tmoore4512

I just put one on mine, it was getting warmer than I liked...and it took care of the problem. You would be surprised at how much a $30 or $40 cooler from your local parts house will help. Hope it works out for you bro!

I did not mean that as gospel...just what I had been told by several "alignment" guys. I don't see it as an issue that WOULD affect caster anyway. Just another ploy on the part of the money makers to keep trucks low...haha

Is 4x4parts the only other cats that manufacture aftermarket rear arms? I know Calmini makes their own, but daggum who can afford that junk. I have some schedule 80, 1 inch tubing behind my shed, I though about making some...and possibly moving the axle back a bit...

The Mile Marker hubs are great guys. Have not put too much strain on them just yet, but at least now I have 4WD in reverse, and it doesn't come and go when it pleases... And it cost quite a bit less than the Warn units.

Its late dude...my bad!

And again My1path takes the cake...we must have been typing at the same time...

I did that for a while, but man, I got tired of it...besides it was a cheap fix...

Dude, awesome job with a rattle can! I wish I had the skill...haha And man, I have searched high and low for a grille like that, with no luck. Must be VERY unique...

A coworker of mine has a SC'd Xterra that is freakin wicked. All he did was buy a superchips programmer or something and it will flat run, I would like to have the power his has....

You guys are hilarious!

I want to be cool like My1path and do a disc swap in the rear...but noooo....

Yea, just read your post on the dual boxes...Gotta find a junkyard that has the parts I need... Anyone thought about lowering the centerlink with some drop pitman arms from another vic that would work on the dual box system to help bring the steering back in closer to factory with cranked t bars? Wait did I say that already....man...need sleep.

You know, you are right. I guess it is simply the fact that I deal with so much confrontation at work, that I do not really want it when I am off... I need to tighten up, and go take care of business. I am going back in the morning... Gotta get my M14.5 bolts!

Oh man...maybe this will be the answer to my terrible steering issues...

Okay, forgot about caster... Caster is the tilting of the uppermost point of the steering axis either back or forward (when viewed from the side). A backwards tilt is positive caster and a forward tilt is negative. Caster influences (directional?) control of the steering but does not affect tire wear, or so I am told. Caster is affected by the vehicle height, therefore a body lift jacks it all up just as much as a suspension lift...according to what I have been told. Supposedly its important to keep the body at its designed height (never EVER lift your pathy! LOL). Overloading your pathfinder with guns, gear or beer, or a weak or sagging set of rear springs will affect caster. When the rear of the vehicle is lower than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a more positive caster. If the rear of the vehicle is higher than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a less positive caster. So a factory Pathfinder sits lower in the rear right? Maybe I should let some air outta my shocks...lol With too little positive caster, steering may be touchy at high speed and wheel return ability may be lessened when coming out of a turn. If one wheel has more positive caster than the other, that wheel will pull toward the center of the vehicle. This condition will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the least amount of positive caster. If I understand it correctly... Hope that helps some.

Camber is simply the tires leaning in or out if you are looking at it from the front with the wheels straight. Normal tires | | Camber issue / \ or \ / Basically the shims go behind the spindle to either push out the camber or pull it in (remove shims) like big shoe said. If you crank your bars, man it puts a heck of a lot of pressure on your tie rods and center link. I am in the middle of it right now...trying to find the proper bolts to get my camber right so my tires do not end up in the trash pile. And now, bump steer is my issue... Because when you crank your bars up, your tie rod angle is increased dramatically and thus when you hit a bump, it changes the geometry and the truck does wild things...talk about white knucklin the pathfinder! Either way, big shoe had it right on the money, find a cat who can hook you up, and is not lazy... I just wish we had the Firestone deal here...Costs me $50 every time I get mine done...OUCH.

Or just yank off your sway bars!!! And yea, I need some new axles. BAD. Wanna come help swap em out? Hahaha

All of my interior lights work...but I like the idea of having more light if I need it. I have messed around a bit with LED light bars, and used some RGB circuits (they change color at your command!)... Maybe a clear/red setup so if you really NEED to see using the clear (white light) would help...or to save your night vision, use the red... Interesting...

Yea man, I have o nly had the 33's on mine for a week or so, and am almost ready to go back to 31's. It is VERY rough on your steering system, and will wear out all that expensive stuff quickly. IFS is okay in it's own regard, and I love my truck don't get me wrong... SAS is where it is at! (One day maybe, but for now im good with what I have.) Check the used parts area, that is where I picked up my Calmini 3 inch lift. Was able to run 33's without the 3 inch body lift, but had minimal rubbing at full flex after the body was lifted. I guess it really depends on what you plan on doing with your finder, and ultimately what you want... Cost is always an issue, but you get what you pay for man.

Thanks bro, I am going to have to order some new ones...Went in Fastenal again, and raised hell...the manager asked me to leave. Oh well.