tmoore4512

Ryan, why not coat them yourself? Its what I do. $50 machine from Harbor Freight (they sell powder too, but I get mine from a supplier a few counties over. www.columbiacoatings.com) An old oven (can have an electronic timer or not. Mine does, is an old digital unit.) Compressor... Sandblasting equipment... (I built my blasting box...but HF sells smaller ones too.) Its a hell of a lot easier than people think. Almost all of my suspension stuff is coated...and it cost me a few hours of time and the powder...

Looks really good bro keep it up! As for a "master fabricator" .... Everyone starts somewhere...it looks like you got a GREAT start... It only gets better bro...

I must have missed something... I thought you said 5.38 was the ratio... AC has 5.57 for the 233... just not cheap. Either way, your red pathfinder is or was nice. The rear flexed like crazy... articulation city...

Sweet, looking forward to seeing your rig.... You could go with a spool in the 44, they can be had pretty cheap...or go Lincoln Locker baby!!! Weld that sucker up! With manual hubs it makes the possibility's endless!!!

So I was looking at the thread where you were talking about re doing the upper mounts with the same length as the lowers... "Bang for the broke" I believe? Anyway, is that the red Pathfinder that you refer to? I am actually looking at deleting the factory mounts and moving them inside the frame on a truss of sorts, I have seen Daver123's design and it looks promising. Rancho's copy. Caster copy. So when you are talking about gears, are you referring back to the 44, or the 233? If you have 5.38's for a 233 and plan on going with a 4.88 send me a PM, I will buy the 5.38's from you...bt if your like me you will hang on to em... understandable. Searched all the local yards, and drove 40 minutes due east to a few more with no luck on any 4.9 X gears... Will probably end up just running the stock 4.62 with a 4.56 in my 44.

I found an Xterra 3.3 today in a junk yard...already pulled...unknown miles due to the hell of a hit the truck took.... If it is reasonable I may go with it instead of a 4.3

Hey man, from one man who has done fiberglass to another, looks good! Keep it up, lets see some more pictures!

First off, Welcome to the forum bud! I used to live in Yakima, Grandview, Mabton and Nachez...certainly miss the NW!! Second, doing a solid swap is a lot of work, but if your patient you will have a sweet ride when your done. I have done several, and am in the process of gathering parts to do my WD21...this forum provides a lot of great information, but sometimes you have to weed through the BS to find the gems. If you are mechanically inclined, this will be nothing for you...and by your post about the track time, I assume you know your way around a tool box. I have yet to find a place that sells a 4.62 ratio for a Dana 44. Link me please? Dana axles (if they are un tampered with) are all pretty universal, and have a tag bolted onto the differential cover with the ratio stamped onto it. It will be on the left side of the diff cover (long tube side). You can also run the numbers that are stamped in the side of the tube online, and get all the information you will need...(if you can find the numbers that is.) According to the pro's you can run a gear ratio within 5% meaning that if your Pathfinder has the HG46 ratio (4.62) you can safely run a 4.56 ratio in your new Dana 44 front. I just recently did some serious digging to try and match ratio's with my current build... I spoke with tech's from Randy's R&P, and Yukon Gear, both of which advised that the above 5% threshold is true and correct. Closer is better, but sometimes you have to deal with what you have, especially if you are on a budget...(like me.) Keep us updated, and for the love of gravy take some pictures!

Tried and true.... Are you keeping the stock frame mounting locations or did you already cover that... What kind of shocks did you run up front? I realize it is a preference thing, but they look like the Fox air shocks. Did you have to adjust your caster (via cutting off the knuckles and repositioning them 5 degrees or whatever you chose and welding them back) ? Oh yea.... what gear ratio did you end up going with on the axles... I assume the rear h233b is a 4.62 gear? And you are putting the 44 under the rear which has r&p's readily available... What has me stopped at this point is simply gearing. I can go either 4.56 or 4.88 in my 44 front...but the rear (h233b) is stock at 4.62... an Xterra third member will go into it, and if I could source a r&p from one in the 4.90 gearing they are known to have then I would run 4.88's in the front... leaving me close enough to not worry about it.... Now the same could be said with the 4.62 and 4.56 combo but it is farther apart than I would like.... sorry, I am rambling.

X2 on the high idle. Every Nissan I have owned even the wife's 06 Altima does that... Come to think of it every vehicle I have owned has idled high at start up if from a cold start... Maybe not 1800 rpm, but it certainly idles up until it warms up As for Sea-foam... That stuff is wicked good. I run it every oil change, through the brake booster line... I went to the local Lowes and purchased a ice maker water line connection kit, (was like 10 bucks) and use the valve and some of the line along with an adapter to fit the booster line... That way you don't have to sit there and babysit it while it does its magic... Just start the truck, and slowly open the valve to where it draws the clear nectar of the gods out of the can and into the intake system via the booster lines vacuum... Sit back and let the white smoke billow...

Hey bro, just seen where you had replied back like 3 years ago...jk. How is your shoulder holding up? So I acquired a set of 80 model wagoneer axles, 44 and amc 20. I am not going to run the 20 rear, keeping the h233b axle if I can flippin match gear ratios. Unfortunately there is not many options for the 233b. Some automatic 4wd xterra's have a 4.90 gear ratio, and that third member will swap into my 233b as long as the spline count will match. With that said I could run a 4.88 in the 44 and the 4.90 in the 233b if I can find one, which will be well within the 1% theory of gear ratio's.... While on that topic, where did you get your 5.13 gears from? I would be willing to run a 5.13 if I had to... You must not be married... or you wouldn't have the money to take care of all of this...haha.

Mine will be available soon... bout to SAS the old leaky bastard...

Time to upgrade your lighting system.... The factory system is terrible... Let me see if I can find the link... Found it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4945

You making those for rear lower arms? Heavy duty... and cheaper than going with a heim or similar joint...

Very nice... The waggy rear 44 was 60 inches correct?

my 95 does the same thing. If its a cluster, so be it... Although I must say that I have never been able to put more than 19.6 gallons in my truck. That was running it completely empty... maybe it has that much slime in the tank...

Also, for what its worth, you wouldn't have to change axles... Drive shafts probably, but not axles. Blazers are driver side drop front just like our pathfinders. A good 4.3 with a carb rather than the fuel injected stuff, solid slushbox 350 turbo, or 700r4, with a np231 t case and you would be set... some assembly required... haha Did you get your truck fixed?

Hmmmm... now to find a wrecked x

....in 4wd....

If my memory serves me correctly, if you divide one ratio into the other, it shows the percentage, and as long as it is not too extreme, it should be no big deal... Thus 4.56 divided into 4.62 equals 1.013 which is just a hair over 1% difference... So 4.56 will be just fine in the front...

Okay guys here is a question while we are on topic of gears... My truck is geared at 4.62, and they don't make that gear (that I have found) for my Wagoneer 44... It goes from 456 to 488 for the 44.... Gah...

I am still in just need to know when and where to send funds, any color will be fine for me, since I can always rattle can it to the color my dash is...

Okay...problem solved. A check of the complete (under hood/dash) harness revealed that a number of connecters in reference to the starting system were badly corroded and when repaired fixed the intermittent relay chattering issue.... Turns out a second issue was found in reference to the Taurus electric fan, and its corresponding wiring.... I know, I know your wondering WTF does that have to do with the drainage issue and mind of its own etc... I have a temperature controlled relay setup that will turn the fan on when the temp meets the preset level....After I put the dash back in and started putting everything else back together I discovered that the thermostat system was fluttering the relay included in the wiring kit for the fan... A check of that harness revealed more corroded connections and once fixed, no more chatter....no more drainage...no more heart ache... Oh, and cleaning up the connections also fixed the turn signal/hazard issue... Thanks for the help guys...

No worries bro... I am seriously considering something off the wall crazy at this point.... Since I already plan on replacing the motor, and am not really interested in putting a weak motor BACK in... And the motor option that I would want to go with doesn't support the speedo cluster anyway... How about just stripping the truck of all wiring and putting only what is needed back in....with a custom dash... Maybe its just an angry rant...

I feel ya... I am in the process of deciding what to do about my tired motor... tons of GM stuff available around here, not interested in putting a low powered motor back in if I have to pull it out.... You going full width front?