tmoore4512

Okay gotta give some input... I have the Calmini 3 inch system installed minus their t bars and shocks. Sure it lifts it up...but it puts the tie rods at such an angle that it is tough to align. AS of right now, I am waiting for some metric bolts to come in, so the alignment can be properly done. What I ran into was this: The torsion bars are cranked, the Calmini UCA's correct the ball joint angle issue, yes...however the addition of 33 inch tires and 4 inch offset wheels puts quite a strain on the front end. The camber was impossible to get right with the factory bolts. (Thus I ordered some longer ones.) My alignment guy also mentioned the tie-rod issue. With every bump, or flex of the IFS, the tie rod because of the crazy angle it is at pushes the caster out like crazy. Makes the vehicle prone to damage if you are making a turn, and hit it just right. Can jack it all up pretty quick style. When all is said and done, the camber will be corrected, but I fear that even with a hoohaa upgrade, the steering will still be the weakest link...(And I really don't do any wheeling, other than the remote fishing spot or two...) Anyone ever tried turning the inner tie rod upside down and using it that way? That would take some strain off of the linkage there...hmmm, when this CL wears out, and I do my TK1 upgrade, I may try that...

When I bought my pathfinder it had one factory and one aftermarket with a new boot... I am eventually either going to do a SAS or replace the bars. My steering geometry is out of whack, and the alignment guy swears it wont last long...I dunno... IMO I would replace them as a pair...

That is not too bad, probably re-manufactured though. I am trying to find some myself...the AZ where I work doesn't stock em, but can get em through the hub. So I am looking at 130 and change to do mine. I have done boot replacement in the past. Its a PITA in my opinion. On mine, I would rather replace, than re boot because I don't know how long they have been busted, and what kind of contaminants are inside...

Something else that suffers majorly when cranking the t-bars is the tie rods and centerlink. The angle is so extreme that it wears these parts out quickly. When I first bought my truck, the steering parts were wore out. I thought it was an alignment issue but it was not so. You may have to look at loose/worn parts...

You can shim it yourself like Simon suggested, but ultimately it needs to be properly aligned. I just had mine done, and it already needs to go back. Very frustrating, but the t-bars will sag, and everything changes when you put different wheels, bigger tires, etc on your truck. Good luck.

Just went to 33's today...honestly...it rides like a freakin hay wagon. I wish I would have gotten A/T tires instead of the M/T's. Looks good, but I can clearly feel a power loss...guess it is time to do gears...Or go back to 31's. Dont know about mileage yet...certainly cant help...

Yea you are right...but either way, its all about choosing the direction the individual wants to go... Just installed 33 12.50s on my Calmini lift...no BL yet...taking 4x4parts forever to ship it... Minor rubbing... Looks mean as hell!

Yea buddy, excellent picture! Gotta love the Pathfinder!!!

I bought my Calmini stuff second hand so no issues... Does what it says it does...but I would not pay full price by any means... The HB RC arms are where its at from what I have been told. If I had not gotten the Calmini stuff, I would have done the JGC coil swap and the HB RC UCAs.

I have tried the air shocks in the front...it worked, but was not for me. Got the concept from the Rancho 9000 setup... It was done on a full size GMC truck, the problem was simply that the camber changed so much that the tires wore out quickly. The way that I was able to achieve lift/lower with the shocks was to discard the factory lines that came with the shocks and run larger lines with a solenoid system. The truck was a field maintenance truck with a compressor mounted in the bed. The solenoid system was ran off of the compressor and controlled by a 2 way momentary switch on the dash... Keeping the lines on the shocks was tough, the pressure required to lift that heavy thing up was immense, and continually popped lines. Its a good idea I guess, just not sure that you will be able to fit a set in the small space our trucks have.

Not a whole lot of room, was going to do that in the beginning. I am waiting for a few days off to install the body lift, then I will tackle a front bumper...(time permitting.) At that point I will see if there is a way to nonchalantly mount the box in the front of the vic where it should be, but still be hidden from prying eyes...heheh

Gotta be honest, the improvement the harness itself made in the light output was more than I expected. I understand resistance and electrical theory etc, but even still I was and am amazed. Pretty cool, I will just leave my standard bulbs in for now...and focus on things that NEED help...like the REST of the truck!! LOL

My point exactly...I doubt there is one that will run on 12 volts...

Daggum inflation! LOL You like the knockoffs? I dont mind using em at all... I have used the sylvania junk, and I do not see how they can claim the performance gains...they just dont do what they say... I feel terrible when someone buys a set from AZ, I always tell them the truth, and my managers get angry... Oh well...if someone would have told me that, I would not have bought the ones that now reside in my tool box. I assume the PIAA's get blazing hot...factory housings will probably not handle the heat?

Hmmm this is a scary topic. My truck has a lot of miles, and I have no idea how she was treated before I got it. All these stories about blowing up tranny after tranny...geesh... I need to do mine, but even with a vast knowledge of this sort of thing, I lack experience with the nissan stuff...thus I have a fear of failure...both the transmission after the fact...and me failing period... LOL

Okay made a new harness and installed it...made a huge difference. I also picked up a premium reman 90 amp maxima alternator, because my use far exceeds the factory 70 amps... The electrical spaghetti has got to be fixed as well...its makin my OCD go nuts. Thanks for the info BTW

So I am going to do an oldskool trick...and rig up a 12v ultra high CFM fan to my intake....lol a ghetto turbo...

I bought some stuff from Canada and man it was spendy to UPS it to me in the USA. Wow. And we are on the same freaking continent. WTF

Well, got to pokin around and totally forgot that I had mounted the siren box in the driver side fender well... That changes everything...son of a... Where to move it...where to move it... Okay, fab a new bumper with a spot for it...geez, this shouldn't be so difficult.

I cannot recall the last time I even had my radio on...shoot and it even plays DVD's...(like I need that.) One of these days...

Body lift will give em all the room they want! (That is my hope, once mine is installed then the exhaust will be addressed.)

I have an air box just lying here in the shed...unless you are wanting to go something other than factory that is...

Yea, I agree that looks like futuristic interesting!

The grilles over the rear speakers come right off. And I dunno about the tweeters...they were disconnect din mine when I got it...one day I will eliminate the factory amp...