SilverPath

Dang Change!! I had dimes stuck in my rails, took me forever to figure it out, partially because I was being too lazy to take the seats out.

My '99 does as well

Let me know if you ever let them go

you would be better off finding a wrecked rig with all the parts. Like David and Dennis did

Here is mine for more ideas on what you can do,

After I bashed my stock bumper into a rock at Evans I built my own, It only cost me 2 boxes of Reese's Peanut Butter cups

Looks killer, One question, did you get a nice tan going with that welder

No need for measurements Morpheus had a KMA winder on his pathy before he switched to an X, while he doesnt mention anything about moving the mounting plates, width wise it looks fantastic On his Pathy Now on his X

I do know that having to much droop will pull your cv apart, I can't remember who on here did it but he has pictures posted from a few years ago, While this can be limited, I'm just tossing it out there,

That may be so but Support our Vendors! Daddy Rim is NX4 on here

The hitch has saved my bacon a lot I have drug it across rocks numerous times saving my back bumper!

Man, that thread has some drama in it!

The grill makes it look like a lincoln SUV lol

Along with XPLORx4, I got a 14" LED bar for my bumper. Now I just need to get the stupid thing on the road

Oh it wasn't a dig on rocky2, the way I read what he types out just makes me laugh a little Good luck drew and post up pics when its done.

The rake is there because it is factory, Your disgust for the AC lift humors me every time I read

Charged the battery. Haven't driven it in a few months

I do not think so, These are the ones I used http://www.amazon.com/KYB-335015-GR-2-Strut/dp/B000C44C44/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1355979052&sr=1-1&keywords=KYB+335015+GR-2+Strut http://www.amazon.com/KYB-335016-GR-2-Strut/dp/B000CODES4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1355979162&sr=1-1&keywords=KYB+335016+GR-2+Strut One is Right and the other is left, I just can't remember what side 15 or 16 went to, dont mind the picture for 16, its wrong , what you will get is the same as 15 just mirrored.

If you want awesome customer service buy from Steevo, I don't know what you want, Light, Medium or Heavy Spring rates. Heavy front https://ruggedrockso...ts1tfsftk637qk6 Med Front https://ruggedrockso...ts1tfsftk637qk6 Med back https://ruggedrockso...ts1tfsftk637qk6 Light Front https://ruggedrockso...ts1tfsftk637qk6 And yea get struts from Amazon bearings/isolator from Nissan Not sure if they fixed it but watch the Part numbers on Rocky Road, I think they had them switched around at one time for the heavy and med. Not sure if that was ever corrected

Um, no where did I say I was talking about your SFD, I did not even mention SFD so don't put words in my post that aren't there.... Cheap strut compressors are made for small spring rate coils, such as stock. Not 3rd party lift coils which have a much larger rate. The compressors are cast and have thin "fingers" That will not hold up to a lot of forces. It can be done, it has been done by many on here however including me. I said have a shop do it because it is not considered safe practice, Other than actually building the strut, the re-installation is the reverse of removal, since with no weight on the old assembly, they are fully extended. With the new assembly the strut is in the same orientation, and fully extended. You do know you can use 2 bolts per side right? If your shop could not get the camber issue fixed with an adjustment of +-4 full inches then find another shop or the upper plate with the arrow is not pointing the correct way. Yes the locking hubs are a cover up for the increase of cv angle. However it doesn't matter what angle they are at when they aren't rotating.... and the only movement is in the vertical axis. Yes when 4wd is engaged and the hubs are locked they have more wear and tear then at a stock angle but for the 10-20 miles of trail riding it won't pose much of an issue, and hasn't to several members here including myself. Yes this is a discussion board

Lets not blow it completely out of proportion.... CV angles are alittle steeper, get hubs and that point is null. The front end wont be spinning 100% of the time so less wear and tear and better fuel mileage. Camber issues can be fixed very easily I would not worry, especially with the OME coils. People have been running the AC coils for years with no issues. For the install, rear is super easy, disconnect the rear sway bar and jack up the truck, let the rear end sag, but don't stretch the brake lines. Pull old coils out and put new ones in, jack rear up and re-install endlink Front, I would highly recommend having a shop build your struts, it is a super sketch thing to do by yourself with cheap compressors, It can be done though,( I put my own AC coils on,I built a little cage around the strut just in case) 3 bolts up top, two on the bottom, sway bar endlink, brake hose clip, and yank it out.

I have a dumb question I thought I could answer by looking around on the web but haven't found a definitive answer. On the 5100 series shocks does the shock body go on the top or on the bottom? I swear looking at pics online I see them both ways so I'm not sure if it matters.... Thanks

The Driver side front is really the only pain in the rear sensor to change. You have to be super skinny to go under the brake booster or find another way. The others will just unscrew with a wrench or sensor socket.

Yes the 67" model from TG is the correct length.

Hit mine too often...think she burned out