jyeager

About your 33's. I had t cut some plastic on the front of the front wheel openings. Also had to cut metal at the back of the front wheel openings. This may be dependent on your spacers. I got new rims with 3.75" backspacing and that may push them slightly farther out than your wheel spacers. Nonetheless, I recommend you do it.

Well, they are CV joints, not Ujoints. By design they do not and can not introduce vibrations at different angles. However, the removal test is still valid in helping to identify the source of vibration. I would ask the OP what else changed when he lifted it? New tires and/or wheels by any chance? Or did you have a rotate and balance done at the same time? And further up, someone suggested caster could be off? However, the Caster doesn't change. It's engineered in and not adjustable. So caster won't be the steering issue. I would jump right under there and check out those rack bushings. If the bushings are great, the rack itself might be worn out.

Well, it sounds like neutral worked once. It's been intermittent, so nothing proven yet. But I will keep my fingers crossed. Btw, do you have the factory security system?

I'm not surprised. Can't say that I've pushed it to 5K in 3rd gear, but with the pedal all the way down you won't shift in to overdrive until it's about out of revs. They are also pretty conservative about torque converter lockup. You won't see lockup until you are cruising with very light load. A stiff headwind on the interstate is enough to keep my TC from locking up. Make sure you don't mistake the torque converter lockup with shifting to OD, it seems like a shift.

I didn't know the R50 had ignition coils (plural). Thought it was a distributor ignition with just 1 coil.

Fans turn on normally? You don't have fans that turn on. Thoughts: Low coolant. Failed fan clutch Partially clogged radiator (quite common after a coolant flush)

It's pretty common for vibration to come and go due to the slight imbalances lining up or going out of phase with each other. Since the front tires don't both travel the same distance when you are turning (or even going straight if there are differences in pressure), they will always be lining themselves up differently. When the heavy spots are in phase, you feel an accentuated vibration. When they shift to out of phase you feel nothing. I'm not sure exactly how accurate balancing machines are. Meaning, I'm not sure what their allowable tolerances are. Or if the operator took the time to calibrate the machine. Also, they may have simply done a static balance. Meaning it's balanced vertically, with all the weights on the inside of the rim. But if this is done and there are differences in balance laterally between the inside and outside of the rim, your steering wheel will shimmy left/right at certain speeds. If this could be the case, try asking for a dynamic balance. The balance machine tells them how much weight to add on the inside as well as the outside of the rim to balance it. That's if you are willing to have weights visible on the outside. And lastly, there could be an out of round condition that can't be balanced out, but the tires will bounce just as they would if out of balance. The solution for this is a "road force balance" where a drum applies 1000lbs of force to the tire as it spins it. If it detects that it's out of round, it will indicate that the tire should be rotated on the rim to try to pair the rim's low spot with the tire's high spot and it could (not sure about this) specify adding more weight near the low spot. In effect making it out of balance in a way that will help to compensate for the tire's high spot. That's about all I have to say about balance. I can tell you that my current set of tires are horrible and I've had them balanced 3 times and it's horrible. I'm pretty sure the tire carcass is bad on all 4 of these tires and that they must not be round. good luck.

That happened to me once. Turned out I had a loose battery cable.

It's probably a safe assumption that this is new and immediately after your bushing changes. Therefore, it's a result of the bushing changes. And of course, anything else you touched in the process should be suspect (such as the sway bar which you mentioned). Here are the ideas that come to mind: You didn't snug down one of the bolts enough One or more of the bushings has the wrong diameter inner sleeve and there is too much play around the bolt Bolts didn't all go back in their original locations such that a smaller diameter bolt got used somewhere Inspect any brackets/shields that you removed for access and make sure none are still unbolted Shock bolts? (if they were unbolted)

Let's go back inside the box for a moment. :0 You seem to be clearly describing play in the spline to hub interface. Irish said that it's not a likely point of failure. Well, I can't speak to the likelihood, but I can say that a couple of years ago I was almost stranded in some mud when my front hub stripped. Why in the world would the axle to hub strip out? Who knows. But it did. Then it made a horrible clicking/grinding sound when I drove it to the shop for R&R. Your hub flange may be bad and, if so, proactively replacing it (them) now might save you an axle.

The boots don't hold fluid. Seems as though your seals are leaking and allowing the fluid to get past and into the boot on your driver's side. I'm not familiar with the rack enough to say whether you can readily replace a seal or whether you should get a new rack.

That is genius! patent that now.

like hawa said, I would recommend stock springs with spacers for your lift. It's just plain better all around. I would save stiffer springs for compensating for something like an off-road bumper/winch type of thing. I have the KYB struts and they are fine, but don't use their strut bearings. Very cheap. Pay up for good strut bearings. You would probably be happy with the Monroe struts...my random impression is that they might be just a bit better quality than KYB, but not sure where I got that impression.

I have to agree with the others. When the interior is already sun-soaked it takes all cars quite a while to overcome that, plus with my Pathy, I find that when the outside temp is over 95f and the sun is shining, it never quite gets comfortable....but if a cloud obscures the sun, it does quite well then. I also have the problem that it never cools acceptably unless I'm cruising constant on the highway at higher speeds with good, continuous airflow. A/C is working fine, I've checked the pressures....it's just that a mechanical fan is never enough to cool the condenser in stop and go traffic. I remember my brand new suburban being that way from the day I drove it off the lot. I'm considering installing an auxiliary electrical pusher fan in front of my condenser to help.

How regularly does it happen? If it's somewhat rare, then it's going to be hard to be there to catch it when it happens. But here's what I'm thinking... what 1 thing could result in he alarm system arming and going off? A bad lock switch. Now you have a door switch that tells the security system when a door is open/closed, but for arming purposes you have a lock switch on each door that tells it when all doors are locked. If one of these is bad and randomly opens/shorts it could cause both behaviors....maybe. Here's what I don't know. I THINK that my alarm only arms itself if I lock the doors from the outside or if I lock them with 1 door open then shut it....meaning that I don't think it arms itself if I'm sitting in the car and lock my doors. Then I would set off my own alarm when I get out. But double check that. If your car arms when you are inside and hit that lock button, then you might have your culprit. Another thing to check that would have to be true for this to be the situation: That if it's armed and you reach through an open window and just UNLOCK the door, does it go off then? Or does it require you to open the door to set it off? If it requires you to open the door before going off, it also cannot be a lock switch issue. So if that doesn't pan out, I would be looking for something more central, like a failing alarm unit or bad connections or wiring troubles closer to the alarm controller such that it's getting intermittent shorts to power or ground on some circuit to the computer.

No. If the car is unlocked, the alarm isn't armed.

You have an error in your logic. If you do a SFD, there is no change to your CV angle at all (assuming you add the same amount of space above the strut as you do at the subframe. You would have 6" of lift, but the exact CV angle you have now. However, if you want to put your CV angles back to stock, you can drop the subframe 4" and only space your struts 2". Your strut spacers then wouldn't be angled, so you will most likely need camber adjustment bolts, but no big deal.

Ok, did my homework with Google. My model year doesn't have an ATP light, so I didn't know. If everything is working right, it's telling you that your transfer case is stuck in Neutral and your transmission is in Park. And it's warning you that in this situation, your vehicle could roll away unexpectedly. It's not saying that it WILL roll, but it could pop out of gear and roll away. Everything you've described is consistent with the proper functioning of this feature. Make sure your transfer case is in one of the 3 gears and NOT in neutral. Your Tcase has 2Hi, 4Hi, Neutral, 4Lo. If your transfercase is absolutely, positively, definitely in one of the gears, and not neutral then the Transfer case's switch could be bad, or the wiring for it is shorted to another circuit somewhere. I really don't think this would throw a trouble code.

Not sure what the ATP switch is. Your part number seems to be a backup switch...which would turn on the backup lights when the transmission is in reverse. But there's no warning light for that on the dash, is there?

Have you considered that it may just be an exhaust leak in the passenger side manifold?

Darn! Poor Betsy. Why did you change direction?

Yes, that's the right one for your pathfinder. I have the same one, although I haven't installed it yet. A lot of folks have them and like them. I would guess that everyone that has one, also has manual hubs. If you retain your factory, full-time hubs, you will probably hear it ratcheting when you turn when driving, even in 2-wd. But if you are running the manual hubs unlocked you won't.

"front hubs have a continuous loud clicking sound when turning only" Probably means your hubs and cv axles are bad and both must be replaced. Not a big problem for an $800 truck. If you can do this yourself, it will be easy and not too expensive. But if you have to hire it out, it's still worth it, but you need to have the $ available.

I had to trim to fit 33" tires on those rims. (trimming plastic) I had 31" tires on my stock rims and needed no trimming. Those rims move the tire more outboard and make it possible they could require a small amount of trimming, but based on how my 33s fit, I am guessing you won't need to trim anything.

I believe that this setup is fine. I know the tires fit, and I'm pretty sure these rims fit. I think they are the same rims I have (in a generic name brand). You could fit those tires on your stock rims, BTW. But if you do want new rims, prepare for the future and get them with 3.75" of backspacing so you can install larger tires on them in the future if you wanted to.