MY1PATH

I seem to vaugely remember one of my co-workers trying this and I think he had running issues without the extra sparks.

I just leave my hubs locked when its snow/ice out and pull the 4x4 lever back when i need it. I have not had the need to run studs or chains in the pathfinder and I have been thru some storms crossing mountain passes just fine. Chains are never required of 4x4's with agressive tires at any of the checkpoints arround here (just that you carry them) so I kept going until I was out of the pass. It also does just ok on black ice and hard packed snow. You may consider chaining for hard packed snow. Now screwing arround on un-maintained fire roads in the mountains I've used chains and needed them And for sheet ice, like from a thaw and refreeze thats a bit scary. The kind that keeps vechicle of all kinds from climbing a hill, or from stopping on the way down one even if they were only going 5mph... YES CHAIN UP! I'd say just keep your tires and buy a set of chains to keep handy. Speaking from experience in using both; Cable chains are light and go on the front pretty well to enhance cornering and braking on ice and hard packed surfaces but no so good for deeper snow. Chain Chains should only be used on the rear to avoid whacking a fender when turning. They climb well and they back out of snow banks well. And are good when the going gets deep.

BTW I'm not running an upgraded charging harness with my 180a and it does cook fuisble links from time to time. Like after I run the stereo for 8-10 hours and then start it up to go for a drive. Or foolishly charge two deep cycle welding batteries with it.

Yes turbo certainly heats the air but I think more of the heat has to do with the fact that heat is transferred from the exhaust side of the turbo housing and turbine to the intake side of the housing and turbine. Exhaust gas being a minimum of 700F in a turbo some of that heat is going to heat the intake charge.

IF you like the way stock T-bars feel than keep them. Lots of people run lifts just fine with them... I like mine. Cranking and re-indexing t-bars is essentially the same effect on your suspension feel as sliding spacers under your coil springs or a lift block under a leaf spring. It does not change spring rate.

Witdh is similar but not the same. I think the X- is wider. Mounting is completely different but you can fab mounts. Or I hope you can. Lots of other similarities, steering boxes, idler arms skid plates..... the pathy and the X (wd21 and wd22) are allot closer parts-wise than most people realize.

I never said it was a pathy running 240 amps. And no, the pathy wiring does not support more than ~90 amps but it does not need to. Hypothetically You could hook up a 1,000amp generator and not hurt a single wire because you are increasing the available amperage but you are not increasing the draw. A pair of 60watt headlights still draw ~10 Amps No matter what kind of alternator you have. When you install a big alternator the only thing you should think about upgrading is the wires from the alty to the battery (charging harness) a dead battery creates a demand higher than a stock alty can provide and so the bigger alty will heat up your charging circuit Stock charging circuit supports 120 amps for short durations. All new loads, Lights winces etc should be attached/relayed directly to the battery so your not increasing the draw across anything stock aside from the charging circut.

I run a 180 amp alty and I know a guy with a 240 amp ambulance alty. No belt slippage... Now the flex limit of a v-belt you use on your truck is a 2in diameter pulley and the grip to turn heavy resistance deteriorates quickly at 2.5" So any V-pulley over 2.5" (pathy is 3"?) will run whatever alty you throw in there.

A Snorkel IS a cold air intake. The Apollo filter housing does not fit all K&N CIA filters so If you already have one it may not work with the Apollo. The Spectre Performance filter is the way to go for sealed filter applications with snorkels Its much less bulky than the Apollo and opening it to clean the filter is much quicker.

Those are some LONG Radius arms! And I Like how low it sits. I guess radius arms are the only way to do a low sas.

Follow the red circles...

just remove the wires on the exhaust side lol. Fuel economy and emissions may suffer...the single spark heads are shaped different and put the single plug in a different location.

there's one of those threads on here too. You'll see a few 300k 400k pathy's on there. Mines at 256k and I may consider re-ringing it only because it has been over heated half a dozen times in the last 20 years and seems to be consuming oil. But it still runs strong and I know it would easily carry me in to the 300k range with nothing more than routine tune ups and oil changes.

Damn internet did not submit my post! Ok Much abreviated version: Have a freind help you, the diff is heavy and can be painful. Cut, torch or both the bushings out. Get 'energy suspension formula 5' and apply it to all mating surfaces of the new bushings. This will be a PITA. The bolts for the diff may not line up your first try so you will need to rotate the bushings little by little to get it all to line up. make sure you offset the holes in the right direction. Clean up the 'energy suspension formula 5' with WD40 and then rubbing alchol. If I remember I will find you a picture of the bushing locations.

DO IT, and Take pictures. I've considered putting a bench up front too.

yes you can and you would not need to slot the holes at all. (read thread later) But do you wanna pay someone to SHIP you a LHD box or are there some available in your area?

Diesels are lifeless without a turbo. Sure there's lots of torque but just not very much GO to go with it if it doesn't have a turbo.

drop the diff anymore than 1/2" and the flanges will rest on the t-bars. 3/8" (the bushings) drop it as low as possible without clearance issues with the t-bars.

My last t-belt stayed on for less than 5k. then I did a round tooth conversion with my cam-gears and sold the nearly new square tooth belt to someone else...

there are 4 Places to install the bushings. On what Nissan calls the 'front axle', which is the cross member that runs between your lower control arms, are 2 anchors for the front differential mounts. There is another cross member that runs directly behind the transmission pan. This cross member is suspended by a bushing on each end.

my stater went 22 years and 250 K before I re-built it. I hope I get another 200k out of it.

I did, let me see if I can find the thread... Here it is http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25541&view=findpost&p=469477 I'm still burning oil very slowly, I think its getting past the rings just as much as it was being sucked in by PCV. The engine has been overheated a few times So I'm sure the rings are tired.

My idler used to strike my frame too. Probem one; don't run a moog idler solution two; run oe style idle WITH idler brace. Ultimate solution; run a dummy steering box instead of an idler. theres not flexing the 1" shaft of the stering box, the arm would fail first. I Have the dummy box paired with a HOOHAA and I love it.

the hig dollar plugs last longer at the cost of a thinner spark. This thinner spark jumps the gap better via irdium or platunm metals thus requireing less energy to fire. The stock pathfinder igniton produces aprox 24,000 volts I think the 'need' for the low energy plug is non-existant. Run the cheaper V-powers and enjoi the fat spark.

the accesory locations are similar but not exact, different belt sizes and such but it should all fit. I personally want my pump and resivor on the same side as my box and my alty on the same side as my battery. So I think I will be adopting the r50 brackets and accesories...