MY1PATH

1) pathys are short and narrow wheelbase so it is best to use a mated T-case to save space and allow best rear drive line angles. I do not know if the tail housing comes off on a 2wd T5 tranny to bolt on a t-case but if I had my choice of t-case I would be an NP205 or NP208 or something of that series. These are Gear driven oem t-cases found on american brands that stand up to lots of abuse and one of those will bolt to a 5speed that also bolts to your 350. I'm not knocking the pathy TX10 but it is chain drive and the chain will stretch when lots of torque is applied to it. 3) narrow down the confusion,my opinion is to go with a radius arm sas (google it) is a simple yet effective way of getting ok flex and suspesion for a sas. Muti links are great but it gets complicated and gemoetry is what will probably confuse you especially when there is not allot off room below/arround the engine for the links. 5) no, its great, most auto pathy's came with lower gear ratio's (4.6 vs 4.3) in the axle anyway. 2) if your leaving the rear axle alone your front axle should have 4.6 gears in it. give or take 0.1 shouldn't hurt as long is 4wd is for trail use only. CHECK OUT RUGGED ROCKS OFFROAD I think they have an axle that accepts h233b pumpkins (same as your rear) then your ratios and differentials can be identical front and rear.

Its possible you may be running a little lean. Have you tried injector cleaner like "Gummout Regain"? The reason I say this is because of your High NOX and Low HC. If I'm correct, Increasing fuel reduces NOX and the cat reduces HC. So by nature most engines run a little rich to reduce NOX and rely on the cat to reduce the resulting HC. There is also, right next to the egr, what looks like a block off plate for a second EGR valve. This is actually a HOT EGR Diverter. when you pull the plate off you will find a steel tube welded to the inside. Its purpose is to direct the EGR into the maifold without creating a hot spot in the aluminum. Anyway, this diverter is almost never checked or thought of and is commonly clogged. I'm 3 for 3 on the ones I've checked so far. Best way to clean it is to set it on concrete and hit it wit a torch until the deposits smoke and glow a little; then pick it up with a pliers and smack it on the ground to get the @!*% out. once the clog is out you can clean it more throughly with barrel brushes and carb cleaner.

The ASCO plenum spacer comes with a High temp egr extension. you just cut your egr line in the middle and slide the ends into the hose. HA! you don't even have to deal with those rusted shut fittings lol just cut the pipe and pull the manifold.

Our intakes have extremely long runners as it is this creates a long chain of air in motion. The longer the runners the more you have to add to make a noticable difference... swirls or not... that is always up for debate.

I put the MOOG cargo coils on my wifes 93. they were not painted very well but other than that I really liked the progressive design. They feel great and her back window is not aimed at the ground anymore. I slid some Thick Wall (3/4"ID?) rubber hose over the top and bottom coil in addition to leaving the factory isolators in place. This gave just about 1/2" of lift but is not really noticable...

For x-mass fixed up the wifes 93 pathy stereo... threw out the factory deck, both factory amps and all the speakers Got her a Kenwood deck with USB interface and 4 alpine s-type speakers. We are both very happy with the sound.

Well Its been several months with zero issues So I did my final wrap up of the wire harness so its all weatherproof. The MPFI trucks have a section notched out for the #6 plug so trimmed the seam on the rain tray for easier access to the #6 spark plug and the vacuum hose for the FPR. I notched out about 3/4" where the normal notch is and about 3/8" along the entire length of the manifold Lastly, I removed the FPR vacuum solenoid and have noticed no differences or difficulties in startups so I will be leaving it off for simplicity.

you can pull the tx10 off the tranny while its on the vehicle. Pull off your t-bar cross member but leave your tranny supported the the tranny cross member. I actually pulled the tail housing off my new and old t-case when removing and installing to make it less awkward. I did not have a transmission jack and the thing weights 110 lbs. once bolted and sealed to the tranny I put the tail housing back on. I had also rebuilt my spare tx10 before I put it on and replaced all the seals... Input, rear output, front output, shift shaft etc...

well there are 3 wires for the tach, 2 power and one signal. If its a TBI tach it will run in TBI and MPFI trucks, If the wires are not there you just tap into the white wire that goes from the the coil resistor to the ECU. See FSM for Pin out. or trace wires... TBI resistor is in the fender wall boot MPFI resistor is in the loom below the coil by the fuel rail. IF its an MPFI tach it will only run off the tach signal given off by the ECU. See FSM for correct Pin number Weather or not the rest of the plugs for your lights and stuff fit I don't know. but if it doesn't match and you are clever you can just transplant the tach and hardwire it like I stated above.

I suspect the oil seal in the first place. Very rare does just the grease seal leak simply because grease it thicker so the seal has to be more worn. But if the oil seal is leaking then the oil gets into the bearing and thins out the grease to a point that it can leak...

yeah, I always park in 1st or reverse and I wound up replacing my handle bars and everything on them, some how the rest of the bike was ok when I backed the truck off of it.

I'm guilty of the same and I don't think it was a stupid risk only because I had done my homework on this very coil and knew it was safe. I just never got around to it. What I did get around to was an MSD 40th anniversary 6al paired with a 45,000 volt blaster high vibration coil 8222 I noticed no change In MPG but I did cool spark tricks like unplugging one wire and watch send a purple spider of electricity though a solid rubber radiator hose to find ground through the coolant. Friends loved watching the light show. I even suffered a starter-less ignition once... I turned the key to ON instead of ACC for the radio the engine was hot the box sent a spark to a closed CYL it shot down and it chugged to life, no stater and proceed to run over my motorcycle before I could stop it. MSD does warn that accidental cyl fire and crank motion can happen when the system system is hot but it never warned me t would start lol...

Nissan Ignition coils for the early VG ranged from 22-28,000 Volts which is pretty strong.... But the Coil he used is 40,000 volts (safe to open plug gaps 0.03 more OR run longer time between plug changes) but the best part is that it has higher primary resistance so no additional resistors are needed. (primary resistance LOWER than stock can damage stock Ignition modules unless a ballast resistor is used) Looks like the bolt pattern is the the same too, so really all he needs is to change the coil wire. HOW does the connector look inside after you unplug it? is it ovalized some?

Regardless of the numbers on the outside the contacts on the inside (swept by the rotor) always follow the same order. They just cross inside the cap.

I have a few of these sifters around and it seems common that the white plastic socket will crack allowing additional play.

There is also a mirror damper that most ppl don't know about. Its a little round piece of rubber that sits between the mirror and the windshield. The arm on Pathy mirrors have a little nub on them to hold it in place. This mirror damper is missing...

That's like saying the stock air filter will always work better than a new one. Eventually things wear out when they get old and magnaflow OE replacements are designed to meet or exceed OE standards for emissions.

There is a little Tube for the vent plug in the casting. BUT do not let that give you the impression that coolant Flows Through the manifold because It DOESN'T.

INstalled my SE seats, (driver only pictured) My old driver seat was pretty worn, the fabric was quite threadbare on the left ass cheek and the foam padding was crumbling out from the inside. The SE seats I installed are approximately the same age but MUCH BETTER shape. I just had to rebuild the Mechanism on the passenger seat because Sombody @ the JY cut the cable when taking them out for the ECU or possibly the seat rails.

I collected a round tooth timing creatures to replace the square ones in the wife's truck...

It just keeps going and going and going...

Next will be to put a bearing in place of the FWD LCA bushing. Those ones are REALLY spongy when the t-bars are off. if you focus your energy and wave your hand like a Jedi while saying "there is no white thread" ...

Nice install man. I Found another option; today I installed a 90a alty from my M30 in a pathfinder. Stock bracket no extra pieces, the plug is on the block side so plug it in first and then run the wire across the back.

Good job Harbinger!

you're an idiot. The thermal probe is not long enough to reach the cab and you cannot cut it and extend it because it is a hollow gas filled tube. A good controller should be shielded from the elements so it won't matter where you mount it.