fleurys

I will be changing my u-joints shortly and wanted to have opinions on some that have used spicers instead of oem. I would like to know if they fit good, solid, etc.... the ones i'm looking at are the spicer 5-153x for the front and 5-1505x for the rear. oem is basically 3 times more expensive... is it worth it ?? Tks.

you will put the atf oil back in the trans using a small funnel that fits in the place where the dipstick was. This is how you put back trans oil in the transmission. S.

I have a 2001 too and I have been having the same noise coming from the same place. It's been going on since I have the path (about 2 years). It has not worsen or lessen and since I change my diff for an arb , all the bearings have been changed so I know it is not that (it was doing the noise before the change for the locker).... Since I was not changing gears, I did not change the pinion nor the pinion bearing.... now I wish I did.... All this to say that I fully think that you're right on with the pinion bearing.... I agree with 87pathy...don't do it yourself if you don't know how to set backlash etc...

My opinion... A winch is necessary when you open the trails (you're the first in line) or when you go alone (which is by no mean a good idea..) When you're stuck with buddies, a good tow strap will get you out of trouble. A locker is simply amazing... You will be going up places you never thought your pathy could... I vote locker big time.

I said that cause eventhough it's in the wd section, it says 96 on his profile..so it would be an r50...not a wd21...

have you had your brakes done lately ?? there's a connector on the front that connects to the disk assembly... verify if the connector is till attached or not cut... obviously, like any obd2 vehicle, knowing the exact code would help you alot.

The nissan reference number for the springs are 55020M ... this should help them

Wow....If your engine still works ok and does not start taking more oil, you might just be the most lucky pathfinder owner on this site.... I might just make you a sticker that says : "My plates are gone, Still going strong !"

hoo man.... i,m jealous.... I still have to do another year with my 32's...then I know what i'm I'll be working on....

i just looked, and it might be more difficult to disconnect the tcc solenoid than I thought... You actually need to flush the trans oil, and remove the transmission pan. Then you'll see 2 connectors (one for the oil temp, one for the tcc)... disconnect than reinstall pan, fill back the oil.... So maybe you're better off by re-looking your cables like judge said.....hope it works... S.

If the problem seems to be sitting in traffic while in gear, wouldn't this be more pointing at the torque converter clutch selenoid ?? I<m thinking the TCC is trying to lock and causing the idle to almost die... Also it would fit with the symptoms you have 1) WOT ok = torque converter lock not on 2) cruise ok but not anymore when try to accelerate = on cruise the torque converter will lock, when you accelerate it will unlock (or at least try).. An easy test would be to unplug the TCC to see if the problem goes away...if it does , then you know what to change... just a thought..

I suggest to replace your boots with thermoplastics ones... check here : rockford cv : http://www.rockfordcv.com/rcvboot.htm more than el cheapo rubber ones but should be good for a long time with them.

funny how things in life fits together....I saw the very same thing last weekend on my truck while doing my oil change and was almost sure that it was my steering bushings too.. I was presently running a test run without my skid plate , after cleaning everything , to find where exactly it was coming from.. I do remember the oil cooler was full of oil too, but frankly did not know , until now, that it was an oil cooler ! :-) ... it all makes sens now... Thanks !

if you plan on driving on public road, you'll probably end up in an accident! On snow, the front simply does not want to turn and on dry road, I can only imagine how you would turn and how long your cv would last.... bad idea...

Well, If water goes into the air box that high it's because something is not right because technically the only hole in it is where the sensor wire goes out. I left it there so that the water can drain once out. On the other hand if the water has come up to that level just by going in from the small hole in the bottom, it means I have been in a deep water hole for a freaking long time...and 2 more inches will give me plenty of time if you account the time it would take a little hole like that to fill the air box.... In my opinion, at least I have a choice now...I know what is going on before it's too late and my engine gets damaged.... I would rather kill the engine and be stuck with a drying task of the whole truck than killing it and be stuck in the middle of nowhere... My truck would stink the whole trip but at least I would be able to continue on my own power... As for 2 lines, since when i offroad a rarely pass 2.5 3k rpm in 4LO, the engine does not need as much air as it would normally at 5 or 6k...and frankly the space is very limited around the air box.... The good news is that I can easily unscrew the cap in the air box and I'm back with 2 air inlet in 1 minute when I,m out of the trail....so no restriction..actually the combination of my 2 x 1.5 gives better air intake that my single 2.5...

Well everyone that knows me a bit knows that I’m paranoid when it comes to water crossing with my truck… I’m just chicken sh*t for this because having a blown engine would probably means for me the end of the truck since I do not have the facility to change an engine neither the kind of money to invest on a repair of that magnitude on a 200Km truck… I’m not saying it’s not feasible, but only that this is my limit as far as repair costs on my vehicle… So my dilemma is that I wanted to be able to go in deeper water without sacrificing engine performance and did not wanted to drill in the body panels…. I opted to relocate or actually add an air intake that would be higher in the engine bay (copied on new4x4r !) but wanted to keep the original air intake for when I’m not offroading. The little extra comes from the fact that I wanted to be advised in some way if water reaches the air box. So I installed a little gizmo that lets the current pass when both of it’s contact points are submerged in water. When the water reaches a level in the air box which is about 2 inches shy of the air inlet (MAF), a buzzer and a red led will do their stuff and advise me that I’ll soon be in deeper trouble if I don’t get out of the water hole !! That part is what I needed to be confident when passing water holes… I know it may sound a little weird or unnecessary, but like I said, water is not my friend when it comes to my pathy…besides, this gizmo costs 30$ buck…. Now instead of completely blocking the original air intake hole in the air box, I opted to put a “screw cap” that I can put when I wheel and unscrew when I don’t. Since the new air inlet is 1.5 inch in diameter, I felt uncomfortable simply replacing the 2.5 inches original hole. So this way I have 2 X 1.5 inch holes when I don’t offroad and 1 X 1.5 inch when I do. The new air inlet is behind the engine about 2 inches lower than the top of the hood. I felt that this was the absolute maximum water height I was willing to go. I said to myself that if I’m in water this deep, I have bigger problems then water in the engine…(like water inside and the truck would probably start to float at that point)! Everything was made from the plumbing section at my local hardware store. As for the hose, I used Something that would resists the high heat of the engine bay..a radiator hose with some kind of of metal spring inside that will keep the diameter of the hose when curved. I also bought a universal gasket material kit in order to make a small gasket for the air box. The hole in the air box was blocked using a piece of hdpe plastic I had laying around. Urethane and silicone was used for water proofing and abs glue for plastic to plastic connections. Here are a few pictures with key steps but you can see the whole shebang here: http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/snorkel/?albumview=slideshow ps. A big thanks again to my friend martin who did the electrics and helped me across the board during this long day ! part of items needed: air box removed: What will block the original air box hole: Without the screw cap: With the screw cap: Hole in the air box: New air inlet done: Water sensor in: Everything plugged: Here's a video of the noise and light when water would go in. : https://photos.smugmug.com/Snorkel/i-7BHRVJX/0/0028b853/640/CIMG0768-640.mp4

hey , I'll give an answer even if I think that you should always educate yourself first by reading... You say you do no want to sacrifice road handling... Well... I have 2 arb lockers and driving with my rear locked all the time would definitely change the way my truck handles... it's simple really... You'll wear your tires probably unevenly because of all the bouncing or screeching you'll get from turns on asphalt. You cannot be locked all the time and expect everything to stay the same... if you really want to keep everything intact and be locked, then you have to use a selectable locker. Now if you are ready to live with the impacts than you either buy a spool or you can even weld the spider gears yourself (given you can weld)... don't kid yourself, locking the diff permanently WILL put more strain on your drivetrain period. now, i suggest you read a bit and get yourself your own opinion, cause in the end , you'll be the one living with your decision.

Definitely looks very good.... now I wanna see a full rear flex picture....! When you can, also, list what you have for the modifs (AC coils, Spacer ??...)

Holy cow....You're engine bay is cleaner than my interior !... You got yourself one hell of a deal mister... congrats !

reading more and more your comments and others, I would then say that your wheel bearing on the passenger is probably shot.... I know you like mud a bit....I suspect your bearing is full of it and has started to disintegrate .... it's worth a shot... :-)

how's your balljoints ?? they usually suffer alot from a lift....

bahhh, don't listen to him... just put 2 lockers, ac coils, 32's and rock crawl away !...

Jim at rock spyder 4x4 in markham, ON, recently did my link bushings and showed me how easy it is, with off course, the right tools... Here's summary 1) do one link at a time 2) torch the rubber bushing 3) use a zip gun to remove the sleeve 4) use a air sander to clean the inside of the link 5) use a peice of tubing, a socket and a press (or a vise) to insert the new bushing 6) re-install the link but do not tight the bolts..let very loose 7) once all bushing replaced, VERY IMPORTANT, drop the truck on ground, then proceed to tight all the links. some video of 1 link being done in 15 minutes.... amazing how a job can look easy when you have the right tools...(and experience) Torch: http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/?action=view&current=CIMG0574.flv zip them: http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/?action=view&current=CIMG0579.flv sandpaper the link: http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/?action=view&current=CIMG0581.flv insert the new bushing: http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/?action=view&current=CIMG0583.flv

I could not have said it better... Well the locker is in (pictures and story to come), but my diff drop brackets are not :-( I will explain later...need a bit of rest for now....

what ? !