Kingman

You'll want to see fresh grease begin to come out of the seals on the drive shaft. When greasing anything the old grease HAS to come out.

I was thinking the same thing, we had a '99 Accord once and it's not a small car... I remember reading on here somewhere about using newer Ford F-series coils or something like that, not really sure though...

*facepalm*

Test for voltage at the terminals in the fog lamps. 12V. To test the bulbs, remove them and inspect, you'll obviously know if they're visibly blown. If you can't tell, put them back in and take the entire lamp housing off and make 2 wires and connect it to the battery.

Shimmy is caused by something imbalanced/worn (like, uh, ball joints), alignment is just the change of angles. My truck is out of alignment quite a bit and doesn't shimmy at all, neither did my old one. Jpawela, have you checked your compression rod bushings???

Check the upper and lower link bushings.

My driver's seatbelt lock is starting to not click all the way and unbuckle, and both are extremely slow to retract. That guy is definitely bull@!*%ting you, talk to the manager and get the work done.

Zerks just allow you to service/re-grease them consistantly...nothing to do with quality.

I think it would be unlikely to fry the computer over zapping the battery... I know I've done it on accident countless times, both on this truck and my old one, and it hasn't harmed anything.

$1100??? I was quotd like $650 for a new 2.25" system from the manifolds back. It's not that hard to use a tube bender and get the right bends for the Y-pipe...

Do not drive the vehicle, the airbag will explode in your face at random.

After experimenting with my O2 sensor, I figured that around town a disconnected sensor will cause the engine to run rich, but on the highway it will lean out as it's only running off of the MAF sensor and there's a ton of air flowing past it into the throttle body. At highway speeds the engine runs lean without the O2 sensor to sense it's running lean and even things out. That's the only explanation I have for my truck running extremely lean and getting 22-23 MPG on the highway with the sensor unplugged, and worse mileage with a new one plugged in. On the flip side, in town mileage went back up with the new sensor. With such a low compression ratio, running fuel with over an 87 octane rating is basically pissing your money away a little at a time. The O2 sensors are a 3-wire heated unit. You cannot adjust the air/fuel mixture on a TBI during open-loop mode, unless you open up the ECU and re-map it.

Replace the belts and make sure they are properly adjusted...

Adam, you can advance the timing on the TBIs to 15 degrees from the factory 12 and usually get better gas mileage. Does the exhaust smell rich at all? Also, maybe disconnect the O2 sensor and run it on the highway and see if your mileage increases. My O2 sensor was bad, and I got almost 2 MPG better on the highway than with it connected.

I'd replace the O2 sensor, running rich or having other contaminants in the exhaust system will ruin them fairly quickly. Have you checked the computer for codes?

A sticking lifter will tick, but it won't necessarily hurt anything unless it goes completely dead. Your oil light being on indicates either low oil, or the oil pump not providing enough pressure so sufficiently lubricate the engine. If the oil pump is going bad, you can expect your engine life to be cut down to nothing. If it's a sticky lifter that's not being fully pumped with oil, the problem is relatively minor. Since the sound went away I would suspect that it was in fact low on oil and the proper amount of oil helped build enough pressure to pump the lifter back up. I'd say if the noise went away then you're fine.

The only problem with welding a rear differential is the extreme tire wear from going around corners. Drag car owners do it all the time.

I was told that if you want to take the engine and transmission out the front differential needs to be removed.

If your thermostat is sticking open and causing the engine to run cold, you mileage will likely drop a little. The hotter the engine runs the more efficient it is. I'm having the same problem, gauge reading a little low and mileage is in the pits.

It's always a good idea to have it aligned after changing any steering component, because like MY1PATH said, not every part is created equally...

My '87 would have the problem of lagging for a few seconds before slamming into reverse, same with drive. I flushed the transmission and installed an aftermarket cooler and the problem cleared up. I put a lot of miles on the truck since then and it never had another hiccup.

Can't figure out what belt is squeaking? Take a wire brush to the side of the belts, one at a time, and the problematic one will instantly go quiet. Not a permanent fix, but it'll at least let you know which belt needs to be replaced.

I like how the wheels are shiny clean and the rest of the truck is dirty...

I have/had both an automatic and manual WD. I liked each one for different reasons. The automatic was easier to wheel with by far, one less pedal to worry about and you can't really kill an auto. It's much easier to make more precise adjustments by holding the brake and hitting the gas, whereas with a manual you have to control all 3 pedals. Then sometimes you'll roll back before you go forward and that can cause a lot of problems in a tricky situation. I do like the manual for the control and downhill descent. It's also fun to dump the clutch and sling a ton of mud. I think each set up as it's own merits...

Sounds like a personal problem. They are very useful, I have 3 or 4 people in and out of my truck every day and still haven't had one come off yet. My friends are rowdy as well, so they seem to be secured pretty well.