BowTied

You have likely helped others that didn't know too - so a good post!

Not much to add, Pezzy and Ty coverd the later R50s well. I'll just expand a little: The Automode transfer case is identifiable by the selector switch below the radio vs. the shift lever for the standard tcase. The Automode in 2Hi 4Hi and 4Lo work just like the standard tcase but also has an automatic mode. This mode runs in 2wd until rear wheel slip is detected and then engages power to the front axle. This is accomplished by a wet clutch system inside the tcase - note the front axle is live all the time, no hubs to engage or worry about. I have seen the automode in all trim levels here though it is more common with Auto trans and in SE/LE models. Maintenance on the VQ - only thing I have done is to check the tightness on the power valve screws. A small percentage of automatic trans 3.5L trucks have engine failures due to the power valve screws comine loose. Not too hard to fix. I beleive the 03-04 3.5s are drive by wire throttle (anyone confirm this?) Pathfounder compared the maintenance to an 80s Chevy. Might be true on 3.3L, but the 3.5s I don't think so, though there are some trade-offs. The VQ3.5 has no distributor or spark plug wires, so no maintenance there. However the plugs are a little harder to get at and are expensive. The alternator is at the bottom of the engine bay vs the top for a chevy. The front disc brake rotors are big deal to remove and replace vs. a chevy rotor which comes off after removing the caliper bracket. Last point for now: If you are tall and used to north american vehciles, the pathfinder will seem small. I am only 6'1" and have little headroom. The rear hatch catches me in the forehead (good reason for a lift!!) and the seat bases are a little shorter than I would like. These rigs don't have a tilt steering wheel, they have a tilt steering column which compared to the tilt in an 80s or 90s Blazer is no where near as nice. However I find these shortcomings are made up for in reduce maintenance requirements, less sqeaks and rattles, and generally less drama to drive. HTH.

If you are talking about the two trans cooling lines that go to the radiator, well, I think every automatic trans has that in all vehicles for several decades. You may need to drive for a bit to see if the level has changed (follow the OM for proper checking procedure). I doubt you have hurt anything presuming you didn't get any dirt in the lines. I recommend double clamping the hoses you added since there won't be any barb in the line where you cut into it.

This might be of interest http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28264&st=0&p=534973&&do=findComment&comment=534973

very nice!

The idler pulley should spin freely - when turning it slowly you will feel it br a little grabby or inconsistent if it is going bad usually, not a smooth running feel. I wonder if it is the A/C clutch? See if it does that with the A/C or defrost and then not with everything off. Just trying to think of something that might be more intermittent...

Awesome!! A pathy in a tux. I'm sure you are well aware of the power valve screw issue, otherwise the VQ is a great engine! Congrats.

Thanks ModiFinder (btw, I can relate a little to your "about me" profile note) One thing I might add to my post above: my perspective was only from that of normally aspirated engines. Adding squeeze, boost or juice makes the oil much more critical.

If you ask 10 people what oil to run in (insert engine, vehicle here) you will get at least 10 opinions, likley more. They key thing is to buy something with a quality name behind it. Even more important is to buy a good filter. I really like K&N filters as they have the integrated nut that lets you use a standard socket to remove it instead of messing around with filter wrenches. Second to that is likely an OEM filter. Also highly rated are WIX. I have heard purolater are good, but not tried them myself. DINO vs Synthetic: Hands down synthetic is better oil. The science is out there. However, it is uncommon to hear of engines failing now-a-days like was the case 30+ years ago. In the 60s 100k miles was "good" as the oil and machining tolerances was poor. In recent years 200k miles is common even 250k miles is not unheard of. I run the Dino oil and have no problems, have for a couple of decades now, regularily with engines pushing 200k miles - invariably the rest of the vehicle has issues causing me to get rid of it before the engine fails. To me the cheif dawback of the Dino oil is more frequent oil changes. I however enjoy changing my oil. Others may find this a pita and so synthetic is a great choice. Personally I think Shell makes great oil. But since one can find many different opinions on what is best, I think the differences are measurable, but practically speaking are not that huge. Maybe a big deal if you intend to shoot for mileage much higher than common... One last thing, if buying discount oil, especially dino oil at walmart, check the back of the bottle. In the past Walmart has sold oil with lesser and/or older certifications than the same brand has elsewhere. This is how they can get their price down. I don;t know if they still do this, I won't shop at Walmart, the store pisses me off. Of interest, the W in 5W30 etc. refers to Winter. Mulitgrade oils have the first number as a reference to cold viscosity and the second to hot giving indication of how it might behave in your engine in the winter and summer. Check you owner's manual for grade based on the climate/temperature you live in. Should be a difference bewteen Arizona and Alaska. Someone mentioned ZDDP. THe gov't has been really backing down on the zinc for several years now. I have been reading a little bit on this since it is an issue for those trying to break in a new camshaft in older cars (muscle cars) that need this. The zinc content is needed at the tappet/cam interface to reduce wear during break-in. I have found that this is not as much of an issue for modern vehicles which tend to have roller cams/valvetrain. In any case, it is getting harder to find oils with usefull amounts of ZDDP, I think the desired level is 1200-1400ppm for the older engines. You may find this more often in oils meant for diesels like Rotella T 15w-40.

Just seeing this thread - man that sux!!! Hope your recovery is speedy - however the siatic thing can take a while to heal, don't rush it!! In the damage photos is the upper portion of the rearmost left side window pushed out a bit or is that my eyes playing tricks on me? I can't speak to insurance in MB for sure, but, based on my experience in ON: You don't have to accept the Insurance companies first offer. If you decide to fight their offer: Know the fair market of your vehicle, document it on paper (net links fade). This is your biggest evidence of value. Get closest matches possible, expand search area if needed. Have 5-10 examples. Ignore examples that match yours that are really low in value, you want to show how awesome yours is. Use dealer ads. Get all the insruance co's information first!! Get their adjuster's assesment with quotes. Take it to a body shop you trust for a second opinion. Used doors or whatever might lower to quote. The Ins Co might have overstated the value of repairs if it benefitted them to write it off. They may have devalued your vehcile based on condition (arbitrary assessment and valuation) and mau have done so to their favour. Knowledge is power. Realize the Ins Co factors in rental costs in their mind. Could be a bargaining chip for you possibly. If you can tolerate the delay, the company wants fast resolution. It costs them money to delay/have an open claim. They may strong arm you into settling (cut of rental, veiled threats of court action etc.) You may have an option to go to arbitration (costs you money though) if you think it is worth it. An independant appraiser working for you is needed if so. If you settle for a write off, be sure to get the money plus taxes. I can't stress the first two enough. In Ontario auto insurance is the root of all evil and will screw you if they can. I hope you have better experiences... Good luck, pm me if desired for more on how I fought the ins co and won vs a write off.

Glad to hear it! Was it hard to take it easy until the break-in mileage had lapsed?

Neat mod!

Remember, the CF clutches use special weights to gain a large part of their clamping force - which doesn't really actuate until higher RPMs making them great for daily driving and finessing the clutch and therefore should not be significantly harder on slave cylinders at all. I suspect the one you had was on its way out and the new clutch just finished it off. This may be in part the different clutch setting which changes where the piston sits on the seal - a somewhat common problem on some rear drum brake changes where the new shoes make the piston sit further into the wheel cylinder causing it to leak. I never had the problem of the slave cylinder going after the install of the CF II because my car has no slave cylinder - it is all mechanical linkage. The mechanical linkage however gives fantastic feedback. I was previously running a borg&beck style Hayes clutch and was terrible for clutch chatter when trying to finesse it (partly due to my gearing but ) mainly due to heavy clamping forces - my leg would get sore in stop and go traffic. The CF II is not a borg&beck but rather a diaphragm style much like the stock clutches and the release pressure is very similar. Not saying that CF is the absolute best, I am sure there lots of clutches out there that could do the job nicely. I will say a LOT of people use them on the strip and the street easily. I can't see why they wouldn't hold up well on the trail.

Yeah, the centerforce should be great - I have a centerforce II that holds just over 400ft.lbs in my almost 2 ton '69 chevelle. I would recommend the II to you without hesitation. The Centerforce I is supposed to be ~30% greater clamp force than stock, the II 60% more, and the DF about 90% more...or something like that. One thing to note with the DF: you must replace the disk and pressure plate as a matched set. You can order the disk separate for the I or the II. If the flywheel has not been resrufaced before, and there are not hot spots on it, it should be ok for a resurface.

I put Xterra rims on my '02 to use with winter tires, no problems.

If it was me I would just cut the harness and add in some extra wire that was the same gauge or better and make sure I did a quality solder and heat shrink job on the connections. Anyone know why that wouldn't work?

I have to second putting the IAT in the actual air intake, I think your engine will operate better. It might be splitting hairs, but... Ya, the hinge idea was a little wacked. I wasn't thinking of welding it in, just bolt or rivit, but stil it would be tedious to make it look nice. Putting the duct straight to the filter would be great if there was an air box in between to let water settle. It would give a colder air charge which would be better for power. But you'd need to move it all every time you wanted to do a water crossing.

I like your ingenuity! This reminds me of muscle car era Pontiac Ram air systems - if the hose was connected direct. I presume the IAT sensor will be between the cone filter and the TB? The hose routes easily enough I presume. You could put your plate on a hinge and have it bolt open or closed.... or put a power door lock actuator on it, lol. Ok, I got carried away there. Looks good!

Welcome! Where in Ontario are you?

I have no answers for you but am interested to hear the outcome....

Just a note, the body style changed part way through 99 - the 99.5 - 2004 look pretty similar. In 2001 the 3.5L came out and has more horsepower, so that might be something to consider.

What is the deal with the Warn studs breaking? Are they using poor quality studs or are they designed to fail early (like a shear pin) so you don't bust up CVs? Anyone every quiz warn on this?

Make sure to know if there is any valve interference when changing heads. Make sure you are referencing stock height head gaskets or know the difference. I have no idea if this is really necessary or not, but if information is lacking play it safe. g/l

good info!

Decide what is the most money you think you can afford for it. Offer him half of that. If he says no, say ok, thanks. Wait 2 days, go back and say you borred a few bucks from a friend and give <3/4 of what you'd pay> cash.