jyeager

Everyone who says you're fine on stock brake lines with stock shocks may be forgetting that you have that 2.5" spacer. (I'm not sure stock lines have that much slack). About spring lift....you can lift with springs further than most because you have no cv joints to worry about. But without a SFD, just lifting with springs and spacers, you introduce bump-steer, if that bothers you, you also need to fix your camber, which isn't adjustable--so you need camber bolts. And give much lift with springs, and you can experience top-out. When the wheel drops down the strut rams against its stop and makes a loud, frightening sound. So those are some things to consider.

It definitely sounds as if it's related to the wind speed. So keep investigating that route.

I think the answer might be both. The IAC should raise your idle for you when you place it in gear.

If that learning procedure didn't complete successfully that could just be your issue. And it will probably relearn on it's own with time. I recently had the battery out of my Pontiac and when I first started it afterwards the idle was all over the place and seemed like it might die. But a 20 minute drive later it was fine. It just had lost it's long-term fuel trim values from memory and needed to repopulate that from closed loop operation. Or you may have an issue with your IACV installation like you suggest. Vacuum leaks can cause this behavior.

If your tranny fails after a fluid change, and because of the fluid change, it was going to fail later anyway. I changed my fluid at 300,000 miles. Tranny is still going strong. Just do it. When did it become wise to NOT perform routine maintenance?

Ah, I believe that's correct. My memory is fuzzy and I didn't remember where my stereo side harness came from. I did the soldering/shrink wrapping thing. Thanks for the correction.

Dude. If the timing marks jump around, your timing belt is about to blow a hole in the space-time continuum. Replace that timing belt before you drive another mile!

I have an update. Dug in to it some more yesterday. I was able to push the control panel in, angle it and pull it part way out before the connections in the back stopped me. With it part way out there was just BARELY enough room to remove the switch assembly from the panel. It's really hard to release and I cracked a little something getting it out. But it's out and I should be able to get it back in fine. The light bulb comes out very easily after the switch mechanism is removed. (it's in the switch mechanism) It's a Neo3 bulb. Available on SuperbrightLEDs.com. I don't believe the switch assemblies are available separately (not that I need it). The 'nissan' way of getting a new bulb is to buy a new HVAC control panel for > $100. If anyone knows otherwise, let me know please.

Crutchfield sells stereo-specific harness adapters. I have a Sony and bought a harness that adapts Nissan to Sony. Your adapter harness will depend on the brand of stereo you choose.

In addition to what Johan has listed, you will need 4" strut spacers. You will want them to be cut at specific angles to maintain your camber alignment or you may have a really hard time getting correct camber. It is recommended that you get new brake lines, but you can see if your current brake lines can handle 4 more inches of down travel. Off-hand I'm not sure if they might reach or if it's mandatory to get longer ones. Also, Johan did not mention the rear suspension. You will obviously want 4" in the rear also. You can do this by getting rear springs for a Jeep XJ. Get XJ lift springs advertised as giving 3" lift. On the pathfinder, that gives you 4". The springs will need a little bit cut off one end. Then you will want longer travel shocks to go with that. Get rear shocks for an F-250. (off-hand I forget which model years). You will probably need a longer rear brake line and will probably want a longer differential breather hose. Then to finish off the rear lift, I recommend you build up a panhard bar drop backet to keep the rear suspension geometry correct.

Ok. Thanks. Clarification: are you saying it doesn't look like the bulbs can be removed, or the switches entirely? I'm wondering if replacing the switch is an option. Thanks.

I'm putting LED bulbs in my dash. No problems getting the illumination lights replaced in the climate control. I removed the front panel and pulled the old bulbs from their bases and plugged in the new LED bulbs. I first tried removing the climate control and couldn't do it. Even removing the radio to reach up. The problem is something solid about 1" behind the climate control unit such that it can't be pushed back in and out. And it can't be turned and pulled out forward because of the wiring harness and I can't get it all disconnected with the access I have. So I really am not sure how it could be removed. But since I didn't need to, no probem, right? Well, when I was done, the A/C indicator light in the push button didn't work anymore. So how in the world do I replace that bulb? I pulled the button off and I see the bulb inside, but it is coming down from above. I think that switch assembly will need to be removed to change the bulb. Does anyone know how to get that switch assembly out of the climate control? Is it possible from the front? Thanks.

I just crawled underneath it. Don't even remember lifting it, but not sure. I seem to remember a very short handled box wrench and turning the nut about 10 degrees at a time. I think I had to patiently lay under there and tell myself that in 10 minutes, I would be done. (speaking of the battery cable). I think I removed the starter bolts before undoing the battery cable, just like you, upon disassembly. But on reassembly, I mounted the starter first. Might not have been the best way to go. The cable has to be removed before you can twist and turn the starter as needed to thread it out.

I assume that you are unable to separately adjust the shut-off temperature? What temp is your thermostat? It must not be a typical 190 degree thermostat. Regardless, you are using (or trying to use) radiator coolant temp to turn your fans on and off. I assume it's not cooling enough with the hood closed because the hot air it's pulling past the radiator has no where to go. If you were driving down the road you may not have any trouble with it turning off. Remember that just because the ECT hit 190 degrees, doesn't mean the radiator coolant temp was anywhere near that. If the engine hadn't circulated a full radiator's worth of coolant yet when you turned your dial to match the engine's 190 degree temp, the radiator could have been at 150 for all I know.... Just a thought.

Definitely search youtube for an instructional video. I haven't changed the starter on my Pathfinder, but have on a 4x4 Frontier. 1 starter bolt is easy to reach, the 2nd starter bolt required a swivel and a LONG (2+ feet) extension and with that setup it was easy. Then, once the bolts are removed and connector disconnected, getting the starter out is like a 3D jigsaw puzzle. It will seem like it cannot come out without removing something, but with the right combination of turns and twists, it will come out. It may take you 5-10 minutes to find the combination of moves, but just know it comes out without removing anything else.

It's likely the amp. Or the relay that powers the amp. Find someone who can read a schematic and can test the connector in to the amp. Under the left-rear panel. When the stereo is turned on, a signal wire from the radio to the amp tells it to turn on. But then it takes it's power from a separate circuit. These can easily be tested with a volt-meter. Standard electrical troubleshooting will determine if the amp is bad or if it's a problem somewhere in one of the circuits. If it's just the amp, replace it with a $100 aftermarket amp that's small enough to replace the factory amp. Or for that matter, find a direct replacement amp on ebay.

This would be an easy misconception to have. If you are thinking of a locker as a welded or literally locked differential then when turning, both wheels have to turn the same speed and they are fighting each other. When traction is high at both tires that can be very strenuous. But lockers like the Lokka allow one wheel to turn faster than the drive wheel when turning so everything works in harmony as the others described above.

Thanks for posting up. I especially appreciate the pictures. My rear lights will be at the back corners of the roof, so I'm going to need to run the wire from back there. I was wondering if I should run them back above the head liner, or come forward behind the side trim panel(s). I will look in to running them up that channel for the roof rack, but I'm not sure that I want the headache that would create if/when adjusting my cross bars. And my light bar will have to be mounted to the roof at the front most portion just above the A pillars. I'm expecting to drill a hole and run the wires down under the A-pillar trim inside. Any advice?

I'm planning to install a light bar and a couple of work lights at the rear on the roof. Wondering how others have run the wiring? Thanks.

Yep! I did NOT mean to say pinion, but you figured me out. And this can end up on just one side. Fluid will fling off right away at high enough speeds and can show up on one side due to the direction of rotation.

DO NOT assume that the holes on one slider match the holes on the other slider. Not sure if I understood you right, but it sounded like you are going to use 1 side to make a template for the other.

BTW, replacing the rear pinion seal is very easy! So that would be good.

The trans lines will be coming from the right side of the case and heading up toward the right side of the radiator. But there is another possibility. You assume it's pressurized fluid because of the way it's flung all around. That's also what you will see if it' leaking out of the rear pinion seal. It will end up on the slip yoke and the super high rotating speed flings it off and all over the pace. That's my vote. Most likely and obvious source by about 90%.

If you want a roof rack, I would go with something like Yakima rather than factory. I found my factory cross-bars to be too weak to safely use to mount my bikes up there and removed it for a Yakima. Same goes if you plan to mount a basket or luggage carrier, IMO.

Cam or Crank sensors would set a code. cleaning MAF could help...but only for the issue where you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running. If it's having trouble starting, it's pretty easy to tell if it's struggling to turn the engine over strong enough, or it's just having trouble lighting it up. Is it cranking slowly, or labored? If so, it's batter/starter-even if you just got a new battery. If it's cranking fast, but won't catch...not sure what to check there, maybe MAF, but not sure how much it relies on the MAF sensor during cranking.