jyeager

DJ, you seem set on getting new struts and springs. Is there something wrong with the ones currently on the vehicle? Replacing these are not necessary for the lift options you are considering. Whether you go with a strut spacer or the SFD option, both of those options are good (I suggest best) with stock springs/shocks. Your question about the rear WJ coils...For the 4" SFD, you want 4" of lift in the rear. The WJ coils that give the WJ 3" of lift will give the Pathfinder 4" of lift. So shop for Jeep Cherokee (WJ) coils that give a 3" lift over the stock height. If you do replace your struts for new ones, always replace the strut bearing and strut isolator at the same time. Those are wear parts and need replacing periodically. It's always best to do those when replacing your struts. Can you use the longer shocks before your lift? Only if the compressed length of the new shock is less than your suspension can compress. And I don't know that answer because I haven't measured the Pathfinder's suspension travel.

It's only when applying the brake pedal, right? Then it's really got to be the rotors. Even if you have had new rotors over and over, you still have to check the rotors. If that mechanic won't look again, take it some place new and ask them to check the rotors for runout. If they find runout, then your rotors are warped. There are perhaps 3 things that could cause new rotors to be warped like this so soon. 1) cheap, inferior rotors 2) in some cases jacking on the lug nuts with far too much torque 3) extreme heat buildup, due to dragging brake pads If there is a little bit of runout, but it's basically within reasonable tolerances, then your calipers may not be floating on their pins properly and that function should be checked and fixed.

I like the Texas flare. That's pretty great. I have a question you might be able to answer. I see trucks all the time, usually Jeeps with that hoop leaning way out forward. I understand a grill guard...but is there an additional purpose in leaning it out so far forward? I'm sure my question shows ignorance of basic off-road knowledge....but I am very new to all things off-road. Thanks. And I'm glad you got some relief for the back pain and are feeling better.

x2 for Krypton Fabs. I just installed his lift in my truck. But if you are looking for a 2nd hand SFD, I don't know how you would find one. Perhaps someone about to do a solid axle swap who had already lifted via SFD...

Unfortunately not, or I could come over and bend things for you. I live in the Nashville area. I've been to Austin in the past. I like the town a lot.

You can try loosening the lower control arm bolts (with vehicle on the ground), then retightening. Was the vehicle sitting level before you did this work, and then saggng afterwards?

So how did it go yesterday? What awesome progress did you make?

In what ways has the suspension been modified? (lift of any kind?) There is a tendency for the strut towers to rust out. I see you are in the snow belt. When you say that your strut mount is bad, what part exactly do you mean? If you eliminate any and all other issues, it can come down to simply having 2 springs that weren't manufactured the same....and have taken a set differently. ie slightly different metallurgy, different heat treat and so on. And I believe that I've seen someone having this problem because suspension bolts were torqued down while the vehicle was on the lift (only 1 side) and it left it jacked up a bit because bushings were binding and taking some of the weight.

It sounds like Kyle took you to mean turning a '97 into an '02 completely! I think you were asking if you can put an '02 engine in your '97. But he did include the answer there, in that it uses a different bell-housing. But I wouldn't be surprised if there were other incompatibilities in the sensors (I do NOT know that, just something to look out for) If you want more power, there are probably other good options that don't require retrofit headaches. What are your goals? What has you thinking of an '02 engine?

At least the heat will keep your back warm. I know what you're going through because I've had the ruptured disc thing for 30 years now. I think I'll drive over to your place tonight and we will fabricate 2 sets of bumpers together. I'll bring the beer, you bring the welder!

I have the same rims and tires. I mounted them before any lift. I got 33x 12.5. If you get narrower tires it will rub less. But in my case, I had to cut out the bottom 6" of the plastic fender liner. Then, behind the tire I had to fold back some of the metal at the very bottom of the fender. The front plastic was still rubbed by sharp turns, but I am considering using a heat gun to clearance it rather than more cutting (which might expose some of the engine compartment to spray) I now have a 4" lift all around and only the smallest rub. It has more clearance after the lift and probably could have allowed for even less cutting if I had done this after the lift.

Try lifting your front end and turning the steering wheel all the way to the side where you hear the noise (or hear it most). Then turn both wheels by hand and check for binding or grinding. Since you have to be moving (and you don't think it's the power steering pump), then it's got to be moving parts (as in parts that turn as you roll) and parts that move when you steer. Does the noise only occur while the steering wheel is actively turning? Then I would look at your lower ball-joint and your strut bearing. If I happens while rolling forward even after you have turned the wheel and then hold it in place, I would check the wheel bearings and cv axles.

No, it shouldn't hurt anything at all.

I like your garage. Get to work, but stop and take photos for us!

I don't think the factory thermostat is 180 degrees. Why is it that you want to see your gauge read below the middle? The gauge is not a simple (stupid) gauge. The computer tells the gauge what to read and when the temperature is within a fairly broad range, the gauge reads right in the middle. They don't trust owners to see their temp gauge moving around with normal fluctuations without getting panicked and taking it to the dealership for service. So if you put in a 180 degree, or 170 degree (I think stock is 190), it will probably still read right in the middle. Is that what you were trying to ask?

Regarding the idea of longer control arms...here's my thought on that (I'm lifted too...just recently, so am in the same boat). As the axle drops from the body (or the body lifts up from the axle) the tires swing slightly forward and can look out of center. But when the suspension compresses out on the trail, especially so when articulating, it swings back up, centering the wheel again just as it's tucking in to the rear fender. If we lengthen the control arms to center it at static height, then as it tucks upward, it will move too far backward and rub the back side of the wheel well when fully tucked (if it ever gets there???) So I'm wary of the idea of lengthening my control arms. What do you all think?

Your tire looks fine.

I recommend first, that you verify that the new leak is in the slave. I say this because the seals on the old slave were old enough to allow it to leak, so then perhaps they are on the master too... So check the master for leaks. It would be leaking out the back side along the clutch rod attached to your clutch pedal. The fluid would be on the interior of the truck up high where you might not see it et (soaking in to the carpet) And it's also pretty likely that a fitting wasn't tightened enough when the slave was replaced and it could simply be that. But if you check it out and find the leak is the slave, then you simply got a bad slave and it sucks...but it can happen.

Thanks for setting me straight! I was wrong.

A pump is a pump. If it plugs in to your connector and you can mount it, then it will work.

You will need 2 spare axles because left and right are different. You should bring a spare tie rod.

That's more end play than I would expect to see in the axles. Do both sides move that much? I'm fairly certain that mine barely move.

What I did was cut the plug off the old speakers I was removing. Then I spliced that on to the wires on the new speakers. After soldering and shrink wrapping, it was a plug n play deal using the factory connector.

I'm trying to reason out your shimmy. The camber problem needs to be addressed, but really, how can camber cause the shimmy? It will eat up the edges of your tread, of course. Have your tires become feathered/cupped? Such that the tire tread itself is bouncing your tires? As far as I can figure, only toe should be able to cause a shimmy. But here's a question for you....what is the condition of your inner and outer steering links? And the steering rack bushings? If those are sloppy or worn, your tires can oscillate between turning left and turning right at a very high frequency, creating your shimmy. Also, it would tend to go away while turning due to the forces.

And I would ignore the knock sensor until you resolve the misfire issue. Misfire could be triggering the knock sensor. (perhaps?) But if you truly have a miss and a knock, then you might have a worst case scenario. But I don't see why that would only begin after you hit 60. edit: you might consider the fuel pump. (I see you changed filter) See if you can measure fuel pressure when you are driving at 60 and it's missing.