tekazgtr1984

More than most R50 owners, I think.

Penetrating fluid should do the trick. After that, load it up with some rust inhibitor/all-weather lube to keep it in good working order.

My gf's brother runs 33x12.5 MT-Rs on his Zuk Samurai and it's his daily driver at the moment. He says for a mud tire, they kick ass on the street. I can vouch for that as I have ridden in the Zuk both on the trails and on the street. I have heard the Toyos are pretty good street-wise as well but until I see/hear it for myself, it's all speculative.

That was my guess, too. Those bushings might be pretty thick but considering where they're located, they take a lot of abuse, especially if that crappy mud guard is gone. I replaced mine last night and the difference in tightness has been noticeable (the left bushing was severely deterioated and I could move the rack just a bit by hand). Now the skid plate can go back on, too. BTW, the bushings cost $35.

Thanks for pointing out the obvious...

Those new Goodyear A/T tires look pretty damn good. I'd still much rather rock a M/T-R or just go Toyo M/T... But for an A/T, looks like it's pretty beefy.

I've owned my '98 for over a year now and have yet to experience any of the previously mentioned sounds related to the A/C compressor... I am definitely going to keep an ear open more diligently next time I run the A/C.

Beefy!!

Doesn't sound like a very educated or confident mechanic to me. Try another shop.

No problem. That's what my take on this whole AC/OME debate is.

Exactly. By installing the SFD alone, you'd gain 4". Your CV axles would have OEM angles. If you add the lift coils either way, you'd gain an additional 2" but your CV axles would be angled with or without the SFD.

If you did the alignment yourself, I'd say it's still off. The steering wheel should be straight and on-centre after an alignment.

All I know is they're the OME HD coils installed and they offer way more lift than .5" based on how it sits. In the front, I'd say it has settled between ~1.25-1.5"; the rear ~1.5"-1.75" (but I don't think the rear has necessarily 'settled' as there's hardly any weight there). As far as I know, OME offers a range of coils in various sizes and types. 0.5" is the least, 1.75" is the most. Check with Fueler, too. There are also a couple other members here who have them installed.

I assume with adequate backspacing (~2.5") they'll fit but they'll be rubbing a lot at full lock on turns...

OME HD 1.75" coils, KYB GR-2 struts w/ OEM hardware, Bilstein 5150s with no sway bar in the rear.

The OME coils are better in terms of quality and durability; the AC coils will more than suffice, though. As for struts, I'd say OME or KYB. Rear shocks, Bilstein is my top choice.

Did you check the intake? The airbox could be full of mud, too. Wash it up, check everything for clogs and then you'll be good.

So you're going to take out the lift coils when you install the SFD?

4.5" should be fine. I think the absolute maximum is 4.75"-5".

Yup, stick to what's good. NGK+Nissan=Giggity!

Thanks for chiming in on that, Adam. I was clueless.

Spacers are best avoided, IMO. Offset wheels are always a better alternative. As for tires, I'd say stick with an A/T. Toyo's Open Country all-terrain has served me quite well when sand wheeling.

With just the front coils installed you can expect considerable topping out at first and then becoming less frequent as the coils settle. Spacers will more than likely just add to the problem.

Damn straight!

Long term, there is a definite offset in the improved MPG you will get by having manual hubs.