MY1PATH

If balanced like that it can work for as long as you don't get another flat (then you patch the tube or replace it) So yes, given the proper tools you can also make it your backup to your backup.

I have been extremely happy with my nokian vatiiva MT. These 31's took me a few places somone anther pathy with 33's couldn't get to. I been in A little bit of mud & water they did well. Lots of gravel, hardpack, soft loam, Snow and they were great, great, great! Not so much on the ice, but who can without sutds? And not so good on slippery tread polished bare roots but agian who can? tread life has been decent so far (esp for an MT) and surprisingly they do not scream on the freeway, just a hum. Click 2 Enlarge

mud not so much, other offroad and mutiple off camber angles a bit more offten but the truth is I keep missing oportunites cuase of work, or regulations or maintence and so sady I have not seen as much trail as I would like to lately. Its funny becuse it seems my pathy got the most abuse when it was least prepared. It would be nice to have a piece of trail give way and slam my slider down on a bolder just to test it some time in the near future lol

It seems you wound the tensioner over the top instead of the bottom. as long as the tension is right I don't see a problem with that... grats on getting it done.

I think james just swaped the engine for its lower mileage and kept is tbi setup on top of it.

It still acts like I described tho right? becuse once that tab on the splines hits the stopper the spring rate increases right?

what part of your tach is broken? If you are decent with soldering you might be able to swap a part over. I desoldered a tach motor from another dash and soldered it into my circut board because the old one had seized.

uncc, If you ever sas I call dibs on your JC bars

those are JC (jim connor racing) t-bars. they are(to my knowledge) the worlds only 2-stage t-bar. In other words its like a progressive spring, one bar is plush and soaks up small bumps like if your on a washboard and the other bar has a much higher rate for those bigger hits.

also be very careful not to get anything on the needle shaft. This tiny pivot pin is so precise that even wd40, will slow it up. so watch your fingers, sweat, rain etc... only thing that should touch it is the needle.

I had mine off to do my dual steering box mod, still snug as new in there and I've had mine maybe 2 years....

thanks I'll use my "twist off" opener. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27539&pid=513475&st=0&&do=findComment&comment=513475

nunta plays that game too.

just swap the circut card that has the tach motor on it. then all your old lights and stuff stay the same.

those damned JC T-bars! I wish I could try some.... go about 3 full rotations on the ajusters, topmost in the picture, there is a seated nut and a jam nut on the tops side which are not shown. Then drive it over some speed bumps. Then try again. the exact number of rotations per amount of lift varies.

isn't that square dash to round dash? if both clusters are square the tach will work. if the newer one is round the tach internals will not fit. the tach motor itself can be desoldered and put on the older cluster but I think the pin for the needle is a differant size and height. so that might not work well either.

No my swap was wd21 to wd21. But I beilve nissan nut also has a guide for the 33spline rear ends too.

x2. I'm sure he got a little tangled up, He has been more than good buisness for many ppl (myself included). He also has a good rep on N4W too. hang in there,

I thought I had an rms leak.... after I did my cams and all the front end seals I had no more drips on my mat. not even from below the tranny/engine union. OIL was leaking out of my rear cam covers and running down the back of the block creating the exact illusion of a RMS leak.

1 little pipe is the vent line for the tranny, t-case and front diff combined. I also have my manual stering box tied into that vent as well. The wire I belive is cruise 2 Mixture heater, PO may have removed it. Its supposed heat the air and fuel mixture after the buterfly. Not really needed and if it breakes the pieces can damage your engine 3 donno 4 wont load 5 donno 6 I have a relay there but I don't know what it does.

when you did your axle seals (inner) did you pump fresh grease into the bearings? If not the outer seals (grease seals) will leak any oil the bearings were holding from the previous leak. I followed nissannut's guide when I did my disc swap. It was VERY straight foward. I also used the FSM to rebuild the parking brake drums inside. Overall my stopping is better but the biggest deal is that my drums felt useless over 80mph and the disc are pretty consitant @ all speeds.

I love my disc brakes, I never regret putting them on. but the R50 drums may be better than the older ones were. either way, things to look into for your situation. Fresh bleed get all the dirt and air out of the lines and before that some braided stainless lines will reduce some of your fade as well vs stock rubber lines. Also check your brake booster vacum check valve, it is responsible for consistant pedal feel and response when all other things are working normal. Lastly, maybe brake sooner and not as hard? these aren't race cars.

its been done before but all the ones I seen were 2wd and the struts went where the shafts would. mayhaps you can do better, have fun.

look up a company called Keycote. you'll have to buy from them directly because their products to working mechanics not to stores. anyway their ruberized undercoat is amazing. It dries really hard and druable 2 or 3 light coats a few minutes apart and your golden (heavy coats drip off cause it comes out so thick)