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Everything posted by jyeager

  1. I notice you live in the snow belt. I once had this problem with a car and when I described it to people they said I was dumb. But it turns out the next owner had the body fall off the frame at a speed bump. Check for some structural components being rusted through.
  2. It's always on a hot restart? Vapor lock? (perhaps involving the charcoal canister)
  3. That 2nd sensor looks to be the ambient air temperature sensor. Is that in front of the battery, toward the vehicle's grill? I also can't quite get my bearings on the first picture. What side of the engine? If I had to guess, I think I'm seeing it inside an exhaust runner? Or is that an intake runner? But it seems to be integrated with the piping...which would lead me to believe it's the EGR system or the AIR system. EGR = exhaust gas recirculation which is used to improve emissions in some situations AIR = air injection system to treat exhaust gasses, also for emissions
  4. To elaborate on what mjotrainbrain said... to lift with springs changes all of the suspension geometry angles which affects all of the suspension attributes (bump steer and alignment for instance). And the limitation with this vehicle is the CV joint angles, which limit you to about 2.5" maximum. This also results in a suspension that has more compression than extension which causes another set of problems. When lifting by SFD, none of that is affected and the suspension can retain all of the stock characteristics while getting a lift. It's great. The only thing it doesn't improve is the ground clearance at the differentials, but that's the nature of the thing.... All in all, it's the better way to lift IMO.
  5. I have a 4” lift and need new rear shocks. I would like to get the Bilstein 5125 series. What particular model would you recommend? Thanks!
  6. My trans is at 336,000 miles and operates perfectly. It is a bit annoying with 4” lift and 33” tires that it downshifts on the interstate whenever there is a little rise in the road. But that’s not a transmission problem.
  7. Based on the fact you don't hear this with your hubs disconnected...and you don't hear it with the hubs connected and the T-case engaged (mostly), but you DO hear it when the hubs are driving the driveshafts... I would suspect you have a bad CV axle. Either the joint, or bad bearings on either end allowing the axle to jump around. You should be able to check this by lifting the wheels and getting under and man-handling the axles. Looking for excessive play in any direction.
  8. Like he said: ^ I would be expecting those bubbles to have been coming in around the bleeder or bleeder hose. There just aren't a lot of places for those bubbles to be hiding between the master and the right front caliper. If the air was coming in anywhere else then you either let the master cylinder empty while bleeding, or you must have such a bad leak there would be no fluid in the front brakes whatsoever. I doubt either of those are the case, so suspect it's just a bad seal at the bleeder hose. How do the brakes perform?
  9. Exactly the size I have. Except you didn’t mention the rim width, so how could anyone answer your question about them sticking out too far??
  10. This is great! There are so many ways to go with this. Obviously, the plan you have is a good one. You could also offer a bracket that is specifically designed to mount any XJ bumper, and from there you could add a couple more pieces to the kit which would be additional weld-on skirt pieces to cover the otherwise exposed parts. Or holy grail! Design it like you have, perhaps with just some tweaks to accomplish everything you are already thinking, plus just happens to bolt to an XJ bumper at the same time. Two options for people from one set of brackets. But without having the slightest clue as to what the XJ mount placement looks like, I may have just said something stupid. Once you build your bumper that goes along with the mounts, you can at least make the CAD drawings available so others can take that to a local shop and get them made to stitch together. Question regarding your new skid plate. I have a front skid from KRFabs to go with my 4" SFD. That skid doesn't bolt to a fender. In your mind, would that skid be compatible with a new bumper built in this way? Or would you think it necessary to have a new skid plate designed that ties to a new bumper?
  11. This is great. If I keep dragging my feet on a bumper solution, then I may be able to benefit from this.
  12. Brian, don’t buy one for $130. https://m.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided
  13. I didn’t really describe that “sealing the MC” correctly. I have a bleed kit with various fittings. One of which is a top that goes on the MC that allows a bottle of brake fluid to screw it upside down from the top. It let me pull a LOT of fluid through without having to keep running back and forth to keep the MC full.
  14. Hey Brian, sorry for the delay in answering. I used a mityvac hand pump to vacuum bleed a few times with no luck. What worked for me was a vacuum bleeder that hooks to an air compressor. Like this one: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XIuj2a6tx6Y The reason is that the LSV is a high spot. Every other method of bleeding uses a slow movement of fluid which won’t carry the air bubbles along so they will stay in the LSV. Without opening that bleeder you need something that moves the fluid fast enough to carry the bubbles downward. So the vacuum pump that uses an air compressor works. I had to sacrifice a whole quart of clean fluid to get it, but brakes have been great for 2 years now.
  15. I had a bad brake pedal from the moment I bought my Pathy. It didn’t do emergency stops properly. Mechanics said it was fine, but were wrong. I bought a used MC. No change. Bled it 3 times. No change. Bought a NEW MC. Mechanic installed and bled. No better. Then I bled it with a vacuum pump. At first, it got air, then just pure fluid. But then I sealed the MC and held vacuum. That pulled a crap-load of air (finally). Probably from the LSV, which I couldn’t bleed for the same reason as you. I strongly suggest you vacuum bleed rather than pressure-bleed or gravity bleed.
  16. "(I went with Ironman as I wanted the softest lift spring I could get to maintain articulation, especially at the front). If they sag then that's what strut spacers are for, right?" ^ Smart! I agree. Those springs are listed in their catalog as having a free height of 370mm. Obviously, you need to know the distance between spring perches when your shock is fully extended to 688 mm to determine if they are long enough to remain seated when those shocks are fully extended.
  17. Yep, I will bet while the steering wheel is being turned, you could watch your steering rack move instead of the tires.
  18. A couple of questions for you: 1) Does the engine vibrate badly at idle, both when it's in gear and when it's in neutral? 2) how long have you had the vibration in your steering wheel? Was it before all the front-end work too? Or just since all that work was done? 3) what wheels (rims) do you have?
  19. like Slartibartfast suggests, remove the drive shaft and drive it. Make absolutely sure it is or is NOT that driveshaft so you know you are focusing on the real cause.
  20. I would say yes, the switch wires have been reversed...or the switch has been replaced with the wrong part. Also possible is that the wires were reversed at the motor.
  21. You say the starter is good, how have you verified this? This is the obvious symptom of a failed/failing solenoid. However, if you have somehow had your starter solenoid verified as good, then check for a loose battery cable.
  22. For those of you familiar with the front corner lamps, I have one that won't stay in. Pops out due to wind when I drive. I have found that the plastic bushing/grommet (don't know what to call it) is gone. This is in the hole that receives the 'stud' on the back of the corner lamp. I'm wondering where to get a replacement, so my corner lamp will stay in? And yes, it's bolted by the 1 bolt at the top of the core support, but that's a weak plastic extension from the housing and it can twist/flex and will soon break if the housing isn't retained by that stud in the back. Thanks!
  23. That's interesting....so your air filter is completely removed from the system now (even if it's still in the box, the air is bypassing it). So then I have to ask, how big is the screen you covered your 4" hole with? Because if that screen's mesh is larger than the mesh in the MAF, you may have debris stuck in your MAF screen. And if it's smaller than the screen in the MAF, there may be a noticeable restriction. The only way something like this might result in overheating is if it has the computer retarding the timing significantly. I would first troubleshoot the cooling problem the way you would if you had never modified your air box. Meaning, assume that's not it.
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