jyeager

Ah yes! Very great idea... I would like to also do a SFD, so the rear springs would need 6" of spacers. BTW, are there spacers for us that go inside the top-hat? I only recall seeing spacers for above the strut... Thanks.

I'm contemplating custom coils rather than the usuals... So I wonder if anyone has ever gotten corner weights? Or, as an alternative, can you say authoritatively what the stock spring rates are? I would want replacement springs that maintain the stock rate, but lift 1-2"...which means a longer free height. Also, if anyone has gone the route of custom coils, do you have a recommended vendor? Thanks!

It sounds like you love the vehicle...but it does sound like it would be unworthy the cost to rehab it. So I suggest selling it and getting yourself another, fresher replacement. If you have a lot of upgraded parts that you want, keep those and put them on the new one.

When talking spring specs, it's the number of 'ACTIVE COILS' that is the important measure. In this photo, the AC springs have 6 active coils (count how many 'spaces' there are in the spring), and the stocker has 4 active coils.

Right. I'm wondering how/where he got a 6" strut spacer. Did he make it? Is he confident in the strength of a 6" spacer and the bolts used? The steering rack would only need to accommodate 3" of lift because it was dropped 6" with the SFD. Assuming the 1" spacer is inside the top-hat and the AC spring is in there too, that should create gobs of top-out. That's assuming the 1" spacer isn't stacked on top of the 6" strut spacer! Of course, if he made it anyway, he could have made it 7". What was done for the rear lift? Which coils did you adapt? How much of the rear lift was accomplished by spacer? Cool stuff.

Any luck finding it yet?

I wouldn't suspect the fuel system. It wouldn't just intermittently cut off and then on. It would sputter and surge and shudder. I am going to say ignition system. Get a new ignition module and wires/plugs.

Ok, here's the answer then. 6.5" wide rims are too narrow for that tire width. Since you will have to get new rims you can get them with the desired offset and not need spacers.

'97, I need to fix that typo. About 30 minutes ago, I thought to myself "I never actually looked where the oil filter should be...maybe that thing was the oil filter" and panicked a little over making a fool of myself. I've always taken it to the oil change place. I only bother to change my own oil on my babies that get synthetic and that I don't want other people touching. I was trying to think how many cars I've done my own oil changes on over the years...6+, more with helping others change theirs...and never seen one at the front of the engine. I don't know who should be more embarrassed...me or the engineer that designed this. I wondered if there was some super cool filter for the power steering fluid. I knew it was the transmission (my Saturn had a spin on filter for the tranny), because it wouldn't have been located up there any more than engine oil would have been --- so I thought. Thanks for not crucifying me. (or have I spoken too soon!??!!)

Changing the belts on my pathy yesterday I noticed a spin on filter hidden up under there. It's up front just behind the pullies and the nearest thing is the power steering pump. Here is a picture.

The 'how' was answered on one of the other deleted posts? I would like to hear the details.

One more requirement for 32" tires.... A spare must be mounted on the roof or swing-out carrier on the back. You can't fit a 32" spare tire in the location under the truck.

I would suggest that perhaps this ^ is the 'recommended' list, but the REQUIRED list would be: 1) a pair of front wheel spacers to clear your strut's spring perch. 2) Can you shoehorn 11.50" wide tires on to your stock 15" rims? Not entirely sure. Aren't they 7.5" wide? Maybe. So rims could be required, but might not be. 3) If your stock springs aren't sagging you might be OK with them if you are willing to potentially rub your fenders when you fully compress your springs. So a 1" lift (at a minimum) might be considered required. You could do that with a set of spacers. But it wouldn't cost any more or be any harder to use 2" spacers. 4) If you don't want rubbing on the fender liners when you turn tight, you would need to cut. You might get away without needing to cut if you got narrower tires (which would help with the stock rim width). Can you find 32" in 10.,5" wide? You can run 31" tires with no changes though....you might find that a better solution.

If your braking isn't very good, why are you focusing on the rear brakes? The rear brakes provide a small percentage of your stopping power. I'm asking because if you really only have a problem with your REAR braking, then I would suggest that you screwed up the adjustment of your LSV when you lifted your truck and you aren't getting any more braking force to the rear as a result.

Yes, that's enough voltage. If you are getting the voltage to the gauge and you have the correct amount of resistance at the sender, then the gauge itself must be the problem. That is, if you measured the voltage at the connector correctly. There is the 5 volt supply pin and there will be a ground pin. If you read voltage with your probes in both of those locations it's a good check. But if you just put your red probe in the connector and touched your black probe to a chassis ground then it's not foolproof...your problem could be a bad ground wire in that harness.

Well, just because resistance is fine across the sender doesn't mean that the gauge is getting the 5 volts it needs to send THROUGH the fuel sender. To determine the resistance, voltage must be sourced and the return voltage measured. Check at your cluster harness to see if the correct pin is getting 5 volts when the ignition is on.

Has anyone REALLY verified the gauge is bad by sourcing 5 volts to it with an inline variable resistor? Or are they just assuming it's bad because the sender is working?

You can always go with the standard go-fast upgrade of ported heads and custom ground camshaft. But I'm not sure if you would need the ECM reprogrammed and if so, if there are good options for that...

Sorry to ask this, but you don't mention checking your tranny fluid level.

FYI in case anyone is interested. I know they aren't the most awesome winches...But they've been improved over time and some folks give them a decent review and considering the price.... Harbor Freight is selling a 12,000lb winch for $300 right now. http://www.harborfreight.com/12000-lb-off-road-vehicle-electric-winch-with-automatic-load-holding-brake-61256.html use coupon code 52969012 for $100 off to bring it down to $299.99. That's only good to 2/28.

I thought about neoprene, but then thought about how that would feel against my skin for extended periods of time. It seems as though I would seat pretty badly. No?

Well, I ordered a set of these. http://www.seatcoversunlimited.com/Leatherette-p-16310.html Will let you know how they look.

Thanks for the recommendation. What else are people using?

One possibility is that whatever drains it only does so once activated by a start-cycle. Then, when you disconnect the battery cable to take your reading, it's reset until you use it again. That being the case, I'm not sure how you would isolate it.