue" with these things but I'd have to disagree. It's more like lack of maintenance that let's them get to the point of causing serious damage, any plastic or nylon part that has a tensioned metal chain rubbing against it is going to need to be replaced at some point in time. Usually upwards of 150K miles.

Very rarely do the injectors stop working, or stop bad enough a good clean won't fix. It's usually the wiring or relay.

Why leaf spring the rear? Linked coil spring is far far superior than leaf springs and it's already there.

It's 10x worse than lifting the engine. In the garage section is a link to download the FSM. Study it well...

Front diff needs to be dropped.

I'd add that I think it's odd that the brake and fuel light comes on when you trip the switch. Never seen that before, maybe it's just my truck.

That was not the "weak" belt's fault man. Something else was wrong in that equation or a fluke thing. Stock belts go through 10x that abuse on the daily. I've done 3.5k to well over 8k instantly a few times myself.

Throttle cables pop right of the cams on the throttle body. The entire unit takes maybe a half hour to remove, and a few more hours to rebuild if you take your time and take care of every little piece.

I don't understand popping under "stress." Tensioned properly, spinning 7-8k isn't an issue at all. There are lemons and drift Z31s spinning high revs all day without issue.

There is a heater core pipe that runs under the plenum. It's got 2 gaskets on it, one in the front and one in the back. If you get a mirror and a light you can finagle them to where you can see under the plenum. The intake manifold gaskets might be leaking as well. The coolant can pool up in the valley and evaporate before ever hitting the ground.

Jasper has a very, very bad reputation with rebuilding VGs. Hopefully the same isn't true with the VQs.

The ignition system wasn't designed to run anything fancy. Just high power through standard plugs.

Make sure there aren't two very small plugs down inside the caliper for storage/shipping purposes. Been there...

Garbage. NGK standard or V-Power for ~$2/plug.

There are quite a few members on here that have swapped in VG33s. Mr.510 has a very nice write up in his VG34 thread.

Bought a few more parts for it. Damn do I miss the old girl.

Yes.

The 3.3L oil pump is far superior to the 3.0L pump in every way. That's all there is to it. The 3.3L crank is also stronger.

He said he's hoping to have them back up on Ebay in a few days. Having issues with Ebay of some sort, but anyway they're still being made.

Pretty sure he does most of his business through his Ebay store nowadays. If you can't get a hold of him through there I'll shoot him a text.

Should go right on top. Looks like a replacement for double nutting.