tekazgtr1984

...Pretty sure it didn't go through in the end.

You're referring to your QX4...?

Drove it a good mile or so around the 'hood. Still sits around 1200 rpm... I checked for crud in the body itself, everything looks good. Maybe just residual left by the TB cleaner...?

So I cleaned my gummed up throttle body and followed the directions on the can, blah blah blah... Now when I fire it up, idle sits around 1200 rpm... Did I screw up here or something along the way?

X2 to what Dean said. Especially the part about posting pics. I want to see this 4-link rear set-up!

Yup, the OEM clutch is pretty solid but if you're looking for something with more beef, the Centerforce II is pretty sweet. I know AC has them on their site and the prices seemed reasonable...

Sounds like sway bar links to me. The OEM links are pretty flimsy and like Mike said, start to get noisy once the mileage gets higher.

X2. Some nice bolstered microsuede seats would be a great addition.

Thanks, Dave! Your help from down under is, without question, invaluable. There's a ton of aftermarket stuff in Australia that rarely sees the light of day. I think I speak on behalf of everyone over here when I say it's great to have someone researching this in OZ!

The directions on the Seafoam can say just pour in through the throttle body slowly. So rather than finding this said hose, why not just disconnect the intake pipe and with the engine running pour in the Seafoam?

Doubt it. It should work just fine.

Is the process the same for the VG33E and the VQ35DE?

You're hooking me up with tons of useful information! Thanks! Those wheels and a QD32, I'd be a happy Pathy man.

Selling blueprints, Bender?

You're a lucky man. Any chance you could find another one?

No worries! As soon as the lift was installed, 32" Toyo A/T's and 16x8 Helo Maxx8 wheels with 4.75" BS were also installed.

I'm running 32 PSI and my Toyo A/Ts are wearing just nicely, too.

I'll try to answer these as best I can. Here goes: 1. The less backspacing, the more the wheels will stick out; the more backspacing, the less the wheels will stick out. 2. You can use the OEM 16x7 only if the BS is adequate enough to allow for fitment of 32" tires while clearing the struts. I'd say you're better off going with some cheap steel wheels with 3.75-4.75" BS just to be sure. 3. Never run Rancho anything so I can't say. I'm running KYB GR-2 struts up front and they're great. I've heard great things about the Old Man Emu struts so I might try those in the future. I'm running Bilstein 5100's in the rear and absolutely love 'em. For a 2" lift, I doubt a secondary reservoir will be necessary but it wouldn't hurt anything. I plan on running Bilsten 7100's with the secondary reservoir but only after installation of a subframe drop kit. 4. This might be best left answered by AC. You should send an e-mail to see what Mike @ AC can tell you. That or hopefully someone can chime in on here. Hopefully, that's helped some.

I'd say 32's would be ideal for clearance up front. Not sure about 33's but there's a first time for everything.

PM sent.

No, experience. I ordered a replacement brake caliper at NAPA, and ended up getting one for the '99.5-'04. After installing it, my wheel would not mount back on properly, and rubbed the new caliper to no end. Perhaps the part numbers are the same, but the specifications changed?

Hmmm, I wonder why... Good information, nevertheless. I thought the bigger brakes started with the VQ change in '01.

A flotation tire is one that's measured in inches, rather than metric. Even though I'm currently running 32x10.5 Toyo A/T's, they're measured in metric as 265/75 on the sidewall. Flotation tires read in inches on the sidewall.

Yeah, you'd be coming across some clearance issues with 15's on your R50 (bigger brake on the VQ). I don't know if BFG makes 33" flotation tires to fit a 16" wheel; I know for a fact Toyo doesn't. I do know BFG makes a 35x12.5 to fit a 17" wheel so that might be worth considering. It seems to me a common size for flotation tires is 33x12.5R15. And yes, you can make a 12.5" wide tire fit a 8" wheel but I'm planning on some nice 15x10 machined alloys with a maximum BS of 3.75"... I think that's a good number to work with in terms of either 8" or 10" wide wheels.

For 20-30 seconds of turning two dials, it's worth it. Otherwise, have fun replacing your CV axles every few months.