jyeager

I don't know all the factors that the engineers used in deciding the shift profile, but I always assumed that it was holding the downshift so long because that helps to minimize the number of up and downshifts when you hit a hill and then another one in quick succession. There have been a number of tactics by engineers to increase the lifespan of transmissions and this may be one of them. I hate it because I live in rolling hill country and on the interstate I can't leave overdrive on unless I want the car downshifting constantly. I have to just hold a certain throttle position and then it won't downshift in the first place (but I have to accept the truck slowing). This became noticeably annoying when I went from 31s to 33s and lifted 4". But I haven't regeared. I see my solution to this as decreasing my final drive ratio through new gearing. It might also help if I can get the computer to see less load on the engine so it doesn't downshift. That just means keeping it clean and tuned unless/until I dig in to the engine and can give it a new cam and reworked heads. Bumping up the power should mean that the MAP reading stays better under moderate loads.

You have described my truck since I have installed 33's. It's simply that the decreased effective gear ratio has increased the torque required to cruise at a given speed. The transmission behaves according to throttle position and load (MAP sensor reading) That's what you are experiencing. I assume your truck is lifted (increased aero drag) and has larger tires (decreased leverage).

I had to replace my reservoir last month. The old ones must all be like chalk by now. Just touch it and it collapses....mine was the same as yours.

Yes, that is true! One way or another it can get done. I'm also hoping for an answer to my amp question. Hey, I like your truck BTW (but who doesn't?) Thanks for posting.

ARB used to make one but they are all gone, some people have had luck looking for these in the used market. (I think front bumper only) As for the Jeep retrofit, you might to also want to consider the possibility of the same approach with an Xterra bumper. I don't know specifics, but I've heard discussions suggesting it might be another close fit that can be easily adapted. Then there is custom one-off by a local craftsman, which is what I think most people end up doing these days.

Hey. I have a '97 LE that was originally equipped with the NON-Bose factory stereo with a-pillar tweeters and rear mounted amplifier. I have a new head unit, adapted to the factory stereo harness and new door speakers all the way around, plugged in to the factory speaker wires. I got a component system for the front door speakers and replaced the factory tweeters with the tweeters included in the components system. But I did not install the included crossovers. At the time, I assumed the system had crossovers hidden somewhere and I now know from reading the factory schematics that this is not the case. So I'm currently sending all signal to the 2-ways in the front doors as well as to the a-pillar tweeters. The sound is reasonable to my very indiscriminate ears. But I understand that installing the supplied crossovers should be a big improvement. So one of my questions is: 1) Where does the factory front speaker wire tap off to the door speaker and the tweeter? It's not going to the speaker and then traveling on, like in the Bose setup....there were only 2 wires to the factory speakers...my guess is that it's behind the kick panel? I assume that's where I would want to install my crossovers. 2) What downside is there to the fact that I'm basically still using the factory amp with my different pieces? What was the factory HU's power output? My new one is 17watts RMSx4. And what output does the factory amp put out? Thanks!

What I did is that I replaced my single DIN unit with a double DIN Video receiver. I just removed an empty cubby to make room for the double height head unit. It came with a bezel that made it sit flush under the existing bezel and looks clean. I replicated the factory speaker setup by getting a component system for the front half (2-ways for the door, tweeters for pillar) and 3-way speakers for the rear doors.

Do you have the remote CD changer option? Other than that, your Bose system looks identical to my non-Bose system from 1997 (that has an optional amp). Is your head unit a single DIN or double DIN size? (2" high or 4" high?)

Here is the link to the 2002 FSM. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2002_Pathfinder/ If you want to increase the overall volume you need to output more watts. Either by getting a bigger amp, or getting a higher watt head unit. I've done the head-unit/speaker upgrade, but I'm still using the factory amp. I have no experience with replacing the amp. The trick way to do it would be to use the factory wiring and find an aftermarket amp that will fit in the stock location and utilize connector adapters, but I'm not sure anyone has ever done that. I don't know that the aftermarket supports this application with ready-made adapters.

Yeah, I also have the rear facing belt-fed .50 cal machine gun back there. I have an internal latch for the rear glass, so the gunner can open up the rear glass while driving and lay down fire! The .30 cal mounted to the door is just a backup.

Nice. I'm looking forward to the pictures. I would like to do the same, but am willing to drill in the roof. Would be nice to have a quick-disconnect bulkhead type of electrical connection in case the light needs to be removed at some point. I like the idea of having things buttoned up the way the OEM would have done it. (you may argue that does not include holes in the roof! ) But I haven't committed to an approach yet, so who knows?

The factory service manual is available online through links you can find on this site. It will tell you specifically how the Bose system was laid out in 2002. There is probably something you can do to use 4ohm speakers. One of which is to replace your head unit with a new one and use it without an amp, or with a new amp....but you want to avoid a new amp...so yes, you can bypass that amp altogether if you get a new head unit. I don't expect you want that option...so perhaps there's a way to adapt 4ohm speakers to a 2ohm system? There is also the possibility of just using the 4ohm speakers and just losing volume. You just need to turn the knob farther than you otherwise would.

I can't put a machete there because that's where I have my 30 caliber machine gun mounted.

That's a great use of that space too!

A well done bumper with integrated receiver hitch, solid spare tire holder and recovery shackles... Hopefully I could get it here to my location for $800? Perhaps $900-$1000 if it's finished.

BTW, I have this idea of using the spare tire location to create a 'live well' type of space underneath the rear hatch. To clarify, I would use the space to create a deep compartment, that is part of the interior. So instead of that 4" deep storage tray, it would be cavernous...and housing an air compressor and house battery(ies). Just offering that up in case the idea sounds like one you would like to adopt.

I'm planning a custom rear bumper/tire carrier myself. But I don't have fab/welding experience. So I'm going to have to hire someone to do it. If you are in a position to make 2 of them while you are at it, then I would love to talk about hiring you.

Can't wait to see these changes to your truck.

That's easy. I suggest Crutchfield. They will have adapters for plugging your stock speaker wires to the aftermarket speakers you buy. Their site will tell you which speakers will fit right in place of your factory speakers.

Well, it's certainly easier to do these things with a Toyo or Jeep...but is it the wrong platform regarding engine power? I would say no. You yourself say that gearing isn't the problem....power is never the problem if you have the gearing, so..... The main reason I would say that you have a right to question the platform is due to the Strut suspension up front. You have serious off-road limits without a solid front axle and putting one in the Nissan might be more trouble and/or cost than you want.

Good job busting down stereotypes! Have you implemented any traction enhancements yet? Or are you still "2-wheel drive"? I think you mentioned installing manual hubs and spooling your front differential? done that yet? What do you have in the rear? open? stock lsd? repacked lsd?

Based on the description of smoke and the question of honing the caliper, I'm thinking he meant that it didn't release clamping force. That, along with the onset immediately after an axle swap has me suspecting the caliper hung from the brake hose, or fell once, damaging the hose internally.

I would guess your brake line was damaged and is maintaining pressure. I doubt it's your caliper.

Oh no! That's tough luck.

I have 15x8s and they fit....but not all 15" rims are created equal. Some people have indicated that there was interference and they required a die grinder to slightly grind down a spot on their calipers for fitment.