MY1PATH

I just spoke to him yesterday but I had no idea you guys were wanting to reach him. https://www.facebook.com/ExperimentalEngineering?fref=ts or VG33swap@vg30.com I'll let him know he may have some messages waiting.

Xterra booster showed up yesterday. I might give it a shot this weekend.

Don't buy Kobalt (Lowes) From frequent use I will get a flashing screen in under a week. (low battery alert) and they tend to loose their Zero. not re-zero but totally like random lost... how do I have a 1" gap that reads 3"... This is my 3rd one under warranty and I have been ignoring the flashing screen for months because it the battery still tests good. Genuine Mitutoyo, I've used for I don't know how long (years?) before changing batteries and never had any other issues.

The shocks and the control switch should still be available from Nissan. Just need to run wires and 12v power source. There is a full diagram in the 1994 FSM... http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/ Nope. The Rancho system uses compressed air. The pathfinder uses a 12v valving adjustment inside the shock.

Look over on Nissan4wheelers.com As said above fab is involved but I seem to recall folks using Toyota pit man arms for their solid axle crossover steering among other things...

So what ratio is in your R180 front diff?

I'm just jealous you have a QD32. I would love to build a QD32+turbo with a modified injection pump but That's not gonna happen where I live.

Grounding Turns the Light on. If you have no light you either have some oil pressure or its unplugged lol. Not really a fail safe design.

normal 12 Point socket or 12 point box wrench. The connector is the same one found on many factory ground leads, distributor "grounds" and temp sending units. You can also just crimp a female spade on the end of the wire and go with that, It will last longer than the original.

energy suspension has a verity listed by seat style (stepped or ground flat) and diameter. I slipped (with wd40) some 1/2" heater hose over the top and bottom of my wife's MOOG cargo coils on the '93. This fits the spring perch real snug after you put the weight of the vehicle on it. Next time mine has the springs that loose I will be doing the same.

R50 R50 WD21

I repeat, the mounting points on the carrier (housing) are different. With some fab skills you might make it work but it is not a direct fit.

The R50 Front diff carrier and gears will not fit any any vehicle other than an R50. Its mounting points are different and its gears are reverse cut.

It screws into the speed o gear at the T-case. It only needs to be hand tight but there are flats on the nut to break it loose with a wrench. It follows the frame rail forward and crosses over the bell housing, there are folded over metal tabs that go through the bell housing bolts that hold it in place and keep it from falling on the exhaust. The top end bolts to the firewall with two (10 mm hex cap?) screws.

my BRAND NEW vg33 (zero miles) short block came in a box that said Ford on it... But that's cause The Nissan Quest is a Ford Villager.

I had the wife's '93 headlight go out on us during a road trip last year. The bulb was good, the fuse was good the power just wasn't there. I pulled the switch out and popped the translucent white plastic cover off (you'll see all the copper leads running under it. Using some sand paper(I recommend 320-400 grit but didn't have any on the road) folded in half so both sides are rough I slid it under each lead pinched it down gently with my finger and pulled the sandpaper out. I did this a few times for each lead. I then carefully inspected the leads in each switch position to see if they were making good contact. (when they get dirty they heat up more under use and can bend away from the contact.) Using a small screwdriver as a fulcrum point I carefully bent one warped lead back down and left the others alone. Her lights have been great ever since. Still have not gotten around to putting relays on hers.

Not a whole lot. WD22 parts on the other hand... my buddy and I sat down one day and just looked at/measured parts between his Xterra and my Pathfinder. Most parts are really close if not the same... IIRC Everything below the body (except the leafs, parking brake and the cam-blot UCA's) are nearly an identical design...

BUMP

I recently had the opposite, my clutch would not let go... I think something sticking out was making it stick...

I had a mini catch can on top of my valve cover for my TBI vg30i. It was designed so that it drained back into the engine every time the engine was stopped. The engine had worn rings and and lots of blow-by so the filter element inside the can was always wet. The EGR is right next to the throttle body and that may be a factor. Make sure your EGR valve is not leaking, your tune, timing and injectors are good/clean and this can help reduce the amount of soot that comes from the EGR and mixes with the crank case vapors. Some staining inside of the throttle body is normal and acceptable so long as the throttle shaft turns freely and none of the vacuum ports get plugged up. "several times over the span of time that I have owned the truck " is this years? 100,000 miles? How often? Lots of cold driving will increase crankcase vapors. So will light weight or over used oil. On a side note for oil, I have switched all my vehicles over to Chevron Delo 10w30 (diesel oil). Since then all sounds of valve/lifter noise has ended and oil consumption has reduced or possibly gone away.

Its possible,FLAT roads no stops and constant 50-65 mph speeds (no faster) will make any pathfinder look much better on the gas bill. But don't let tire size and having the wrong speedo gear fool you. Bump your mileage (not speed) against a GPS on long drives. I made the same 1,000 mile road trip twice last month with the wife's stock pathy. Weather and gas stations were the same both times. The difference between 78 mph most the way and 70 mph most the way was on average 1.5 MPG (But our best tank was only 19.8 MPG...)

Common mistake, if you don't have any "dead pedal" at the top of your stroke extra fluid cannot return to the reservoir and eventually you experience what just happened. Once you correct the pedal adjustmen you can easily return the extra fluid to the reservoir by grabbing the end of the fork and pulling it towards the slave.

You'd be surprised, a few first gen xterra (wd22) parts swap too

Yeah I personally went down that road myself. Only it wasn't spark, it was an injector that would't close(much worse than your situation). 50 miles I had to drive like that before it was parked. It flooded the oil pan with fuel. Even though it was drained and flushed thoroughly the damage was already done... the engine chewed through its bearings and was done a year later. https://youtu.be/Dr5LOc7XCWc

1" Body Lift: I reached all my bolts from the bottom before using the jack... ... I imagine its even easier with a 2" or 3"